MG-Rover.org Forums banner
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
does anyone have the service sheets for a rover 25 td as mine has dropped so much power recently im finding it hard to climb hills could it be a turbo failure its done 44000 miles and i believe it runs a t15 also how could i increase boost not by much just so i get a bit more power but dont do any damage
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,799 Posts
edders said:
does anyone have the service sheets for a rover 25 td as mine has dropped so much power recently im finding it hard to climb hills could it be a turbo failure its done 44000 miles and i believe it runs a t15 also how could i increase boost not by much just so i get a bit more power but dont do any damage
Turbo failure is extremely rare. The first thing I'd check is whether one of the intercooler pipes is split - the two massive black pipes to the right hand side of the engine as you look at it. One went on my ZR-TD at 40,000 miles, and it was struggling to hit 80mph on the flat, with a fair bit of smoke coming out of the exhaust. The way I confirmed it was a split pipe was by revving the engine using the throttle potentiometer, and I could hear/feel what was like a mini hurricane under the bonnet, as the air was escaping. This is located on the left hand side under the bonnet, behind the power steering reservoir, and has a small steel cable running into it. You can rotate the part the cable goes into by hand. Do this, and rev the engine to 3-4000rpm, and a split pipe might reveal itself.

Failing this, do a search for MAF sensor problems, unplugging the MAF can give a boost at low to medium rpm's if it's faulty, revealing this as a cause of lost power. If the MAF is contaminated/aged, you can install a device called a MAFAM, which a resident diesel guru on these forums called Rover Ron produces, which can restore lost power. If the MAF is totally dead though, i.e. the sensor wire is broken, it will need replacing.

Does your orange "check engine" light illuminate when you turn the ignition on? If so, does it stay on afterwards, or go off after a couple of seconds? From memory, MAF and intercooler pipe issues do not cause it to illuminate. If it does stay lit, there are other things to consider, such as a dodgy crank position sensor or its wiring, broken needle lift sensor or its wiring (located on the first (left) fuel injector).

A failed turbo should be the last thing to consider. If the turbo is failing, the last thing you want to do is increase the boost pressure, as this will put more strain on the turbo, which could cause a more serious failure. A majorly failed turbo can cause debris to be sucked into the engine, at which point it may well be new engine time. Even if it is not the turbo that is failing, do not try increasing the boost much, because you could be running too high boost levels when the fault is fixed, and the turbo may well fail further on down the line.


BTW the service schedule doesn't hold any information on problems with intercooler pipes, sensors or turbos.

Don't fear the worst - the most likely culprits are far cheaper than a new turbo. A new intercooler pipe cost me about £30, a MAF sensor can be had for about £50, and a MAFAM is about £50.
Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ive just found out that its the maf sensor i unplugged it and it revs so much more freely

you mention i can get a maf for around 50 quid were from
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,799 Posts
See this page, explains a cheaper and more effective solution to the unreliable Bosch/Rover MAF's:

http://45zs.info/Pierburgh/pierburgh.htm

If you choose this route you are looking at about £50 for the Pierburgh MAF (Euro Car Parts), and £50 for the MAFAM MF1P from Rover Ron on the website above. You need to add a MAFAM as the Pierburgh MAF has no temperature sensor unlike the Rover/Bosch one, but it still works out cheaper than a new Rover one.

The Pierburgh MAF's are said to be more robust, and don't fail as much, so will hopefully avoid having to shell out again in the future. And you have the advantage of the MAFAM, which can boost the new MAF as it ages due to contamination over time.

Your failure sounds (relatively) unusual, most MAF problems are due to contamination causing a gradual drop off in power, causing some people to want/buy a new car, thinking nothing's wrong with theirs. Faulty MAF's don't flag a fault code either, so there must be thousands of people driving around totally oblivious to the extra performance that could be unleashed.

Expect a boost above 3500rpm or so when you replace your MAF, compared to having it unplugged. Mine revs quickly to the redline in 1st, 2nd and 3rd with a goof MAF.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,799 Posts
IAT1 Separate sensor on cable. £5 inc p&p (uk).

on Rover Ron's site. So you may not need to buy a MAFAM after all if you get a Pierburgh MAF, just add this sensor instead, so you could be looking at about £55 to fix it. Still recommend a MAFAM as the miles pile on though, to overcome the effects of the MAF aging, but maybe you could get one later instead of straight away.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top