All zs have the grille attached to the bonnet.

Mk1 and mk2 have different headlights, and a mk2 has a smoothed bootlid, it sounds to me like one of the cars you were looking at was a zr.

 

One was a ZT on a 04 plate. Grill wasn't attached to the bonnet. It did have the smoothed boot lid as you described. I couldn't tell the difference between its head lights and mine but to be honest I didn't look that closely.
Some were ZR's like you've said and they didn't have the grill attached to the bonnet. 2 were 180 saloons and going by what you've explained they were mk1's. Boot wasn't smoothed, dials weren't oval etc. But the door switch for the electric window had a different sized plug than mine which I thought was strange.
Still interesting in the facelift concept. Will see if I can check the net on what the difference is and why it's important.

 

Mk1 2001-2004

Mk2 2004-2005

 

Thanks for the clarification of the mk1 and 2. I really like the front end on the mk2. I wonder how hard it would be to mount a mk2 front end on a mark one.

 

Very easy, just change the bumper, headlamps and grill. A guy at work has a MK2 Rover 45 that has been fitted with a MK1 front - I expect this was to save cost as MK2 parts seem to fetch a bit of a premium.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll have a chat with the guys at the scrappy in the next couple of days. If they want silly money I'll probably not bother but if the price is right I can store the pieces for when I'm happy with the mechanical side of the car.

 

the alternator was towards the bottom of the block not by the cylinder head like mine is.

The position of the alternator depends on whether the car has air con fitted or not. In AC cars, the alternator is raised to may way for the AC compressor below.

 

And here I was thinking the AC was standard on these cars. Just goes to show how much I don't know. Must of been a lot of optional extras. So when you think about it. My car is how it is because that's how someone wanted it to be. So why get rid of something you had almost "tailor" made for you? Another example is my steering wheel. Mine has had quite a lot of wear. It's an authentic steering wheel but seems very basic compared to some of the others in the scrappy of the same year. There's a 2002 ZS 180 for example that has a pristine leather steering wheel that looks like it's just come out of the box. Scrappy said I could have it for £30. Scrappy's are a bit higher priced than I remember them. Was this another optional extra or is it standard on the 180's?

 

In my view that is expensive for a used steering wheel, ZS's came with a variety of steering wheels depending on spec, some plastic, and some leather, the ones worth looking for came in the R45, they had a leather sports wheel with the knobbled thumb grips, a few years back they were selling on ebay for £25 each brand new, they're still available from xpart @£175.

 

A picture of the R45 sports wheel.

 

That is the exact steering wheel that is in the 180. They told me £20 for non leather and £30 for leather. I couldn't spend £175 on one without fear of my wife stabbing me in the face with a spoon. She's already questioning why I've gone so far to save this car from the scrappy but the more I know about them the more I want to keep it for some reason. Should change my name to clueless enthusiast.

 

I wouldn't pay £175 for a new one either, I might consider £30 for a used one, but it would have to be absolutely immaculate, the problem is breakers know that some items are more desirable than others and price accordingly, another example is mk1 and 2 headlights, mk1's are sold for relatively few ££, mk2 units are about double, and often need the plastic covers restored.

 

There is a mk2 with a complete front end but the head light covers are very cloudy and dirty. One of the reasons I haven't jumped right in and bought it. They also have a ZT with a complete engine that I'm considering for a rebuild project. No idea if anything is wrong with it and neither do they. Suppose I can't rule out HGF. Anyway that's way off topic. Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. I'll probably get the steering wheel. It really does look in perfect condition. Mine kind of looks like a jack russell used it as a chew toy.

 

Sorry, just one more question. If I disconnect the steering wheel I'm not going to get a face full of airbag am I?

 

It should not trigger but its always safer to disconnect the battery for atleast 30 minutes before you play with airbags. I would maybe double that time, so disconnect the battery and go have a bacon sarnie and a cup of tea.

 

Disconnect the battery and leave for a bit (say 30mins) for the circuits to drain before starting. Otherwise yes; you do risk triggering the airbag if you cause the wrong short. If you are not sure, get a pro to fit it!

 

As above, when I've removed them I leave the battery disconnected for at least 30 mins before starting.

