[mogsman]

Had a small problem of a split in the sealer in the arches where the seat belt bolts go through on both rear arches. Cleaned and degreased both sides and stone chip painted. It was a job worth doing as I could check on the fuel filler pipe condition. It was good and got sprayed with acf50.

 

[nOw2]

I have not done the rear trailing arm bushes yet. The car is driving okay but the handling is not right
If anyone has advice on a garage around north Wales that'll do the job then very happy to receive it. I've no problem travelling to get a good job done but arranging a lift is difficult.

Anyway, onto the recently done job!

Much better!

 

[MGJohn]

Over on the 75/ZT Facebook Groups there's Julian Anderson who specialises in 75/ZTs and is based in Conwy N. Wales.

He may be able to help. I believe he's on the 75/ZT Cl8ub website too as Jules.

 

[nOw2]

Cleaned and re-greased the bonnet latches. I have new Chinese-made ones to fit but didn't bother as the old ones were fine once cleaned up.
And fitted a Ctek quick-attach cable.

 

[gnu]

...
And fitted a Ctek quick-attach cable.

What’s this?

 

[Roverlike]

What’s this?

Quick attach cable for C-tek battery charger/starter in case battery flattered ...

 

[nOw2]

What’s this?

As said above - it’s a direct charger connection to the battery for a Ctek trickle charger. No crocodile clips with this.

Really nice bit of kit the Ctek - charge the battery on the car and keep it topped up while the car isn’t being used much.

 

[nOw2]

Passed the MOT 🥳

Nothing except cosmetics done to it in the last year, so I'm happy with that.

 

[nOw2]

Well, ffs..:

The new Shaftec, MG-R boxed CV boots from Rimmers failed after a year and 1,600 miles. Both sides! This is the second new set to fail with under 12 months age and minimal mileage.

DMGRS commented that there seems to be a general problem with the rubber in gaiters generally at the moment, across all brands, and supplied one they have some confidence in. Let's hope they last a bit longer.
At least I was done much more quickly this time!

So this week I have done:

• New outer CV boots again on both sides.
• Treated surface rust on the front inner wings, repainted and undersealed.
  • That's why I was under the car to notice the CV boots - so caught them early.
• Same under the bonnet too, for the chassis under the battery.
• Fitted a new rust-free bracket for the battery and ECU.
• Reassembled the inner wing liners with brand new screws and clips.
• Fitted a new steering wheel - a monogram red-trimmed one.
  • The wheel itself is in good condition but it's clearly gotten very damp at some point as the alloy is corroded and the electrics are terrible. I had the horn going off intermittently at 9.30pm last night - not in my neighbour's good books I think.

 

[gnu]

Well, ffs..:
View attachment 137100

The new Shaftec, MG-R boxed CV boots from Rimmers failed after a year and 1,600 miles. Both sides! This is the second new set to fail with under 12 months age and minimal mileage.

….

Very disappointing, I dislike doing cv gaiters, so I feel your pain. I did the R25 summer 2020 with some universal gaiters from eBay. I hope they are good as it’s MOT time soon! I’ll see on my pre MOT check over..

 

[mogsman]

Another MoT passed again with no advisories. Got it home and gave it a good coat of acf50 around the petrol tank and rear subframe.

 

[Roverlike]

Another MoT passed again with no advisories. Got it home and gave it a good coat of acf50 around the petrol tank and rear subframe.

Congratulations!

 

[nOw2]

Replaced the VIS again! Last time in 2019 with brand new units, but this time with 'Byron rebuilds'.

The symptoms I was looking to solve: at 3,000 RPM the car would sometime judder as power dropped then suddenly came back. I suspect this is because the balance motor was struggling and maybe pulling in too much electrical power. Byron said that the motor I returned shows evidence of pulling at least 2 amps - enough to burn out traces - so this might have impacted on the power going to things on the engine loom, like the fuel injectors.

When I replaced the balance valve I also gave the flap itself a bit of a file down to make sure it moves easily, though it didn't seem to have any real issue.

When I had to the motors out I found that the 'power' valves were not full closing, which I think explains poor low-RPM performance. I hadn't even really noticed this, just assumed the 171,000 miles were starting to show on the engine.

