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Did it pass?
Well.... long story short, the test was abandoned on the grounds that the car wouldn't run enough for the test to take place.
It turns out the battery was knackered, so replaced it and went for another test. Result = fail on all brakes being below the required efficiency and the emissions were out too.

Halfords wanted £490 + VAT for new discs and pads all round, plus a brake fluid change. I laughed and after booking the (free) retest, I went and ordered the parts myself - £115 inc. VAT...

I bought a £4 bottle of jollop off Ebay to try to clean the cat through. Stuck it in the tank, then ran it at fast idle for 30 minutes.

The retest all went well - brakes all good and emissions were well under the max my car is allowed. Apart from a few advisories, its back on the road again - happy days. Oh, apart from the fact that now the alternator isn't charging for some reason.

Spend the morning over and under the thing cleaning connections and checking various voltages etc -all the signs are that the alternator is toast. New one on order...

Basically, a pretty typical MGF story lol
 

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Fitted a new alternator - now charging the battery with 13.79 volts.
 
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Took the sticky shite off the centre console using nail varnish remover and polished it up, came up piano black so will leave it as is. Washed the tonneau cover in the washing machine due to the 'dust' issue that's annoying me if that doesn't work then will cut out the liner completely...both cars tonneau's are moulting.
136658
 

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Got the TF 135 remapped by SAWS and I am very impressed, car now goes very well indeed and is much more exhilarating to drive, few minor burbles at 3K; I tried an unlocked ZandF rempped ECU beforehand but think it was goosed as it ran the front rad fan constantly although the tune was there, so had to return it to seller. Reckon there is nothing much in it between a mapped 135 and an OE '160' on the road.

Given how good the SAWS remap is on the 135 I am probably going to get my F mpi done too as even removing the hesitation programmed in (on all models) will be better.
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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Chap let me down on spraying my front bumper for my 75th so decided to refit as it is and will prolly take back off to get it done after the summer. also changed front drop links on it and also refitted plastic inner arch liners...(had not put them on due to expectation of bumper) so all back together now, just got to get it booked in for an MOT early next week...and hope it passes :p
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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Having now finished working on my 75th, I decided to start working on a 2006 TF I've had for the last year+ which I bought as a non runner with the head stripped off it. As I only wanted the red glass panelled softtop for my other 75th which is black, this wasn't an issue, but have decided to see if I can get the engine running before deciding what to do with the car.

Anyway, cleaned up the head whilst my brother tried fishing out what appeared to be a bit of black plastic out of the waterway in the block, turned out this small piece of plastic was about half of a rubber seal, which is probably why the head was off as there is evidence of oil in the water....cannot for life of us figure out where this large piece of rubber seal came from, but think it maybe the remains of the gasket where the early ones had the thermostat. Anyway, gave it all good clean down and fitted an head gasket. As whoever had it before me had not been careful with bolts, etc. thats as far as we got today as the rocker cover gasket is missing plus all the bolts for it. Will also need to get gaskets and bolts for inlet manifold which the decided to take apart completely....just wondering what else I'll find missing as I rebuild it :p
 

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Have a K&N cone induction kit on the F had it on for 16 year's wanted to fully enclose it but could not find a Rover airbox, can't be arsed to get rid of the lower airbox even though I have a TF box to go in so I bought a stainless steel cone filter heat/air shield from eBay and have to say it seems to have definitely improve things lower down the rev range, whilst not fully enclosed it's got to be better than no heat/air shield at all. Maybe.
 

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MGF vvc Poko
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136688


Tackling a two fold problem. The first is when you fill between a light unit and the bumper the paint cracks. Secondly I had some issues with leaks.

I have never played with carbon fibre before but I am attempting to skin it. The resin should make it watertight and when rubbed down and sprayed I am hoping my paint woes will be gone.

This doesn't strike me as too difficult a job but quite a time consuming one.
 

