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Hi guys
I am changing the head gasket to my rover 45. In rimmer brothers they tell me that next to the kit I have to buy the sealant LVV000108EVA. Do you know what this sealant is for? because they told me that for the butt gasket it is not.

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LVV000108EVA

That's for the camshaft bearing ladder, you have a cam cover to remove, then under that is the camshaft bearing ladder. That needs to be removed to take the camshafts out. However the head gasket should be able to be changed without disturbing the camshafts.

It's been a number of years since I've done one, but if it's like the kv6 then you don't have to remove the camshaft bearing ladder to get the head off.

I believe that anaerobic sealant is loctite 574, Loctite 518 would be just as good.

Connor.

 

That's for the camshaft bearing ladder, you have a cam cover to remove, then under that is the camshaft bearing ladder. That needs to be removed to take the camshafts out. However the head gasket should be able to be changed without disturbing the camshafts.

It's been a number of years since I've done one, but if it's like the kv6 then you don't have to remove the camshaft bearing ladder to get the head off.

I believe that anaerobic sealant is loctite 745, Loctite 718 would be just as good.

Connor.

Correct if you remove the complete head you won’t disturb the cam shafts so you shouldn’t need the sealant


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Which head gasket type are you buying??

If you are intending to fit the SAIC type six layer MLS head gasket kit (ZUA000530: which includes the stiffer bottom oil rail), or are using the SLS/elastomer gasket (LVB000321) or the first type MLS head gasket (LVB100190) and are planning on fitting the stiffer oil rail (LCN000140) too, you will need that sealant for the oil rail to main bearing ladder join, and for the sump to main bearing ladder.

If you are not fitting the oil rail, you won't need it down below, and you will only need to separate the cam carrier from the head if you want to remove the valves to re-grind/re-lap the valves or if the valves need to be removed to enable the head to be skimmed (if you have significant fire ring indentation). You will then need that sealant between the head and cam carrier for reassembly.

 

Considering the bad result that the board that I brought from the factory (LVB000321) has given me, I am going to opt for the multi-sheet board https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-ZUA000080.

This kit brings the reinforced oil rail.

The stock has been removed without having to disassemble its components and is in good condition.

So the sealant, I just have to use it between the new oil rail and the engine block to which I'm going to screw it?


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Use a thin layer of the anaerobic sealant for all metal-to-metal joints that don't have a physical gasket. Both at the top and bottom of the engine - ie bottom oil rail and cam carrier joint.

But NOT used on the head gasket - that is fitted bare.

Be careful not to use too much and block any oil ways...

 

Use loctite 574 sealant. Applied to the bottom of the cam carrier on all the machine services then use something like a plastic roller to smooth it all out making sure you have a flat even covering and there's no sealant in the oil ways. As said don't put any on the head gasket. Did you not fancy using the new sixth layer gasket as used on the late MGS

 

You can only use the mls gasket if the cylinder liners are more than 3thou proud of the block,lower or flush liners need the payen elastomer gasket


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That is always the general advice given, but in particular MG John has done a couple of HG replacements on cars which had little or no liner stand proud and used the original type MLS and shim, but didn't seem to have any subsequent problems with those engines. I used the six layer gasket on my ZR six years and nearly 50k miles ago, and the liner stand proud was less than 2 thou - it had only done 39k on the original SLS gasket. The coolant has been changed completely after five years, but has needed absolutely no topping up otherwise, and so far, no other head gasket issues appear to have developed.

So the sealant, I just have to use it between the new oil rail and the engine block to which I'm going to screw it?

Use it on the new oil rail (the areas to apply it are shown in both the Haynes manual and on RAVE), and also use it to seal the sump when you refit it.

John suggestion of Loctite 574 is a good one, although when I was doing my head gasket a while ago, the smallest size of Loctite 574 that I could find was way more than I required, and more expensive than the MGR/XPart stuff. I think Rover originally sourced the cam carrier/sump sealant from Loctite, so it may well have been Loctite 574 that was used in the factory.

 

If you use a loctite anaerobic sealant it should do the job. Most manufacturers say to use their own


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Sealant LVV000108EVA is used on the uprated oil rail to block (3 spots).

For the sump to block sealant, it has been uprated from LVV000108EVA to LVV000010/LUA000050L, which is ThreeBond adhesive 1133 (MG Rover Technical Bulletin TB0318). Some parts website have mistakenly said LVV000010 has been superseded by LVV000108EVA, which is incorrect.

 

Actually, it is correct - LVV000010 (Threebond 1133) is no longer available from XPart, so all the XPart parts information and parts listings (which are used by the XPart resellers such as Rimmers) have reverted to pointing to LVV000108LVA as its replacement, which was basically what was used for the sump to bearing ladder interface previously (or at least, a similar sealant).

MG Rover only switched to using the Threebond 1133 in July 2004, so not all that many engines will have had that used on their sump anyway. It has a higher bond strength then the earlier (Loctite) sealant, so must not be used on the cam carrier - likely to bend the alloy if it needs removal again in the future (I've been there, done that and got the certificate to prove it )

 

That sort of makes sense as to why they changed back to LVV000108LVA. But the uprated/stronger sealant LVV000010 (ThreeBond 1133) is still available from Xpart as part of Sealant Pack - LZB000030.

 

Measurements with gauge always give curvature values ​​below 0.1 mm. In most cases below 0.05 mm. So the MLS gasket could be the most recommended option for this repair, right?

https://www.instagram.com/p/Byp6PdCB4iB/

 

In this video they recommend buying the last cylinder head gasket that is being marketed. Do you agree with the recommendation?

https://www.instagram.com/p/Byp9CcxBh9z/

 

Then the six layer gasket would be the board that gives the best results. Where can it be bought?