MG-Rover.org Forums banner
1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I took the TF on a little run yesterday and had her up to around 80-85 on the motorway. What I did think was that over 75 mph the feel was a little un-safe, wobbly, unsteady. But, I wondered if the cheapo tyres didn't help, or if the cars was simply getting old, a bit like me some-how?

On the video, Chris kindly put up about the guy driving around the Mediterranean, Grasse, and Nice, he mentioned he had low profile tyres on his MG-F 205.40 if I remember right. Now how would they differ to my cheap tyres, and would that improve my cars handling? Mine are NANKANG radial tubeless 215/40 86 XL thanks all any advice would be welcome. Oh! after thought, would getting the tracking/balance done again help any? If mine are crap guys, don't be put out not telling me, the seller changed them for me at the last minute, after sale. I did not expect 5 start tyres on it.
 

·
Registered
rover_25
Joined
·
367 Posts
if you loved your car, you would be putting the best tyres you can afford, go for michelin pilot sport 4, people with tf's rate toyo proxes but they're just another cheap budget tyre.

cant go wrong with Michelin conti or pirelli there expensive for a reason
 

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
517 Posts
Hello Richard again,
I have found that speeds up to 85mph on the motorway to be ‘interesting’, and not within my comfort zone - tried it on a French motorway as couple of years ago, and decided that around our speed limit speed was enough for me.
Could I ask you a basic question? Did you check your tyre pressures before this ‘testing run’?
All important! If you didn’t, then it might be worth ensuring the pressures are correct and see if you are more comfortable with it.
Its a bit confusing why you have Extra Load (XL) tyres on the car - ?
Also why low profile (40)? I’m not sure what the specified tyre sizes for your car - 1.6 ‘special’? - but my standard 135 has 50 profile on the back, and 55 on the fronts. I would be checking what the handbook specifies for yours. I would expect with 40 profile and XL that the ride is going to be harsher than it would be on mine, and mine in harsh!
Not sure if any of this helps.
Kind regards,
Austin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, I checked about a week ago, and not driven since so? So tell me Austin, if I changed to the make you suggested would I notice a difference? No mention on the balance or tracking, am I off coarse there?
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Synthetic rubber
 

·
In the Garage
MG TF
Joined
·
33,451 Posts
Whilst the tyres are the correct size for the rear they are not for the front. Some people report no issues with this others report that it can make the car more likely to tram line (depending on the road surface).

Have you checked the tyre pressures?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
if you loved your car, you would be putting the best tyres you can afford, go for michelin pilot sport 4, people with tf's rate toyo proxes but they're just another cheap budget tyre.

cant go wrong with Michelin conti or pirelli there expensive for a reason
What about the Yokohama he mentioned in the video Buddy? :love: Whats the difference in mine and Micheline apart from initial cost? Love an explanation I can understand, or an example YG. :unsure: Finally if you're still awake:sleep: what would be a good tyre for a TF with 16' wheels on it by chance YG. Richard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Should have asked this, what is a low profile tyre exactly. I know they are flatter, and sit low on the road, but?
 

·
In the Garage
MG TF
Joined
·
33,451 Posts
The tyre profile is the height of the sidewall (between the road and the wheel rim)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Chris T. So how should I decide what size and what tyre to buy? I see the Toyo come highly recommend, but what if I wanted a Michelin tyre, how would I know all about the sizes, and symbols please? Currently, all I know is the size is a 16' and not much else. Even if I knew the difference between a 205 and 215, or XL or other symbols, that would not really help me much? And could you suggest the tyre size I want on the back and front please?

Thanks Chris.
 

·
Registered
MG TF 135, Late 2003
Joined
·
59 Posts
Stick to the tyre sizes and pressures as given in the handbook and you wont go too far wrong.

The TF is known to be very sensitive and requires careful consideration of tyre make. There are several existing threads on this topic from which I gained my information before changing to Toyo Proxes TR1 (15") which I find excellent. And yes, they are XL on the rear.

When I first got my TF 18 months ago the driving stability at 70 was scary.
I changed all tyres to recommended size, had wheel alignment checked and replaced the front upper ball joints which were about ready to fail MoT anyway. Everything must be 'tight' underneath. I also kept a few extra Kg stored in the front end.

Stability improved enormously and I am now well satisfied with the set-up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Stick to the tyre sizes and pressures as given in the handbook and you wont go too far wrong.

The TF is known to be very sensitive and requires careful consideration of tyre make. There are several existing threads on this topic from which I gained my information before changing to Toyo Proxes TR1 (15") which I find excellent. And yes, they are XL on the rear.

When I first got my TF 18 months ago the driving stability at 70 was scary.
I changed all tyres to recommended size, had wheel alignment checked and replaced the front upper ball joints which were about ready to fail MoT anyway. Everything must be 'tight' underneath. I also kept a few extra Kg stored in the front end.

Stability improved enormously and I am now well satisfied with the set-up.
Thanks Martin. It looks like 195/45 R16 84V. FRONT. Then. 215/40 R16 82W. On the back, according to the MGTF manual. Trouble is its finding those sizes in a decent tyre. What did the ball joints set you back, I'm sure I've seen it done in repair/ book some time ago, so worth a look at all the repair work done over the years buddy?
 

