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mg_zt_t
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Took TF out for fuel as it now all legal, on way back saw temp gauge really high, think pipe gone in engine bay but got an horrible feeling I may have cooked engine :(
Unless its been seriously overheated, you may be OK. Rectify leaking pipe or hose and watch things like a hawk. You may not have done any damage yet.
 

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Took my TF for it's MOT yesterday. Got a call, it's failed, faulty Lambda sensor. Went over and was chatting to the tester, known him for years. He explained it was as if there was a hole in the exhaust system and the readings were off the scale.

My TF has a TT exhaust so gases only come out of the RH tail pipe. I asked him if he blocked the LH? Why?

As the car was ticking over, I placed the refusal page over the RH pipe (blowing) and then the LH (sucking). He couldn't believe it. He put it back on the machine, blocked the LH pipe and she passed with flying colours!

No other advisories by the way.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Discussion Starter #3,223
Took my TF for it's MOT yesterday. Got a call, it's failed, faulty Lambda sensor. Went over and was chatting to the tester, known him for years. He explained it was as if there was a hole in the exhaust system and the readings were off the scale.

My TF has a TT exhaust so gases only come out of the RH tail pipe. I asked him if he blocked the LH? Why?

As the car was ticking over, I placed the refusal page over the RH pipe (blowing) and then the LH (sucking). He couldn't believe it. He put it back on the machine, blocked the LH pipe and she passed with flying colours!

No other advisories by the way.
That is an interesting observation. Proof positive that even those with extensive experience in the trade can learn something each working day. Nobody has seen it all.
 

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Today I removed the engine inspection cover whilst kneeling on the drivers seat with the roof up and looked for the offending water leak. It appears the leak is on the metal pipes in the engine bay and not the rubber ones. Just have to decide now if I break my very early TF to repair this one and my other one as I need an engine or look for some pipes on the bay of e

the hole is quite clear in this pic

 

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Today I removed the engine inspection cover whilst kneeling on the drivers seat with the roof up and looked for the offending water leak. It appears the leak is on the metal pipes in the engine bay and not the rubber ones. Just have to decide now if I break my very early TF to repair this one and my other one as I need an engine or look for some pipes on the bay of ehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWpwYsAeRDk&feature=youtu.be
From my point of view it is not worth to break a car because of one pipe which can be replaced....
 

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From my point of view it is not worth to break a car because of one pipe which can be replaced....
Just put new front rear subframe mounts and front arms on this one so will not be breaking it, my other TF has had a complete refurb of front subframe to include arms, bushes, brakes, etc. so not breaking that one, even though I've killed the engine.

Its my other TF (have 3) which I'm thinking of breaking, that has a cracked screen, iffy rear end wobble due to having been lowered which has killed the rear wheel bearings.

As it is, I can keep two on the road and have spares or spend more pennies and get three on the road :O
 

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mg_zt_t
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Discussion Starter #3,227 (Edited)
Today I removed the engine inspection cover whilst kneeling on the drivers seat with the roof up and looked for the offending water leak. It appears the leak is on the metal pipes in the engine bay and not the rubber ones. Just have to decide now if I break my very early TF to repair this one and my other one as I need an engine or look for some pipes on the bay of e
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWpwYsAeRDk&feature=youtu.be

the hole is quite clear in this pic

Check local breaker yards. I found a brand new genuine MG-Rover pipe on a Rover 75 1.8t in my favourite local car breaker yard. The one on the right on the picture below.

Those pipes are much the same on all K-Series cars with Thermostat in the usual location or even if like my MG ZT 1.8t, fitted with the PRT, that pipe looks to be a universal fit. Even one removed from an MG6 Engine I bought is near identical. That also has the PRT Thermostat:~

MG6 left, MG ZT 1.8t centre and Rover 75 right :~

 

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filled coolant system with anti-freeze (after fitting the engine coolant pipes) and took the car for a spin, first real drive since getting on the road last week and owning it for a year......Unfortunately I hadn't re clipped the wiring back up and so 15 miles from home the car just cut out. On inspection I found the lower half of engine harness wrapped around the drive shaft which had ripped the wires out of the crack-shaft sensor connection block, quick drop of gearbox into reverse and pushing it backwards allowed the release of the cables, arm down into inaccessible areas released the crack sensor connection, refitted cables and reconnected, engine fired up.

Apart from now having to sort the wiring out; bare cables and alternator lights on constant, the car drove really well and I was well impressed with it.

Moral of story, remember to reclip cables to water-pipes or suffer the consequences
 

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Jacked up car to inspect damage from yesterdays mishap (see post above) cables are in a sorry state as shown



Decided to remove engine bay harness, to see if there was any way to salvage/repair the cables, what a fun job that is!!

