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04 MG TF Sunstorm 135
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

So I recently managed to get my first car (2004 TF Sunstorm 135) and it's generally in decent condition when it comes to rust. Apart from the nearside rear sill corner (see pic). I don't think this needs to be welded yet anyway and was looking at repairing it at home with some mesh, fibreglass and filler etc but realised you can't really get access to the inside of the sill if that makes sense?

From what I know about small bodywork repairs the wire mesh is placed on the back or inside of the area you want to patch? but is this at all possible? (ignore the white liquid, I had some rust converter leftover from something else which I applied to try and do something for now haha)

Many thanks for any help you guys can give me :)
Automotive tire Liquid Wood Fluid Table
 

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Hi there,

So I recently managed to get my first car (2004 TF Sunstorm 135) and it's generally in decent condition when it comes to rust. Apart from the nearside rear sill corner (see pic). I don't think this needs to be welded yet anyway and was looking at repairing it at home with some mesh, fibreglass and filler etc but realised you can't really get access to the inside of the sill if that makes sense?

From what I know about small bodywork repairs the wire mesh is placed on the back or inside of the area you want to patch? but is this at all possible? (ignore the white liquid, I had some rust converter leftover from something else which I applied to try and do something for now haha)

Many thanks for any help you guys can give me :) View attachment 137111
Hi I would say grind/sand the area back to metal then maybe enlarge the hole so that you can get some mesh inside the sill, put some fine wire through the mesh before you push it into the sill then put filler onto mesh pull the wire tight until the filler sets. Once the filler is set remove the wire then carry on with the repair until you get it as you want it. Should have said to put filler on the mesh so that it bonds to the inside of sill when you pull the wire tight. Hope this helps in some way. Regards.
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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Check if there is anyone you know who's a welder or know someone who will repair it cheap.....filler and mesh on a sill is a botch job and affects the structure of the vehicle, plus unless you get it back to good metal any filler (as the sill is hollow will just hold water and allow the rust to spread further. Once its back to good metal, get a patch welded in from inside the sill - cut metal, push through hole and get magnet to pull it to the outer side of sill, once a few tack welds are done the magnet can be removed to allow the repair patch to be welded full. You can then fill to match body, due to metal behind the filler it won't hold water and the repair will be be far cheaper if you do most of the prep work, all a welder needs to do it weld the patch in. Had similar done to my TF160 a few years back, cost £50 for patches on both drivers and passengers side of sill, as a mate knew the person. I've invested in a welder since but not done any welding on any of my F's or TF's since I'ge had it, although have used it to do major welding on a Mazda Bongo I had.
 

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Exactly what Dert has said - it won’t take you much longer than a filler bodge, but it will last ten times longer.

Good luck.
 

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04 MG TF Sunstorm 135
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Check if there is anyone you know who's a welder or know someone who will repair it cheap.....filler and mesh on a sill is a botch job and affects the structure of the vehicle, plus unless you get it back to good metal any filler (as the sill is hollow will just hold water and allow the rust to spread further. Once its back to good metal, get a patch welded in from inside the sill - cut metal, push through hole and get magnet to pull it to the outer side of sill, once a few tack welds are done the magnet can be removed to allow the repair patch to be welded full. You can then fill to match body, due to metal behind the filler it won't hold water and the repair will be be far cheaper if you do most of the prep work, all a welder needs to do it weld the patch in. Had similar done to my TF160 a few years back, cost £50 for patches on both drivers and passengers side of sill, as a mate knew the person. I've invested in a welder since but not done any welding on any of my F's or TF's since I'ge had it, although have used it to do major welding on a Mazda Bongo I had.
That makes sense, much appreciated. I suppose filler jobs are fine for non-structural body panels more so than sills etc. I'll pop down to a few garages next week and have a look, I do happen to own an angle grinder but just unsure how good it is to leave the car for a few days with a gaping hole in the sill haha. I have been looking into welding but seems rather daunting but defiantly something I can see being very useful. Always loved the bongos!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As you have an angle grinder get an appropriate sized poly disc, these are not too aggressive but will strip the paint and the rust off.

Something like: Abracs Poly Abrasive Disc 115 x 22mm
I've been looking at something like that when I was looking at using filler and going down that route but surely just a standard metal cutting disc to cut a square out is better if I'm going down the welding route?
 

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If you are getting someone else to do the welding then I would leave the cutting to them, however you may want to see how big the issue is under that bubbly paint.
 

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Sounds like you're getting it done by a welder which would be the right move, but FYI I think the 'go-to' welding technique for this sort of repair would be MIG (Metal Inert Gas). The hole is ground/cut back to clean sound metal, a suitably formed metal patch is cut to suit, then it is tacked into place at a few points, with maybe a bit of tapping with a hammer as things go along to adjust the fit. Then a more continuous weld is put in place once the tacks are in. Bit of body filler to get a smooth finish, you're there.

MIG is an appropriate welding process for thin metal like car body skin and can be done by someone who isn't very skilled as you can get away with just placing a lot of single tack welds one at a time. These don't put a lot of heat into the body at any one time so don't distort the bodywork metal very much.

All the same, once you've bought the MIG welder, the inert gas bottle and the welding wire it's a lot more expensive than having someone else do it! I'm getting a MIG welder myself soon.

I'd have thought access to the rear of the sill would be through the side intakes - pop off the appropriate side intake grille and unless there's something in the way I'd imagine you could reach the inside of the rear of the sill with your hand.
 

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Should be an easy job for a bodyshop with a MIG patch weld, should not cost too much either. A lot of TF's are going in this area, what looks like a small rust bubble and then you go to treat it and end up with a hole! Bilt Hamber will help you out after the repair along both sills etc.
 

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Check if there is anyone you know who's a welder or know someone who will repair it cheap.....filler and mesh on a sill is a botch job and affects the structure of the vehicle, plus unless you get it back to good metal any filler (as the sill is hollow will just hold water and allow the rust to spread further. Once its back to good metal, get a patch welded in from inside the sill - cut metal, push through hole and get magnet to pull it to the outer side of sill, once a few tack welds are done the magnet can be removed to allow the repair patch to be welded full. You can then fill to match body, due to metal behind the filler it won't hold water and the repair will be be far cheaper if you do most of the prep work, all a welder needs to do it weld the patch in. Had similar done to my TF160 a few years back, cost £50 for patches on both drivers and passengers side of sill, as a mate knew the person. I've invested in a welder since but not done any welding on any of my F's or TF's since I'ge had it, although have used it to do major welding on a Mazda Bongo I had.
I agree completely with what you have said. But KERNOWAUDIO was asking about doing it with mesh/fibreglass and filler, that's why I gave the advice I did. In an ideal world it is going to be best practice to cut out and weld. Regards.
 

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I agree completely with what you have said. But KERNOWAUDIO was asking about doing it with mesh/fibreglass and filler, that's why I gave the advice I did. In an ideal world it is going to be best practice to cut out and weld. Regards.
My post was no way suggesting he shouldn't use mesh, I was just giving an option, which to be honest would likely be easier to do than faffing about with mesh and filler.
 
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