·
In the Garage
MG TF
Joined
·
33,451 Posts
The TF is notoriously fickle when it comes to tyres especially so with the 16” wheels and cost and brand is no guide to compatibility. Indeed, even the OEM Goodyear Eagle GSD2s fitted to TF’s with 16” wheels had a spate of problems with rear inside tyre walls being shredded. This issue did seem to go away in time, and it wasn’t clear if there was a bad batch or Goodyear modified the subsequent tyres. Extra load tyres tend to be recommended as default on the TF for both 15” and 16” wheels, I think for differing reasons between the two wheel sizes. On a related note when Goodyear introduced the uprated GSD3s they were asked by MGR to keep production of the GSD2s going for the TF.
From March 2011 MG Motor issued this statement:
““The GSD2 Good Year tyre is the approved OE fitment to MGTF. This tyre (and NOT the GSD3) is still the only fully approved tyre for this vehicle.


Where the GSD2 is unavailable, MG Motor recommends either the Falken Ziex ZE912 or the Toyo Proxes TI-R as appropriate. MG Motor has conducted limited testing on these alternatives to the Good Year when fitted as a car set.


MG Motor currently has no data on extended tyre wear for these alternatives.

Technical details of tyres tested:-
Front – Falken Ziex 195/45 R16 80V I0123 Extra Load, country of manufacture - Thailand.
Rear - Falken Ziex 215/40 R16 88W I0123 Extra Load, country of manufacture - Thailand.

Front - Toyo Proxes T1-R 195/45 R16 80V PXT1-R-2 ANH3608, country of manufacture - Japan
Rear - Toyo Proxes T1-R 215/40 R16 88W PXT1-R-3 ANH3608, country of manufacture – Japan”
Around this time Toyo seemingly changed the compound of the Toyo T1-R’s when the production was moved away from Japan and in any case it seems the T1-R’s are no longer in production.
The Falken’s seem to be still in production, and I’ve only had good recommendations for these tyres from TF (and F) owners over the years.

However before condemning the tyres I would have the tracking checked, this needs to be done by someone who can do all four wheels at the same time and doesn’t use the data from the F for the TF.
 

·
Registered
MG TF 135, Late 2003
Joined
·
59 Posts
It might be worth spending a few quid getting a mechanic to check bushes/ball joints etc underneath first. Also have the wheel alignment checked if its not been done recently. Depending on those results then consider if a tyre change might be beneficial. After-all, your existing tyres are new I think, though not in the recommended size at the front.
In the meantime read up on some previous threads about peoples experience with tyre brands before deciding. Some should be avoided.
Spending some money wisely now will likely ensure you enjoy your motoring experience earlier!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Chris, Martin. I managed to find those Falkens Ziex at a fair price, but I will have the FOUR wheel alignment done first, on a TF date as suggested. Looking at loads of garages only a few do the four wheel job, but still not too far from me guys. Should I also have the tyres balanced at the same time, they don't have any lead on them at all? Thanks all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It might be worth spending a few quid getting a mechanic to check bushes/ball joints etc underneath first. Also have the wheel alignment checked if its not been done recently. Depending on those results then consider if a tyre change might be beneficial. After-all, your existing tyres are new I think, though not in the recommended size at the front.
In the meantime read up on some previous threads about peoples experience with tyre brands before deciding. Some should be avoided.
Spending some money wisely now will likely ensure you enjoy your motoring experience earlier!
 

·
Registered
'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
Joined
·
9,478 Posts
...Currently, all I know is the size is a 16' and not much else. Even if I knew the difference between a 205 and 215, or XL or other symbols, that would not really help me much?
Actually, I think that understanding the symbols and numbers on the tyre might in fact help you greatly:

The tyre that you have pictured is a 205/40 R16 86V XL.

205 = Section Width in millimetres; in other words the tyre width.

40 = Aspect Ratio; the ratio of the height of the sidewall expressed as a percentage of the section width. It does not give the tyre height directly - eg. the actual height of the sidewall on a 205/40 will be less than on a 215/40.

R = Radial Ply (as opposed to a Cross Ply, which you are not likely to find nowadays, and definitely would not want if you could find them!)

16 = Rim Bead Diameter in inches - the bead is the flat part of the rim that the inside diameter of the tyre sits on.

86V = Load and Speed rating for the tyre. Most tyre sites will tell you what the numbers designate. Suffice to say that you need a tyre whose ratings comfortably exceed the maximum weight and maximum possible speed for the car it is fitted to.

XL = Extra Load; this designation means the tyre has a thicker, stronger sidewall and are often intended for fitting to small vans. Whilst they will give a slightly harder ride, they do have the distinct advantage of being very much less likely to pop if you hit a pothole.
 

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
517 Posts
Hello Richard,
There is a school of thought - along the lines of ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it’. Now that you have covered some hundreds of miles on your tyres, then any abnormal wear should be starting to show. If it is, then yes get the alignment checked and adjusted as necessary ( following a prior thorough inspection for steering and suspension wear). If it isn’t, then personally I would leave well alone.
My advice would be based on the fact that as sophisticated as these alignment systems may be, the use of them is still in the hands of the operator - some are good, some?? How many of us have had wheel alignment altered only to find the steering wheel is then off centre for example - irrespective of ‘clamping’ it in the straight ahead position! In other words, why leave yourself in a potentially worse off situation if the tyres are wearing evenly?
Wheel balancing? Do you currently have any symptoms of wheel balance issues? By the way, you are not going to see any weights on (the outside) of these - they will be stuck on on the inside of the rims.
Kind regards,
Austin.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Not being an expect in any way, I'll try to explain the feeling. Doing a nice 70-75 took to overtake an another car, and on overtaking it felt as if they wheels tyres kinda got stuck, and then it wobbled, the steering wheel. I fancy I should be able to do 90mph without too much fuss on a decent road, like my own A1. Maybe I'm expecting too much for an older car, but she does want to go, and the revs are still quite low compared to what people talk about?
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top