To make matters worse, when undoing the nut on the starter solenoid, instead of just undoing the casing of the solenoid cracked instead which resulted in the bolt which the nut fits onto coming out!

Beginning to feel like this TF is cursed :(
 

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You'll get there in the end! they are getting old now and depending how they have been kept, its remarkable how many are still about! My TF 160 was hardly a garage-kept, never out in the rain etc example of one. they have their challenges- but i have to say, my one is now my daily hack and preference to drive somewhere. They improve with use. That wiring harness looks salvageable, but i guess you have done it by now. id have been under there with a soldering iron and self-amalgamating tape as I'm a die-hard tight sod.
 

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Is no-one else doing anything with their MGF's / TF's?

Done some "botching" with epoxy metal the broken solenoid "live" connector on the TF, it worked, but just, clicks a lot and when it odes turn over it turns over very slowly so looks like a new starter/solenoid needed, but it was worth a try :) After the botch, as I had it started I took it for a spin in the sun, just glad I didn't stall when out :)
 

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Just been driving her- left Stornoway this morning at 7. Down through Lewis and Harris, saw deer and a Golden Eagle. Ferry to Uist then on to Benbecula.
Tomorrow a drive across Skye, through Fort William and Glen Coe. On to Glasgow.
First proper blast in ages. Car has been 'unhappy' for a while, but it's time to stop pussy-footing and Drive or Die.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Just been driving her- left Stornoway this morning at 7. Down through Lewis and Harris, saw deer and a Golden Eagle. Ferry to Uist then on to Benbecula.
Tomorrow a drive across Skye, through Fort William and Glen Coe. On to Glasgow.
First proper blast in ages. Car has been 'unhappy' for a while, but it's time to stop pussy-footing and Drive or Die.
That is a superb way to enjoy these cars within magnificent locations and wildlife.
 

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Is no-one else doing anything with their MGF's / TF's?
I'll bite - nothing anywhere near as exciting as your current trials - far more mundane.

I've been happily lurking here for a long while - having hopefully managed to make some sort of small contribution in the past given ownership of various MGR products - but have only very recently fallen in to stewardship of a Spectre TF 160. After barely a week and some 400 miles (we started well, but given recent rain, we're only at about 50% driving with roof down), we've got a surpsisingly good 37 and a bit MPG while pootling about.

Sorry, no photos of work in progress, but some optional extras include. . .

WET BOOT :( - Fortunately, there's plenty of help available on t'internet forums (know any good ones?;)). Our problem seems to be the quite common issue around the light clusters. I've removed both clusters, swapped the spongey bits to their opposite sides, flipped them over, applied a little mastic and grease and popped them back in. So far, so good.

Misaligned bootlid - squared up nicely with spannerwork and a little adjustment of the stops, but there's something wrong with the profile (vertical curve) on the passenger side of the lid - will have to revisit that at some point - probably with a bit of stick and some elbow grease.

Noisiest VVC mechs on any of the four VVC enginged cars we have had in our family's possession (curiously to me, these other three have been 143PS versions, this is our first 160 and have one good BRM with more mileage on the clock than the TF parked next to it for comparison). I'm not sure there's a solution to this and will have to do a bit of reading before embarking on any attempt at a fix.

Headlight unit filled with condensation - pulled off the caps and let the sun do its work for a couple of hours and all seems good, at least for now.

Radio packed in after 24 hours - not the biggest problem given the pointlesness of having a radio in a convertible in my opinion. (Mrs. disagrees - apparently, if it's getting a new head unit anyway, it may as well be an all singing and dancing Iphone this, bluetooth that). Easy enough swap with the standard ISO connectors in our MGRs.

Surprisingly little evidence of tinworm - it's lurking lightly on edges of pressed panels and such and I'm not sure if she's had paint in the past to conceal anything. I'll have to take some sort of prevetnative action at some point.

All in all, not bad for a 14 year old car . . . so far.
 

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I'll bite - nothing anywhere near as exciting as your current trials - far more mundane.
Quite a lot done there :)

Today I Took my TF for a spin.....solenoid has now failed completely so was glad I didn't stall - hopefully pick up new (second-hand) starter motor (with solenoid) tomorrow.

On returning home, took out glove box and replaced the heater resistor with a spare one I had repaired previously, so now have speeds 1,2,3 & 4 instead of just 3 & 4. just re-soldered in new speed controls resistors to the one removed ready to put into my F in a few days times and now off to fleabay now to order another set of resistors to solder into the one I'll take out of the F so I'll have another spare :)
 
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