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Nothing as waiting for bits to arrive...I did however pick up some stainless M6x20 allen head bolts (50 pack) and washers (100 pack) from Screwfix (£7.68 and will have plenty spare :p ) to replace the missing rocker/cam cover bolts and also bought some flange head bolts so I can put the two halves (M8x30) of the inlet manifold together and then bolt back onto the head (M8x25) which cost me £6.60 for 10 of each, only need 5 for the manifold to head and 7 for the two halves of the inlet manifold so will have some spare there as well....and all for less than buying just 7 M8x30 bolts at Rimmers, Brown and Gammon, etc. :)
 

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MOT tomorrow on my 75th so changed both front wheels which had close to limit tread to some spare hairpin alloys I had hanging around with nearly new tyres on :)

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The ones I took off are the top two

136698
 

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Spent the day doing some more work on the silver TF I have, gasket kit arrived so fitted the rocker/cam cover, also had my brother come around who fitted timing belt, still need to refit the exhaust and inlet manifolds, but as bolts arrived that should be pretty straight forward :) ....Also found out by accident whoever removed the head had undone numerous bolts which didn't need to be undone, plus had for some reason (possibly thought they could access engine) tried to remove the panel where the petrol tank lives.....total nightmare trying to rebuild something someone else had dismantled
 

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Yesterday the TF..Bilt Hamber wax in the sills....worked really well..clear waxed the inner wheel arches after removing the mud build-up behind liners..wow(!) mud had dried out as don't drive it in the wet but was like a briquette...treated and sprayed surface rust on NS wheel arch...changed AP4 pads. Sprayed sub frames with ACF50 and floor pan with clear wax.

Today the F, Bilt Hamber UC on bottom of sills, underbody and wheel arches, ACF50'd the subframes. Oil and filter change.

Went for a good blat in both with roof down, weather is fantastic.
 

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Yesterday the TF..Bilt Hamber wax in the sills....worked really well..clear waxed the inner wheel arches after removing the mud build-up behind liners..wow(!) mud had dried out as don't drive it in the wet but was like a briquette...treated and sprayed surface rust on NS wheel arch...changed AP4 pads. Sprayed sub frames with ACF50 and floor pan with clear wax.

Today the F, Bilt Hamber UC on bottom of sills, underbody and wheel arches, ACF50'd the subframes. Oil and filter change.

Went for a good blat in both with roof down, weather is fantastic.
Good work, that should keep the old girl rust free for a while!
 
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Replaced Starter motor today.
I've been having problems with the starter motor fitted to my 1999 MGF VVC sometimes it would be difficult to get it to turn the engine over other times it was fine. Often when the engine was hot it would appear to loose power and you would need to let go the key and try again and then it would be fine (fingers crossed ). Just recently it started doing this when cold.
I managed to get a 2nd hand stater from ebay it was off an MG Zr 1.8 Bosch version. When it arrived I quickly checked it out cleaned and made sure it was OK it did notice that it had the 12 tooth gear fitted. Today after all the rain we have had I set to and changed it out very simple job just need double jointed hands at times to get to the top fixing especially the nut, I managed to do it just through the boot grill took about an hour all in.
The starter was as far as I know the original Lucas / Magneti version what an old design compared to the Bosch starter. The original was fitted with the 10 tooth gear but the 12 tooth fitted just fine and what a difference it turns over so easy now and starts very quickly.
All in all a job well worth doing If I'd known that the Lucas was such an old fashioned design then I would have changed it sooner.
 

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Pressure washed the moss on a few of my F's and TF's today, noticed my 1.6 TF has the drivers side rear sill rotting out...mind you, this is one which someone had cut loads of wiring off and so far I've not been able to get it to run so had been thinking of scrapping it...will have to check underside fully as I know the passenger side rear sill needed welding as well before a decision is made :(
 

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Starlight Silver MG TF 135
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Decided to remove air-intakes (for engine cooling and intake air) in rear wings to access sills, so that I could inspect and inject Waxoyl. I was nervous about bending 19-year-old plastic and scratching the surrounding paintwork, so used 2 "loyalty" cards as levers: see pic

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The cards were not strong enough, but a scraper did the job eventually.
I took pictures inside the sills on the opposite side and was pleased
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to find a little (Factory installed??!!) Waxy substance.
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I also cleaned out the "Mud-Trap" area at the back/bottom of the wheel arches. I found that a short length of garden hose pushed into an industrial vacuum cleaner nozzle, was very effective:
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Result below:
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I completed the job by covering the wheel-arch liner with transparent sticky-back plastic, bridging over the gap to the metalwork, and running about 8" up that metal and the plastic liner. Not sure if this is entirely practical, but I will test drive the results when I next decide to, or more likely get caught out in, the wet. The horse muck and cow deposits of Devon lanes are something I want to keep out of this mud-trap if at all possible.
Best wishes and thanks for the advice so far
John E
 
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