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In the Garage
MG TF
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Attempted to remove my cars water pump, the bolts were fine, but it seems stuck on the top locating dowel. :mad:
 

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1995 MGF Mpi
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836 Posts
I installed a new (used) ECU and 5AS unit, in the hopes that it will solve the F's starting issue, where it starts for only a split second and then dies and then takes 20 secs of cranking before it will start. I think (hope) the issue that there is a communication error between the 5AS unit and the ECU that is not keeping the fuel pump on once the ignition is in the on position. Fingers crossed.
 

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mg_tf
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182 Posts
Over the last few weeks I have been undertaking some preventative work on the drivetrain. Started by replacing the inner CV joints that didn’t get replaced when I replaced the outer joints a while ago. Whilst the drive shafts were out I refurbished them, removed rust, coat of etch primer and a coat of Matt black. Before the shafts went back in I replaced the diff seals and replaced the gearbox oil with fresh.

I also realised that one of the ball joints on the gear selector bracket had a small amount of play where it had become loose. Removed the gear selector crank arm from the gear selector shaft by driving out the split pin. Disconnected the selector cables and off it came. The ball joints are peened to the bracket so the only option is to either replace the whole crank arm or replace just the ball ends. I opted to replace just the ball ends with new 13mm ball ends with M8 thread. The old ball ends need to be removed. Once removed the crank arm was cleaned, etch primed and painted. Bought new gear selector cable ends to go with the new ball joints.

I also bought new gear selector cable ends for the gear stick end. These are a bit trickier to get to but can be done by removing the gearknob and gearstick gaiter surround. You then have to undo and remove the three bolts that hold the gearstick mechanism in place to get to the cable joints. I’ve never been too happy with the gear change, always felt a bit sloppy. I now realise why, one of the two brass bushes had broken and was not locating properly so could have been moving during gear changes. Picture showing the broken part on the left
136173

These parts are no longer available so I’m hoping to get some made. I have put together a drawing and sent it to a couple of places for a quote. Let you know how this works out.
 

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Took out the console tunnel on my 75th (the bit between the seats) which is hell of a time-consuming job as the centre console, T bar and rear arm rests have to be removed to take it out. All of this was done as I have to replace a snapped gear cable, thought it might be easier with the tunnel removed.

There was another reason for doing this as I had also decided to sort out the water leak on the drivers footwell so removed seat and then removed the absolutely sodden carpet and sound proofing then used a sponge to get the water out of the foot well, won’t have time to look at the gear cable until next weekend so it will give the carpets and sound proofing time to dry out, also giving me time to sort out where the water is coming in (door seal)

After that, replaced the rear bolt for the rear lower arm to compliance bush which someone had strangely removed when taking off the head on a TF I got, I’d bought it for the red hood a while back knowing the engine was apart but only when moving it recently realised the lower arm bolt was missing when the rear wheel decided to nearly hit the wheel arch ….was going to refit the head as in just fit and bolt down and then fit belts another day but as it was 4:30pm with the light failing I thought I look at fitting head and belts another day.

All this and didn't take a single picture :)
 

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mg_tf
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182 Posts
Over the last few weeks I have been undertaking some preventative work on the drivetrain. Started by replacing the inner CV joints that didn’t get replaced when I replaced the outer joints a while ago. Whilst the drive shafts were out I refurbished them, removed rust, coat of etch primer and a coat of Matt black. Before the shafts went back in I replaced the diff seals and replaced the gearbox oil with fresh.

I also realised that one of the ball joints on the gear selector bracket had a small amount of play where it had become loose. Removed the gear selector crank arm from the gear selector shaft by driving out the split pin. Disconnected the selector cables and off it came. The ball joints are peened to the bracket so the only option is to either replace the whole crank arm or replace just the ball ends. I opted to replace just the ball ends with new 13mm ball ends with M8 thread. The old ball ends need to be removed. Once removed the crank arm was cleaned, etch primed and painted. Bought new gear selector cable ends to go with the new ball joints.

