I'm not any sort of expert when it comes to the VVC system but would say check for unduly loud top end noise. There is an additional cambelt on the back of the head so check this was changed with the main cambelt. Otherwise the same considerations and cautions as looking at other TFs should apply. Good luck. A good 160 will certainly put a smile on your face

 

Notanumber, thanks for the advice, will give you a shout back once I see the car today.

 

Having had an F VVC and a TF 160, I can confirm they are fun to drive but to get the most from them you need to keep the revs up, the red line is 7200 RPM. The VVC mechanisms can rattle a bit and sound a bit like loose tappets but with regular oil changes the consensus is that they're very reliable. This is a car that will do nearly 140mph and 0 to 60 in under 7 seconds, drive it like you stole it and you won't be disappointed.

 

I've a 2002 160, as already mentioned check the vehicle as you would for any TF, front lower arms, the small sub frame mounts front and back and the lower (flat) parts of the sills front and back, the sills is not such as issue for welding as for the F as they are flat on the underside so you can just plate on top as a cheaper option than butting in and welding. Engine wise, again, as already mentioned the VVC mech can be noisy, but I couldn't tell you as my 160 and my 143 vvc mechs are both quiet. One thing I can say about the 160, I did not think there would be a noticeable difference in power and pick up over a 135 or the earlier 143, but I was seriously wrong, having a 120, 135, 143 and a 160, the 160 accelerates a lot faster even from low speeds in top gear and it is the only model I've ever managed to wheel spin without even trying.

 

Well. I saw the car today, he had receipt for cam shaft seals and they had the engine out with bills of 1500 . It ran very quietly with no noise from the VVC. I saw the belt driving it and there appeared to be no cover over this belt. They were done at 55000. The body had a few tints and scrapes which could be done. The drivers side front wing felt like it had a bad paint job. The discs were rusty. 67000 miles. Someone made a plastic weld on top of the door cards as a moat to hold the water leaking on the cheetahs on both doors. He was looking for 2350. I offered 1500, He then said 1800 would sell it. The underside sub frames looked good it was waxoiled. A fair amount of body work and the orange engine light was on, which really turned me off her. Any advice appreciated.

 

Carry on looking, if you haven’t found anything by the end of January and it is still available plug in a code reader and if it isn’t much of a problem offer 1300.

 

The TF 160 owner texted me today and asked what would my best offer be. I didn't reply as yet. Just watched Exhausted Video of that chap that bought an xPower Grey 160 with 90000mls and head gasket gone for £700. on ebay Noticed there is a cover over the VVC cam belt but it's missing from the 160 I saw. There are receipts for 1500 for cam belt seals and engine out to do it, which I thought strange. Any advice would be appreciated

 

Offering advice is difficult, and my experience points me to believe that cheap cars will often remain ‘cheap‘ cars, even after a lot of money and time has been spent on them. Their condition might still represent their cheapness. Having inspected it, you are now best equipped to make a decision whether price or condition is king with this car.
I would be going over in my mind whether I am actually interested in it or not -irrespective of price - and I think your answer is you are, but at a price. so price is king.
If it becomes available at a price which interests you, are you then going to be satisfied with its overall condition, once you have spent your time and money on it?
The buyer may be using your intended offer, as a means of debating with other potential buyers - ‘I’ve already turned down £x for it’.
If it were me, I would reverse the question, and ask the seller for his now absolute bottom price that he would accept for it. You can then say yes or no, and if no, ask him to let you know if his situation changes.
Of course all the above boils down to a buying on price principle.

 

Although I am a firm believer in buying cheap I also believe this one is not worth buying. My normal view is to buy a car that looks to be In good condition at a low enough price to cover any unexpected mechanical failures. This one needs bodywork and at a minimum a brake disc and pad change. Add on the cam belt guard and you have a fair bit to do especially if you need new tyres, that is too much work even for a £1500 car.
Last September I bought a 1.8 TF for £467, it had a faulty starter motor but I only wanted the engine so the bodywork was of no consequence. When I collected the car I found it to be immaculate apart from some rust bubbles on the sills. I sold the TT exhaust for £200 so for £267 I got an engine for £267 but I am left with a very good rolling body shell as well. I would pass on this one and look for another one without the signs of neglect.

