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rover_75
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My offside had the famed suspension twang, so new top bearings were in order. I got mine from Rimmer Brothers for £14.13+vat each, part number: RNR100090.

I did the other side last night and took some pictures as I went. Sorry the quality is not so great, I was using my little garage camera and it's not always easy the right angle, especially while trying to be quick in the rain.


1. Pull the rubber grommit holding the ABS sensor cable in place away, use a screw driver to lever up the retaining clip holding the brake pipe in place and pull the pipe away from the bracket.



2. Undo the anti roll bar drop arm ball joint using a 15mm socket and 14 mm open ended spanner to stop the joint from spinning.



3. Move the anti roll bar drop arm to the back out of the way.



4. With a 15mm socket loosen, but do not remove the pinch bolt holding the hub carrier to the strut. This can be very tight and I've read reports of other people snapping this, so it might be a good idea to spray this bolt and the bottom of the strut with WD40 a few days before the operation.



5. Using a 15mm socket and 13mm spanner remove the nut and bolt from the lower ball joint pinch clamp.



6. Use a wedge (large screw driver, small screw driver etc) to pull the pinch clamp apart slightly. Also a good idea to spray some WD40 on this as the ball joint can seize in place.



7. Remove the ball joint from the clamp by moving the lower arm downwards. I used a block of wood on the lower arm and knocked it slightly with a rubber mallet. I found better access if I turned the steering wheel full lock towards the side I was working on, so working on the nearside I turned the lock fully left. If using the block of wood be careful not to catch or damage the CV joint boot. I have seen other reports, and the Haynes manual, where people used a chain attached to the lower arm and then used a big lever to pull the arm down.



8. Completely remove the bolt from the hub carrier to strut (as loosened in point 4) and using a rubber mallet tap the hub carrier downwards away from the strut. Be very careful here not to catch the hub, brake calliper or anything else on the CV joint boot or lower arm ball joint boot.



9. Once the hub has been removed from the strut, loosely rest the hub back on the lower arm ball joint and tie the hub up so it doesn't fall away and try and pull the driveshaft out. Not sure how likely that is on newer cars, but it's happened to me in the past. It's not a huge pressure, so a piece of string round the brake pipe was ok. If you work for HSE, don't do this as you'll wake up with nightmares.



10. At this point, using an 18mm spanner and allen key to stop the inner bit spinning, I loosened the strut top bolt, only enough to get the nut moving, and no more. This is quite tight and once it's off it's harder to hold the strut and spring down while trying to do this.



11. Using a deep 13mm socket undo the 3 strut to body retaining nuts inside the engine bay. When they're just about at the end of the thread reach in the wheel arch and hold the suspension unit in place with one hand while you finally remove the nuts. Then remove the suspension unit from the car, being careful not to catch it on anything.



12. Use spring compressors to compress the spring enough so that the top nut can be undone. On the second side I did I found it easier to put two of the compressors on the base of the spring retaining plate to better compress the spring. I did worry that it might bend the plate, but it didn't make a scratch, and it has the added benefit of keeping the spring in place too.



13. With the 18mm spanner and allen key, completely remove the top nut that was loosened in point 10 and remove the parts in this order - nut, washer, bearing plate, rubber thingy.



14. Use a screw driver to wedge the bearing off the retaining plate.



15. Fit the new bearing to the retaining plate.



16. Putting it all back together is pretty much the reverse of removal, although use some lubricant on the bottom of the strut, I used copper ease, but lithium grease, white grease, ky jelly etc would no doubt work just as well if that's your bag.



Off hand these are the torque wrench settings I can remember:

lower ball joint pinch nut and bolt : 33 lbs
Carrier to strut pinch bolt: 74 lbs
Suspension unit to body nuts: 16 lbs
Anti roll bar ball joint: 44 lbs

It's worth bearing in mind though I forget most things, so I will check these torque wrench settings later on. if you happen to use these settings before I do that and your wheel falls off, of you snap everything, sorry.


That's the way I did it anyway. Took maybe an hour and a half. Oh, I also jacked the car up and took the wheel off before I did all this, just in case you were wondering. I put the wheel back on and took it off the axle stands once I'd finished too, just for the sake of completeness you understand.
 

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rover_75_tourer
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mine is in the garage just now getting this done - he said it needed two new top struts and they were £50 each and took 5 hours to fit. I'm not paying so doesn't particularly matter but seems a bit naff to exaggerate.
 

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I had a real struggle to separate the bottom pinch joint on the hub carrier, so soaking in WD40 or Plus Gas is a must. In the end I left the strut on the hub carrier and just fiddled around with the spring compressors up inside the wheel arch, so possible to do the job without removing the strut completely, but it took ages, including a nasty moment when the spring compressor slipped down the coil spring - fortunately my fingers weren't nearby at the time or I'd be typing this with my nose :scary:
David
 

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rover_75
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi, so how would you describe the symptoms, as I think I may have the same problem?
Regs Ian
It's like a clonk, or a twang even when you turn the steering wheel and sometimes when you go over bumps. The way I diagnosed it as this was to jack up both front wheel of the car and then turn the steering wheel to the point where it clonks, then go and grab hold of the front springs in the wheel arch and turn the steering that way, if you feel a clonk, then that's your problem.

You could also put your hand on one of the springs with the car on the ground, and get someone else to turn the steering wheel, which would arguably be a lot simpler.




Nice how-to.

Do you mind if I add it to my hints & tips page?
Go for it, hopefully it will be of some use to others.
 

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rover_75
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This is what the gargage just told me Ive only had the car for a few days so am unsure if it is covered by the warranty?
 

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This is what the gargage just told me Ive only had the car for a few days so am unsure if it is covered by the warranty?
im guessing you bought the car without it being motd , unless you bought the car from an individual i would get it back to the dealer with garage report and say [HEY WHAT ABOUT THIS] flyer.:cus:
 

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Strut Top Mount as well as bearing

Hi all
My garage have said that I need this doing on the near side strut. They also say that it needs a top mounting as this may break when they change the bearing.
My questions are - should I ask them to replace the bearings on both sides? and does the bearing come with the mounting plate or is there a seperate part number?
Also - where's the best place to get both the bearing and mounting from as my garage say they can't source it from any of their suppliers?

many thanks
Keir
 

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does the bearing come with the mounting plate or is there a seperate part number?
Here's what come as separate parts. Sorry I don't have part numbers.



Also - where's the best place to get both the bearing and mounting from as my garage say they can't source it from any of their suppliers?
Rimmer Bros or any Xpart depot should be able to supply all these parts. Maybe your garage should jot Rimmer/Xpart in their book!

Unfortunately, the Rimmer website is the devil to make sense of. They've messed it up till the MG Rover section is unusable. See: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/

TC
 

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I have to replace the Suspension Strut Bearing and after searching the forum I came up with this how to.I thought I'd have to completely remove the Hub,but after reading this I see there's no need.So time and knuckles saved.Another positive result from the Forum.
 

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R75 Diesel.
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I have to replace the Suspension Strut Bearing and after searching the forum I came up with this how to.I thought I'd have to completely remove the Hub,but after reading this I see there's no need.So time and knuckles saved.Another positive result from the Forum.
Well then, give him some REP.
 
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