I also bought new gear selector cable ends for the gear stick end. These are a bit trickier to get to but can be done by removing the gearknob and gearstick gaiter surround. You then have to undo and remove the three bolts that hold the gearstick mechanism in place to get to the cable joints. I’ve never been too happy with the gear change, always felt a bit sloppy. I now realise why, one of the two brass bushes had broken and was not locating properly so could have been moving during gear changes. Picture showing the broken part on the left View attachment 136173
These parts are no longer available so I’m hoping to get some made. I have put together a drawing and sent it to a couple of places for a quote. Let you know how this works out.
Received the new bushes, (below),and reassembled the gear selector mechanism making sure everything was lubricated. I even lubricated the gear selector cables by using a garden sprayer filled with a small amount of oil and the spray tube sealed around the outer sheath of the gear selector cables. By pressurising the sprayer, oil is pushed along the length of the cable. When it starts coming out the other end you know the cable is lubricated along its length.

I decided to use the original, unbroken bush in place of the ball joint and plastic bush at the back of the selector mechanism. The plastic bush and ball is a bit sloppy and replacing this with a proper metal bush eliminated that small amount of slop. The good news is that there is no modification required, the bush fits perfectly. This gives a much more solid feel to the mechanism with virtually no slack. It took a while to make sure that each gear was engaging properly without the weight at the bottom of the selector shaft hitting any part of the bodywork. This was a case of adjusting each of the cable ends in turn and checking that the position of the gearstick.

Not driven the car yet but the gear selector feels so much more positive and direct.

I was able to get the bushes made by someone I contacted on Ebay. Anyone interested, I can provide a link. I have also included the drawing of the bush if that helps anyone.


136197


136198
136200
 

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rover_75
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295 Posts
Received the new bushes, (below),and reassembled the gear selector mechanism making sure everything was lubricated. I even lubricated the gear selector cables by using a garden sprayer filled with a small amount of oil and the spray tube sealed around the outer sheath of the gear selector cables. By pressurising the sprayer, oil is pushed along the length of the cable. When it starts coming out the other end you know the cable is lubricated along its length.

I decided to use the original, unbroken bush in place of the ball joint and plastic bush at the back of the selector mechanism. The plastic bush and ball is a bit sloppy and replacing this with a proper metal bush eliminated that small amount of slop. The good news is that there is no modification required, the bush fits perfectly. This gives a much more solid feel to the mechanism with virtually no slack. It took a while to make sure that each gear was engaging properly without the weight at the bottom of the selector shaft hitting any part of the bodywork. This was a case of adjusting each of the cable ends in turn and checking that the position of the gearstick.

Not driven the car yet but the gear selector feels so much more positive and direct.

I was able to get the bushes made by someone I contacted on Ebay. Anyone interested, I can provide a link. I have also included the drawing of the bush if that helps anyone.


View attachment 136197

View attachment 136198 View attachment 136200
You could probably print those


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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rover_75
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Finally got round to fitting the heated rear window relay and switch in my 115, only for the bottom tab to fall off the glass


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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rover_75
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If you had a 3D printer you could most likely print them in a suitable plastic. The originals are a brass material and therefore I had these manufactured in CZ121 brass.
Their are some suitable filament you could use... was just a thought. Do you have an Bush on a STL, or other similar Cad file?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Removed both front brake pipes to get new ones made up and also changed the downpipe/flexy on my 160....luckily only had one stud shear so tapped that out and now has a spanking new bolt in its place :)
 

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Brother came around with his brake flairing tools tonight so new brakepipes fitted to the front of my TF but rebleading brakes will need to wait until Saturday at earliest...just too dark when I get home from work to do things outside with lamps :(
 

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Bled all four brakes on the 160, was damn cold doing it outside, but at least it was not raining today.
 

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You all done with those brakes now dert? Like you say, too cold to be lying under a car outside. ❄
 

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1995 MGF Mpi
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836 Posts
I finally got around to removing the tappets, looking for the noisy one(s).

I used these videos as a guide for inspecting/cleaning the tappets. I found two that I could take apart, so they got replaced, all the others were disassembled and cleaned.

 

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MGF vvc Poko
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774 Posts
I rewired my car stereo, I had borrowed the head unit and subwoofer for my other car but that gone now (fiat 20vt amazing driving experience but it was going to cost me my driving licence)

10" sub fits perfectly between the seats where a cubby used to be.
 

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I rewired my car stereo, I had borrowed the head unit and subwoofer for my other car but that gone now (fiat 20vt amazing driving experience but it was going to cost me my driving licence)

10" sub fits perfectly between the seats where a cubby used to be.
I've had a 20vt for the last 16years, great car..
 
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