 

In situations like this, I tend to go with my gut feel after inspecting the car.

There is no real science attached to this of course, but if you know a bit about cars and people, it does generally lead you to make the right decision.

I found the Seller chasing you a bit odd, but everyone has different ways of doing things I guess.

Your money, your decision - good luck.

 

Ian,
That 160 is still for sale, thought it would be gone. Have to think about it again now. If I was to buy the duty due on importing parts to here is mad because of Brexit, if I would work out a way to import parts. Rimmers are covering VAT and duty once you buy over 150 euro so that's a help.

 

If you have Pscan or access to PScan, I would run a PScan check on the engine. Unlike modern cars with very complex emission systems, an MGF engine light on should be relatively easy to sort out (without throwing the parts cannon at it).

With a bad paint job on one of the sills, I would check BOTH sills very carefully (and behind them).

My VVC mechanism is a bit noisy (my MGF VVC had since new in 1998 and is now at 64K miles) plus self-lubricating (a Mike Satur upgrade from 2002) so I would not worry to much about it unless it sounds that it is about to combust into millions of pieces - I have never heard of a VVC self-destructing (may have happened in one or two cases).

 

Julian thanks for the advice. Would this scanner work on the TF.

 

I assume any OBD2 scanner should work on a TF (I have an MGF which is not OBD2 compliant). Accessing any registered fault codes will start to help you identify faults.

 

What scanner works on the F? Some have a TF & an F do you need 2 different scanners then?
I have the F and going to look at the TF. Was hoping to get a scanner that would do both cars
Many thanks for advising me on this.

 

P Scan will do both the F and TF, the F wasn’t OBD 2 equipped until around 2000 with the introduction of the MEMS 3 ECU.

 

My F is year 2000, I took it that it has Mems 1.9. How do I check it?Might have MEMS 3

 

I see from the plates that it’s an Irish car (albeit a UK import from the high number on the plate) so presumably you’re located in Ireland like myself. Fs and TFs are pretty rare these days here and most have been scrapped, many unfortunately due to rust, others due to overheating and repeated head gasket issues that haven’t been rectified properly. It’s going fairly cheap so even if it does need some work you might be willing to put some money into it.

Engine light often an oxygen sensor or maybe HT leads or coils or plugs. Plug in an OBD scanner like P-scan as advised above.

Yes the 160 is the VVC model. Mine, which I’ve owned for 15 years, is quiet enough - a bit rattly when cold but then smooth when warmed up. The VVC engine is whinier than the normal k-series which itself has a distinctive whine when revved. That’s normal. VVC mechanism itself is durable and only requires a belt change when the cam belt is being replaced. I had a TF-135 and an F 1.8MPi (120) previously and there is a difference in power delivery especially at high revs as others have pointed out. I find the VVC behaves like a turbo at above 4,000 rpm - it really goes.

Other than head gasket failure, rust is now the big killer, and extensive rust is causing many to be scrapped, so I would pay a lot of attention to the underbody, even more than the engine, when inspecting.

Best of luck. They’re great fun.

 

Thanks for the advice Irish TF. I'm in Cork we have a Cars & Coffee 2nd Sun of the month in Little Island Costa Cork. Are you ever down here, would love to see the 160. My no is 087 2261501 if ever your down. I attach the photo of my F at the meet last Sun. It was the only MG so they are getting rare.

 

Lovely car - didn't realise you already have an F. Very unusual colour - alumina green? I had a 2001 MGF in Tahiti Blue going back 20+ years ago, my first MG so always have a soft spot for the Fs. I don't have the TF taxed and insured yet - planning to have it ready by June so would love to meet some time in the summer. I'm in Tipperary some weekends so maybe we could meet somewhere in the middle like Mitchelstown? I'll private message you.

 

Great looking forward to that. Ya Mitchelstown would be fine. I've a few jobs to get done with a few touch up pieces on the doors and a 4 wheel alignment. She's a bit iffy at high speeds like traction doesn't feel confident on the road.Must get 2 new Toyo's on the rear for the summer as well. What you think of the spots.