Results: I got a ZS 180 back
I've clearly been driving a ZS 130 !

Power from low-RPM is much improved and at 3,000 RPM, that smooth transition in power is back. I'd gotten so use to the 'thump'. Now the car simply continues to push and there is a gentle change in engine note as it kicks up.

 

[nOw2]

Things are happening..

I finally decided to do the trailing arm bushes myself.

Started with replacing the trailing arm bushes, but several stuck/broken/snapped bolts and torn bushes later and I've done a fair bit of other work. So basically a refurb of the rear suspension in progress.

New bolts ready, some new bushes in, treatment for surface rust, repainting this weekend, trailing arm bushes to go in next, and hopefully reassembling and going back on the road next weekend.

 

[gnu]

Replaced the VIS again! Last time in 2019 with brand new units, but this time with 'Byron rebuilds'.
….

annoying to have to tackle the same job so quickly

 

[gnu]

Things are happening..

I finally decided to do the trailing arm bushes myself.

Started with replacing the trailing arm bushes, but several stuck/broken/snapped bolts and torn bushes later and I've done a fair bit of other work. So basically a refurb of the rear suspension in progress…

I’ve yet to do anything on the suspension on my ZT that I’ve had about 3 years now. Sounds a bit of a mare. Any more pics?

 

[nOw2]

I’ve yet to do anything on the suspension on my ZT that I’ve had about 3 years now. Sounds a bit of a mare. Any more pics?

Loads to come.

Those rear arms are solid, but not in the best of condition. I will have to replace them eventually but finding them difficult to source.

Even replacement bolts have been difficult to source, at least timely - one bolt RYG10031 was on such a long lead time from Xpart/Rimmers (two months) that I tried getting alternative Honda bolts (perfect in size and fit, but Honda used a 1.25mm thread against Rover's 1.5mm!), then got a generic high-tensile steel bolt, and then the correct bolt turned up early..

It has NOT been an easy job, I have lacked the experience and equipment to deal with bolts rusted solid inside bushes. I had some help on this one, fortunately. Weirdly, the passenger side is in much better condition. All the bolts came out with no fuss, and much less rust over all.

I will even have some ZT suspension pictures to come - I discovered the odd look of my ZTT260 is because it is fitted with 75v8 front springs! I have the replacements and saw that the 75 springs are NLA and quite rare now, so I'll resell them and hopefully make a 75v8 owner happy. I also have a refurb of the rear subframe to do on that car but considering taking it to a specialist for that.

 

[nOw2]

How it started:

Yes, the trigger to get me to finally do the job was the total failure of the trailing arm bush - though interestingly, the rubber part was SOLID (survived hammering the bush out). It was the metal bar that failed and it must have been failing for years. The passenger side bush looked awful, but again was SOLID - the arm itself even surviving being used to hammer the bush out of the arm.

The compensator adjustment bolt below. I was told this wouldn't come out by the garage. I removed it using a normal ratchet 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

However.. this is RYG10031: the middle bolt came off the passenger side easily. The bottom one is a correct-grade bolt I was going to use. The top one is the original RYG10031 stuck inside bush RGX100351, which we had to weld a nut on to undo then just cut out anyway.

Lots of bodywork prep and rust treatment while I had access. All solid (except that exhaust heatshield on the left).

Suspension components treated then primed.

Wire bushed (by hand, by drill attachment and by angle-grinder-death-spinner), then treated with Kurust, zinc primed, primed and painted black. Lots of layers.

Trailing arm bush location.

The easiest step was changing the bushes. I used a cheap bolt-based press off eBay. This was the first bush I've pressed out and in - I was sure it would be rusted in or otherwise stuck, but it just pressed out and in easily.

I haven't put the new trailing arm bushes in, yet.. but I do have the proper tool to do it.

 

[gnu]

Yes, that needed doing! Good work. I’ll have a careful look at mine in the spring.

 

[nOw2]

Getting there..

The new bushes are in, and the passenger side suspension is reassembled. The tool is useful, I wouldn't do this without it. Even for the last 2mm, for which I hammered in, I used the 'cup' for a perfect fit and to protect the bush itself.