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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fellow Rover owners, need your advice on my wife's Streetwise (53 plate).
After suffering the tailgate wiring snap fault 2 months ago (many thanks) - the drivers door lock actuator now displays the following classic signs:
(1) Locks and unlocks quietly with the key, but mMakes a hideous grinding/whirring noise when locking/unlocking with remote fob. (2)The interior sill button doesn't appear to be connected when you try to unlock it from inside, but seems to lock it fine when sat inside when the door is shut.

I know its a common problem, but are the Streetwise actuators different from the 200 series? Can get a 200 model for @ £5 - other scrappy wants £40 for a genuine Streetwise. Any advice/info and top tips for changing this - greatly appreciated. Am engineering minded/capable on Rovers, so not put off from doing it myself - provided its the right diagnosis - or how much will this cost at a garage to replace - anyone know? Thanks
 

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Way over £100 at a dealer.

You would think it would get cheaper as demand for these parts rise.

If MGR hadn't been so tight they could have put 2 or 3 spares in with each car they sold.

:rofl:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, thanks for that - just been quoted £110 +VAT from Rimmers in Lincoln.
Any technical advice though? If they'd been built beefy enough to do the job in the first place - an accident repair place guy told me is because of a little plastic cam stud inside that snaps. If it had been made of the cheapest alloy they'd never fail! Still....search goes on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ricko,

Thanks for the advice. By the sound of it, that's the bit the accident repair bloke mentioned which breaks. Don't suppose you know if a post-2003 Rover 25 door lock will work? - there's loads in my local salvage place, otherwise a drive to Peterborough to collect a 'genuine' Streetwise one.

What feature's dont you get/work if the motor isn't a superlock variety?
Thanks.
If anyone else knows about compability - let me know, as I want to go and get the bits Friday.
Thanks all
 

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If it's not super-lock, the pins at the connector don't match. Super-lock has 3, non-SL has 2 (but only 1 is common between). As I don't think the unit is earthed directly, I assumed a non-SL version just wouldn't work (didn't test it though).

I'm sure a standard rover 25 will fit, but will still cost lots for a 2nd hand unit I think. Lowest quote I got was £80. Let me know where and how much if you go looking. I could still use one for the front passenger door on my streetwise...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ricko,

A scrappy in Sleaford offered me a motor, with 6 pins in the connector - for £5 if I removed it myself (didn't have tools in car! DAMN!).

Visiting the salvage monkeys tomorrow, if the 6-pin Rover 25 variety works, then i'll let you know ~ £25 to £40 is the 2 quotes i've had!

All the 200s/25's on ebay seem to have 6 pins after 2002, and some dealers point out to make sure its the correct type before buying.

Guess i'll just have to find out!
 

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The missus' 2004 ZR went a few weeks ago.
I got one posted up from MGMANIA UK on ebay....total cost of £30 and unit was almost brand new.
Stripped out old one and fitted new in under an hour....only hard part was trying to get the adhesive off my hands. (the stuff they use to stick the plastic sheet on between the door card and the door ) :eek:

Good luck anyway
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Barry,

Can you remember if the item was a 6-pin one? Im swayed to drive to distant scrappy in Cambridgeshire and get the pucker one off a Streetwise they're breaking, but then if a 25's will work - I save myself half a day and get it local!

Decisions, decisions!
 

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I still have the faulty one under my desk at work....I will check tomorrow and get back to you.
Is it just the pin configuration in the plug you are on about ? I remember there being two plugs to reconnect ?
 

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if it is same as the zr its an easy fix ,dismantle the lock and replace the broken plastic pin with a bolt through the outer case of the lock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Barry,

Send as many details as you can. I am off work Friday, so hope to ge tthis sorted before Saturday. If I dont have to go and get the Streetwise lock, so much better. A lot of the locks I have seen have a plastic 'socket' with 6 pins in it. This may be connected to a 'twin-out' style lead. One cable for the 'lock' and one for the 'superlock'. Need to check my wiring diagram CD at home later this morning. Any pictures of the duff lock and the repair - so much the better.

If this can be done without great effort - brilliant!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Chaps, found one at breakers yard - still not cheap. The motor has 2 leads coming out of it. The pre 2003 has a 6 pin socket (non superlock?).
MG ZR's are definitely compatible (according to Windleys breaKers) and later 25's are also.

Anyway, fitted now. F***ing lock guard metal plates were a swine to remove and that adhesive is like nothing on earth! Working a treat now - so how do I fix the broken one for next time? Barry- no news from you yet!

This site is brilliant-thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Chaps, found one at breakers yard - still not cheap. The motor has 2 leads coming out of it. The pre 2003 has a 6 pin socket (non superlock?).
MG ZR's are definitely compatible (according to Windleys breaKers) and later 25's are also.

Anyway, fitted now. F***ing lock guard metal plates were a swine to remove and that adhesive is like nothing on earth! Working a treat now - so how do I fix the broken one for next time? Barry- no news from you yet!

This site is brilliant-thanks!
 

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So there's extra leads for the drivers door side eh? I've got an '04 streetwise, and didn't come across any lock guard metal plates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ricko,
I discovered a large metal plate behind the driver's door handle ( to prevent it being pulled through from the outside I guess). Then a smaller right-angled metal plate to shield the key barrel. Both of these fastened onto the mounting bolts for the outer door handle assembly. There is also a metal right-angled section shielding the lock motor itself. This piece also acts as part of the window glass guide rail, so care must be taken re-installing it.
I'd been inside a Rover 200 door before to change the window lift assembly, so seeing these was a whole new suprise!
I now have the old motor assembly apart and have found the broken plastic pin and will repair it for next time!
 
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