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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I have tried to undo the crackshaft pulley nut by following the Haynes manual but even with a long torque rench I could not shift it. It is the L-series diesel T reg, am I correct in thinking these belts can last 80K miles?
Any advice, helpful tips much appreciated.
Cheers, Ian
 

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Yes 84,000 miles or X years (5/6/7 years?). Those pulley nuts are a PITA in my opinion. A new one is about £1.50 from a dealer.

I rounded mine off slightly, and can't get the correct torque setting on it, so I will take the car to a garage to have a new bolt fitted ant torqued properly.
 

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Suggest you have the bolt cracked off by a garage with an airgun and to have it tightened up again but not over tight - that should do the trick.

Got a local garage?
 

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Suggest you have the bolt cracked off by a garage with an airgun and to have it tightened up again but not over tight - that should do the trick.

Got a local garage?
Dave, the recommended torquing up procedure is 20Nm + 90 degrees. This is VERY tight. Would you say it can be done up less tight than this?
 

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In my view the Haynes manual torque figure is in error. The pulley nut on my 25 cracked undone using a normal breaker bar without too much trouble. To tighten up to the 20nm plus 90 degrees would have meant I would have had to have done it up a LOT tighter than that (and may well have even sheared the locking pin). 20nm plus about 20-30 degrees felt about 'right' to me.

Keith
 

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In my view the Haynes manual torque figure is in error. The pulley nut on my 25 cracked undone using a normal breaker bar without too much trouble. To tighten up to the 20nm plus 90 degrees would have meant I would have had to have done it up a LOT tighter than that (and may well have even sheared the locking pin). 20nm plus about 20-30 degrees felt about 'right' to me.

Keith
Great, that sounds like good advice Keith, thanks. I must admit thinking that the torque must be a good 150 lb/ft or more if following the guideline, a bit more than necessary to drive the alternator belt imo. Could even risk damaging the crank I suppose as well as the locking pin, if the threads stripped.

That torque figure is listed on the Rave CD as well, so seems like MG Rover made the mistake also.
 

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I didn't realise that torque figure was in Rave as well (I didn't check). My 25 had a replacement engine early in its life (not sure why) and its clear the Rover dealer did not tighten it up anywhere near that tight. In contrast had to use my very longest breaker bar when undoing the Volvo crank pulley and yet the tightening torque was very much less that the Rover recommendation. I'd be really interested to hear what the pros think (Dr Dave?).

Keith
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for advice

Hi, Thanks to everyone who has taken the time to reply. I have not done the job yet, but will have a go next holidays and post a reply then.
Cheers, Ian
 

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Hi i did my timing belt yesterday, piece of p**s took about 3 hours with a break for a cupa, as for tightening the crank pulley, i just tightened it with the addition of a long metal bar as far as it would go, seems good to me,
 

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In my view the Haynes manual torque figure is in error. The pulley nut on my 25 cracked undone using a normal breaker bar without too much trouble. To tighten up to the 20nm plus 90 degrees would have meant I would have had to have done it up a LOT tighter than that (and may well have even sheared the locking pin). 20nm plus about 20-30 degrees felt about 'right' to me.

Keith
Be wary of the figures above. My (new) bolt was done up to 20 Nm and 30 degrees and came off last weekend. Maybe it is fine on yours Keith but on mine the pulley almost went flying into the distance on the M3. Suggest doing it "very tight", and using some thread locking compound.

Those K series boys are going over 200Nm on theirs BTW.
 

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20Nm plus 30 degrees? That doesn't sound very tight at all Tim.

I myself wouldn't bother torquing it up - but I would wang it up tight with my air gun, with a spot of loctite on the threads.

I can see why people are worried about breaking off the locking pin.....
 

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As regards the torque to do it up, it is debatable. I did mine up to 20nm plus a good bit (not 90 degrees but at least 45) with the locking pin (drill!) in and a check after 1000 miles reveals all is well. Regarding undoing it, I posted elsewhere (can't remember where) my old-fashioned method of bolt removal - a tight fitting tool, either a combo spanner or a t-bar & socket, placed a few inches from the drive shaft and a quick flick of the ignition key and it is undone. This has worked on every car I have had to undo a crank pulley bolt or nut from without exception and I've done a few. This includes (as I have mentioned) an Audi one and believe me they are FT.
HTH
Pete
 
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