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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wonder if anyone can tell me if there are any drain holes in the sills other than the rubber bungs in the wheel arches. Yesterday I moved the car to the garage after having it outside for some time and several heavy showers and what seemed like an ocean of water was surfing in the sill. I first thought the door, as I've fitted soundproofing and maybe stopped any drain points. But no, with the door open and driving and slamming brakes on, a tidal wave of water leaped out the sill by the door hinge area.
As yet I haven't rolled about on the floor looking to see if any drain holes need unclogging and was hoping for some guidance as to if there are any?
 

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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, Julian, I will defy my age and roll about on the floor later today, routing these out. That's incredibly impressive to have a picture as well to point me in the right direction
 

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Starlight Silver MG TF 135
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Wonder if anyone can tell me if there are any drain holes in the sills other than the rubber bungs in the wheel arches. Yesterday I moved the car to the garage after having it outside for some time and several heavy showers and what seemed like an ocean of water was surfing in the sill. I first thought the door, as I've fitted soundproofing and maybe stopped any drain points. But no, with the door open and driving and slamming brakes on, a tidal wave of water leaped out the sill by the door hinge area.
As yet I haven't rolled about on the floor looking to see if any drain holes need unclogging and was hoping for some guidance as to if there are any?
As you appear to have a TF, you may find it useful to inspect the insides of the sills by removing the vents which feed air to the engine compartment:
Automotive parking light Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Grille

I used two old Tesco Loyalty cards and a scraper to gently lever one edge out far enough for fingers to continue gentle prising. You can then look forward along the whole length of the sill to asses corrosion and see daylight/torchlight though drain holes, or through the hole left with the bung removed from the front wheelarch. I think you have to remove the front wheel arch liner to get at that (front) bung. This was the view I photographed before Waxoyling. A small torch on a stick or pre-planning the removal of the aforementioned bung would have helped illumination, but you get the general idea.
Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Hood

Hope this helps. Your Post has reminded me that I must check that all my sill drain holes are open. I did check just after Waxoyl, but the last summer may have melted some of the excess, and Murpy's Law dictates that if so, it WILL have conspired to block the drains!
 

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Good photos and explanation as to removing the grills for inspection, however all the rust shown in my photos was below the horizontal shelf which on mine only had a little rust on the end of the drivers side one. . I can get Waxoil FOC from work (JCB et al use it as a lubricant) but I can testify how it runs in the heat, in the winter it lasts for a couple of months but in the summer its a totally different matter. What I sprayed on on Wednesday was virtually all gone when it was inspected by JCB yesterday. I don't think the black waxoil runs as much as the clear though, in the factory JCB use the black version but we are supplied with clear by the JCD dealership, the factory applied black is still there on the no contact areas. Dinitrol & 3M make one specifically for hot areas (up to 200c) but they have no creep for cavities or seams. I did research it for another car a couple of years ago and some brands don't run in the heat as much as others, still need to check the drain holes are clear though.
 

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Good photos and explanation as to removing the grills for inspection, however all the rust shown in my photos was below the horizontal shelf which on mine only had a little rust on the end of the drivers side one. . I can get Waxoil FOC from work (JCB et al use it as a lubricant) but I can testify how it runs in the heat, in the winter it lasts for a couple of months but in the summer its a totally different matter. What I sprayed on on Wednesday was virtually all gone when it was inspected by JCB yesterday. I don't think the black waxoil runs as much as the clear though, in the factory JCB use the black version but we are supplied with clear by the JCD dealership, the factory applied black is still there on the none contact areas. The photos show how the clear waxoil has dripped since Wednesday but the black waxoil is still giving good protection after three years Dinitrol & 3M make one specifically for hot areas (up to 200c) but they have no creep for cavities or seams. I did research it for another car a couple of years ago and some brands don't run in the heat as much as others, still need to check the drain holes are clear though.
 

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I use clear Waxoil on the whole car (not the black stuff that in my view does not stay flexible enough and can hide many sins). Within the doors, it has lasted for 20 years (I check periodically). On the underside, I check it once in a while with little touch-ups required sometimes. However, the car is garaged all year round and does say 150 miles a year :( (never in the rain).

Some fell on the garage floor during my last touch up and it sticks like glue and needs a scrapper to remove (but the garage temp is a constant 17 C).
 

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mg_tf
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I use clear Waxoil on the whole car (not the black stuff that in my view does not stay flexible enough and can hide many sins). Within the doors, it has lasted for 20 years (I check periodically). On the underside, I check it once in a while with little touch-ups required sometimes. However, the car is garaged all year round and does say 150 miles a year :( (never in the rain).

Some fell on the garage floor during my last touch up and it sticks like glue and needs a scrapper to remove (but the garage temp is a constant 17 C).
Thanks for the heads-up on looking along the sills. Yes, it seems the waxoyl has congregated in the drain holes and caused a blockage. Will have to use something to poke in the drain slots to clear them out. Another job on the list, but will soon be heading for the garage to miss the worst of the winter weather.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have found that the sills are blocked by waxoly and so will need to get something to clear them out with. Which I assume is why the water had filled the sill and was slooshed about. One more job on the list to do before I put the car in the garage for the winter, I'm thinking.
 
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