 

And I've never bothered disconnecting anything at all haha
Luck of the draw I guess

 

BOOM lol

 

I'll do that. Getting a face full of air bag from a non moving vehicle isn't very appealing.

 

I think the main risk is in plugging it back in but even with the battery disconnected make sure you don't put your face or hands in front of the airbag at any time, then you are sure to be safe! They are very dangerous if they do go off and you are too close. Also, don't use a hammer while you are near the airbags or pre-tensioners.

 

Everyone's being so careful and here I am sitting right in the drivers seat putting it all back together with the battery still in! Hahaha

 

Good thing it doesn't go off in that situation or all these dodgy under seat connectors that turn on the red SRS light would be causing explosions while people are driving and that would be nasty!

Still sensible to keep yourself out of the airbag's reach when playing.

The only nasty incidents I remember reading of where when using hammers!

 

If this has anyone intrested I'm selling an R45 wheel with thumbrests and audio controls.

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=599417

 

Note to self: stop bashing steering wheel with hammer.

 

The impact sensor is between the seats

 

...also...

When the airbag is off the car don't place it pad side down (if it goes off it'll launch itself). Likewise, don't put anything on the pad, again it'll become a projectile if it goes off.

All common sense really, disconnect the battery, allow the circuits time to drain, unbolt the bag from behind using a torx bit IIRC, carefully withdraw the bag, reach behind and unplug the yellow connector. Place the bag safely to one side pad side up. Chances of a missfire are incredibly remote, but better to be safe than sorry.

Disconnect the horn multiplug, make sure the wheel is upright & the road wheels are pointing straight forward, then undo the big nut in the middle. Withdraw the wheel, align the new one (important to put it back in exactly the same position as the one you took off, if it is one spline out on the column it'll annoy the hell out of you - driving straight with the steering wheel wonky!). Should replace the nut really, but i have always re-used the old one successfully, can use some thread lock if you are concerned. Plug in the horns, then the airbag, position the bag & bolt into place from behind.

 

I found a R45 at the scrappy and I'm going to pull the steering wheel out of that one. However it has a rover emblem in the center. Can I swap the whole pad or should I just change the emblem?
Also was there any model hatch back that had headrests in the back seats that are compatable with a ZS? And if there is, this part is really doubtful, did they make one that would match my ZS's patter scheme. Which is the half leather with the small black and blue check'ish pattern on the cloth. Probably the most common interior. I prefer the black and blue trim seats. Ahhh someday.

Ps. Thanks Scarlet for the walk through. It'll come in handy.

 

Can I swap the whole pad or should I just change the emblem?
Also was there any model hatch back that had headrests in the back seats that are compatable with a ZS?

yes, you can swap the whole airbag assembly over; the ZS airbag should be the same size and shape as the 45 one, and it should be the same connector for the airbag. I wouldn't try swapping the emblem over - it will be difficult to remove without damaging the casing.

Rear head restraints were available for the ZS in all fabric styles, but I am not sure how common they are - keep an eye on eBay and keep taking a look around breakers yards for some (make sure you get the plastic mounts/escutcheons and caps with them).

 

 

Use the airbag module/pad you already have, put it on your new wheel, simples

 

Thanks guys. I'm really glad they'll swap. I was pretty worried about the emblem swap. Now I can go buy the steering wheel!

With regards to the headrests. There is a ZT at the breakers that has the same seat pattern as mine. As a matter of fact I took the drivers seat out of it for my ZS. It's a saloon and has the rear head restraints. So as long as I removed the escutcheons and caps I should be able to install them in my ZS? I would just take the whole back seat but I'm aware that the saloon and the hatch rear seats are very different.

 

If you feel the top of your rear seats, then you will feel where the holes are to fit them. Take the measurements of these and then when you go to the scrappy, take measurements of the ZT ones. If they are the same, then you are a happy camper!

On a side note, If you notice another leather sports wheel from either a ZS of a 400/45 ccan you take a picture and send it to me with the price because I am looking for one as well but without radio controls. Or I will swap you my sports leather one with audio controls for yours without.

 

Thanks for the info. I'll measure them up. I'll also look for another sports wheel without audio controls. Like you that's the one I'm after. I'll see what I can find and let you know.