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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since Ive had my R25 (almost a month now) I have found that the brake pedal seems to go down a long way before the brakes have any effect.
Id say that at least half way down, maybe more. Even light braking needs my foot to go down a fair way just to scrub off a bit of speed.

They work well when the pedal is really pushed hard down , and apparantly the pads have a few months left, but I sometimes am a bit alarmed at how unresponsive they feel especially when needing to stop quiclky!

Is this a normal trait for r25 for this extraordinary travel or is this something that can be sorted??

Thanks in advance
 

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cityrover
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No its not normal, brakes normally start to bite pretty much straight away. Sounds like you have air in the system. Best way would be to bleed them all fully.
 

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Ensure that the hand brake and rear brakes are correctly adjusted. Under adjusted shoes an over adjusted handbrake will cause excessive travel on the pedal before anything happens.
 

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worse case scenario, front pad change / rear shoes adjust / hand brake reset / brake fluid change you only want to be looking at 2 hours lab.
 

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cityrover
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If you are handy with a spanner they arent all that difficult jobs. Bleeding them is the most difficult but you can get kits which help a lot. Haynes manuals are invaluable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I wish I was handy with a spanner, but im really not.

Thinking of doing a mechanics course (if such things exist at night school), i reckon the money spent would be paid off very quickly in labour costs!!
 

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cityrover
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GreggoTheClown said:
I wish I was handy with a spanner, but im really not.

Thinking of doing a mechanics course (if such things exist at night school), i reckon the money spent would be paid off very quickly in labour costs!!
Yeh they are extremly handy. A lot of its just having the confidence to have a go and belive in yourself. The haynes manual does have a lot of useful info in though.
 

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rover_100
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GreggoTheClown said:
Oh dear :(

Any idea roughly how much it will cost to get this done at a garage @ £25 per hour labour?

Come down to Portugal and for those 25 pounds you'll get a complete diagnostic of the braking system (front discs and pads, rear drums/discs and shoes/pads), complete bleed of the circuit (using DOT4 with pressurized filling system, not much more expensive for the Ferodo fluid DOT5.1) and handbrake adjustment.

So, it's just what? A thousand miles? :=p:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
yeah, im definately going to purchase the r25 haynes manual.

I have bought a new clutch cable and am debating whether to try and change it myself with the help of a manual, rather than paying some one else £25 to do it!
 

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GreggoTheClown said:
yeah, im definately going to purchase the r25 haynes manual.

I have bought a new clutch cable and am debating whether to try and change it myself with the help of a manual, rather than paying some one else £25 to do it!

Shouldnt cost £25 to have a cabled fitted unless they AKA **** Turpin
 

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GreggoTheClown said:
yeah, im definately going to purchase the r25 haynes manual.

I have bought a new clutch cable and am debating whether to try and change it myself with the help of a manual, rather than paying some one else £25 to do it!
Clutch cable? A child could probably do it. Easy enough to do. Get a manual and you'll be sorted.
What's wrong with the cable anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Got the cable changed, one of my mates did it , hes in to hsi cars.

I found the clutch to be very notchy when coming up and it made moving off very jerky at times. I presumed it to be that the cable was drying up.

Turns out there was quite a bad kink in the cable. :run!:

Ah well, the new cable is fitted and the car feel so much better to drive now, prob due to it being nice and lube dup lol.

Will this smoothness of the clutch last for a good while now?
 
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