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Had a small problem of a split in the sealer in the arches where the seat belt bolts go through on both rear arches. Cleaned and degreased both sides and stone chip painted. It was a job worth doing as I could check on the fuel filler pipe condition. It was good and got sprayed with acf50.
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Premium Member
ZS180, ZTT260, STR, MondeoMk3, FocusMk3
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673 Posts
I have not done the rear trailing arm bushes yet. The car is driving okay but the handling is not right :cry:
If anyone has advice on a garage around north Wales that'll do the job then very happy to receive it. I've no problem travelling to get a good job done but arranging a lift is difficult.

Anyway, onto the recently done job!

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Much better!
 

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mg_zt_t
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21,925 Posts
Over on the 75/ZT Facebook Groups there's Julian Anderson who specialises in 75/ZTs and is based in Conwy N. Wales.

He may be able to help. I believe he's on the 75/ZT Cl8ub website too as Jules.
 
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ZS180, ZTT260, STR, MondeoMk3, FocusMk3
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673 Posts
Cleaned and re-greased the bonnet latches. I have new Chinese-made ones to fit but didn't bother as the old ones were fine once cleaned up.
And fitted a Ctek quick-attach cable.
 

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ZS180, ZTT260, STR, MondeoMk3, FocusMk3
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673 Posts
What’s this?
As said above - it’s a direct charger connection to the battery for a Ctek trickle charger. No crocodile clips with this.

Really nice bit of kit the Ctek - charge the battery on the car and keep it topped up while the car isn’t being used much.
 

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ZS180, ZTT260, STR, MondeoMk3, FocusMk3
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673 Posts
Well, ffs..:
Automotive tire Wood Gas Automotive wheel system Auto part


The new Shaftec, MG-R boxed CV boots from Rimmers failed after a year and 1,600 miles. Both sides! This is the second new set to fail with under 12 months age and minimal mileage.

DMGRS commented that there seems to be a general problem with the rubber in gaiters generally at the moment, across all brands, and supplied one they have some confidence in. Let's hope they last a bit longer.
At least I was done much more quickly this time!

So this week I have done:
  • New outer CV boots again on both sides.
  • Treated surface rust on the front inner wings, repainted and undersealed.
    • That's why I was under the car to notice the CV boots - so caught them early.
  • Same under the bonnet too, for the chassis under the battery.
  • Fitted a new rust-free bracket for the battery and ECU.
  • Reassembled the inner wing liners with brand new screws and clips.
  • Fitted a new steering wheel - a monogram red-trimmed one.
    • The wheel itself is in good condition but it's clearly gotten very damp at some point as the alloy is corroded and the electrics are terrible. I had the horn going off intermittently at 9.30pm last night - not in my neighbour's good books I think.
 

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MG ZT, Rover 25
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5,872 Posts
Well, ffs..:
View attachment 137100

The new Shaftec, MG-R boxed CV boots from Rimmers failed after a year and 1,600 miles. Both sides! This is the second new set to fail with under 12 months age and minimal mileage.

….
Very disappointing, I dislike doing cv gaiters, so I feel your pain. I did the R25 summer 2020 with some universal gaiters from eBay. I hope they are good as it’s MOT time soon! I’ll see on my pre MOT check over..
 

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Rover Lifestyle
Rover 200 Rover 600
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13,054 Posts
Another MoT passed again with no advisories. Got it home and gave it a good coat of acf50 around the petrol tank and rear subframe.
Congratulations!
 

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ZS180, ZTT260, STR, MondeoMk3, FocusMk3
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673 Posts
Replaced the VIS again! Last time in 2019 with brand new units, but this time with 'Byron rebuilds'.

The symptoms I was looking to solve: at 3,000 RPM the car would sometime judder as power dropped then suddenly came back. I suspect this is because the balance motor was struggling and maybe pulling in too much electrical power. Byron said that the motor I returned shows evidence of pulling at least 2 amps - enough to burn out traces - so this might have impacted on the power going to things on the engine loom, like the fuel injectors.

When I replaced the balance valve I also gave the flap itself a bit of a file down to make sure it moves easily, though it didn't seem to have any real issue.

When I had to the motors out I found that the 'power' valves were not full closing, which I think explains poor low-RPM performance. I hadn't even really noticed this, just assumed the 171,000 miles were starting to show on the engine.

Results: I got a ZS 180 back :p
I've clearly been driving a ZS 130 !

Power from low-RPM is much improved and at 3,000 RPM, that smooth transition in power is back. I'd gotten so use to the 'thump'. Now the car simply continues to push and there is a gentle change in engine note as it kicks up.

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