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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
does anyone have a pdf manual for the t-16 (turbo) engine. I will shortly have a rebuild on my hands and would like to know what size everything should be, also weights too but thats less important. Does anyone know how well in balance these engines were from the factory. I'm just curious to know, il find out for myself when i strip the unit ... after i've actually got it! judging by size the crank assembly should fit straight onto our balancer at work so i can get it perfect!

thanks in advance, Matt
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
its ok i have a copy from some1 else ta.

any one know about the balancing of the engines ?
 

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The standard balancing isn't bad, and you can't rev much higher due to the rev cut on the standard ECU and the small turbo, so it'll never be a rev happy screamer. Of course you can match the pistons and rods, and if you've got the kit you can balance the crank with the flywheel as a matched set too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
woah ... don't forget the clutch cover on that set either. Most people do, it's a valid (often out of balance) part of the system.
if the balancing is as good as a ford duratec then i won't touch it ... but i doubt that. the rods leave the factory within .25 grams of each other !!! crazy
i may consider lightening the flywheel as well. but that i will determine when i have a look at it.
what is the rev limiter set to ?
 

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I doubt the T series balencing is that good!
I think the limiter is set at 6500 or 6700 depending on which ECU you have, I'm not totally sure so some of the petrol heads will be along shortly to set me straight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i expect it was on par for the era, to be honest. i will however post my findings after i've got it apart and weighed etc. i should be able to get the rods overall in balance but also end to end, as i imagine that they're not so far out. i very much doubt i will take it to the rev limiter much anyways but it would give me peace of mind for trackdays etc to have a nice strong engine and gearbox combo... (on a budget) i wish i could afford some uprated conrods and pistons but alas no!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
no petrol heads yet ... ? :-(

need to rub some 10w40 on this thread for them to smell ! lol
 

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I doubt the T series balencing is that good!
I think the limiter is set at 6500 or 6700 depending on which ECU you have, I'm not totally sure so some of the petrol heads will be along shortly to set me straight.
Think the limiter is meant to kick in at 6500rpm, mine doesnt thoigh and has been known to go to 7500rpm

Edit : Doesnt sound to happy about it when it happens though
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
yeah, probably not advisable! lol

the engines we build are old ... but we set the rev limit of those at 6500. obviously the newer engines can take the stress better, but the life span of our engines is roughly 1500 miles!
 

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ther is a resister or diode somewhere on the mems that controls the rev limit. you could remove replace this if you found the right one.

std hydraulic lifters wont be any use over 7500 and tbh the cams and turbo will be well past their best by then.

uprated parts on a budget..
the mk1 820 turbo with an M series engine have stronger rod/piston combo.

rods are shorted and much thicher, also have an oil squirter in them (well a hole in the big end to spray oil out of). piston in turn are much taller to compensate. you would need to skim the top of the block to get the compression ratio back as it is lower in the old M.
you could use O series pistons instead, a few come up on ebay. but O rods are very short. O rods and pistons are too short for the T and too much will need to be removed from the block to get a decent compression.

if you went forged pistons on std rods, the rod limit seems to be iro 300bhp. not too bed, forged pistons iro £450-500.

add forged rods iro £700-1200 and you can have as much power as the turbo can supply.

Drew
 
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