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Rover 630TDi!? Theres a first.

How the hell did they come to the conclusion that they were built in Germany FFS? I hate people who think they know it all! :twak:
 

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Its like on Ebay. Every other 75 listed, says it was built by BMW, and thats why, unlike all PAST rovers, yes, including the P series, the 75 is the only decent Rover ever. And apparantly BMW built the 75 entirley and designed it themselves and all the parts and engines (yes, the 2.5V6 in one advert stated it was a BMW unit and not one of the rubbish Rover engines) are BMW.

This is more than enough proof that there are really stupid people, really gullable people and people who really hate anything British. :***:
 

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And I think us '75' owners know, that when the 75 production was moved from Cowley to Longbridge, quality actually improved. So much for BMW quality!
 

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My 620 GSDI is great! Very good accelleration, excellent on the motoway and very economical. Cost £4.8k 30 months and 75k miles ago. Total mileage now 141k. Tyres last forever too. Why would I want anything else!
 

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My 97 P reg 620Sltdi did 192K and I had to sell it. I did not want to but we needed an estate for our Holiday Home. I see the car every other day as it's a Taxi in Barnsley. It was flame red but is turning pink now. I would have another one any day but not with the smoke stone interior as by the time I got rid it turned grey due to muck and was a nightmare to clean. The turning circle is the only real complaint about the car I had.
 

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I think the only thing wrong with the 600 diesel was that it was noisy and felt a little agricultural. But it was the first Rover to get the TCie (L series) diesel engine, and one could lay the same concern at the bubble shape Rover 200/25 with the same engine. The HHR (bubble Rover 400) was far superior in terms of refinement.

The 600 went like stink and was very economical. I would definitely consider one if I was in the market for a 2nd hand car upto a value of around £1500 and could find a good one.
 

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I read about the window jumping its runners. Has anyone else had that problem, cause I know we did. As soon as we got it the window smashed and fell out when trying to close it. Must have happened 3 times and it took the mechanic 3 times to find the problem. I think we had the seal replaced and it fixed it and didnt have any problems after that.
 

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rover_75
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600s have two main faults, easily fixed. The central locking solenoids on the locks eventually weaken, about £30 each to replace and a simple job of taking the door card off and replacing.

The other is the window rubbers dry creating too much friction for the mechanism, the rollers on the cantalever which raises the window are plastic !!! These snap and the cantalevers drop which means the windows don't rise or fall. A replacement cantalever is about £60 and are a bit fiddly to replace having to remove most of the door card and internals but not impossible. I've done one on my previous 620Si and if I can do it, anyone can :)

Prevention is very simple, some good silicon grease inside the rubbers where the windows are held seems to work. I did this after one failed and the other was fine for another 40,000 miles. It never happened on my 623 and I got that to 90,000 miles.

All 600s are generally very reliable as long as you stick to some simple rules. Keep them serviced, especially the Ti's, a 6,000 mile oil change will prolong the engine life dramatically. Never use a fully-synth oil on the 2.3, the Honda H23 is a pretty basic engine (no hydralic tappets) and as such doesn't like fully synth. Also, never use a cheap oil filter with the 2.0 or 2.3, it must have a non-return valve in the filter otherwise excessive tappet wear is inevitable.

Auto gearboxes can benefit from an oil change every 30,000 miles. Other than that, I've had two, some friends have had the odd one and I've never heard a bad word about them. Go for one with a stamped FSH and they are a very reasonable and cost effective way of getting around.

As for the diesels, a cabbie friend of mine has his up to 275,000 miles, loves it, same thing applies, simple servicing, change the cam belts when you should, regular oil changes and it will go to intersellar mileage.
 

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That discussion IS SO FUNNY.

Just for the record my MGTF K Series was built by Lotus, tuned by McLaren and commissioned by Ford :S :) :) Fools
 

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Rovertron said:
600s have two main faults, easily fixed. The central locking solenoids on the locks eventually weaken, about £30 each to replace and a simple job of taking the door card off and replacing.

The other is the window rubbers dry creating too much friction for the mechanism, the rollers on the cantalever which raises the window are plastic !!! These snap and the cantalevers drop which means the windows don't rise or fall. A replacement cantalever is about £60 and are a bit fiddly to replace having to remove most of the door card and internals but not impossible. I've done one on my previous 620Si and if I can do it, anyone can :)

Prevention is very simple, some good silicon grease inside the rubbers where the windows are held seems to work. I did this after one failed and the other was fine for another 40,000 miles. It never happened on my 623 and I got that to 90,000 miles.
Rovertron - Sorry to sound like a dunce, but can you tell me in more detail how to stop the windows sticking (preferably in words of two syllables or less!!). My 600s on about 125k and the windows are starting to judder when I open them because of the friction. Do I need to take the door card off to do this, or do you just mean open the window and put grease in the track where the window was?

Cheers

Rob
 

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rob020203 said:
Rovertron - Sorry to sound like a dunce, but can you tell me in more detail how to stop the windows sticking (preferably in words of two syllables or less!!). My 600s on about 125k and the windows are starting to judder when I open them because of the friction. Do I need to take the door card off to do this, or do you just mean open the window and put grease in the track where the window was?

Cheers

Rob
Apologies for hijacking Rovertron's post, but what I think he's talking about is silicon spray on the rubber window seals. I just bought a can of this from Halfords for about £4. Sprayed it on, rubbed it in and my windows slide up and down far more smoothly. If this doesn't work you may need to take the door cards off and grease (with general purpose grease not silicon) the internal runners/window regulator (and check for worn bushes, bent bits etc.).
 
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