To be fair if the car has been serviced at a Rover dealer then the warranty will uphold as they are supposed to check stone chips/body damage and touch them up. To be honest when rust starts on a panel it is very hard to stop it coming back even with the rust cures. If you could afford to I would get the rust cut out and maybe a repair panel put in.
Rusting Arches - HELP!!
Rusting BRM Arches - HELP!!
After washing & waxing my BRM yesterday, I noticed rust developing round the rear arches (despite the plastic linings!!). As Idon't want to let this get serious I was wondering on the best course of urgent action. After reading the anti-corrosion warranty that came with the car it is apparent that it not all its cracked up to be. Importantly ROver have put the magic clause in that the warranty does not cover damage from stone ships. Is it worth pursuing or should I get the car booked into a repair shop without bothering Rover?
After washing & waxing my BRM yesterday, I noticed rust developing round the rear arches (despite the plastic linings!!). As Idon't want to let this get serious I was wondering on the best course of urgent action. After reading the anti-corrosion warranty that came with the car it is apparent that it not all its cracked up to be. Importantly ROver have put the magic clause in that the warranty does not cover damage from stone ships. Is it worth pursuing or should I get the car booked into a repair shop without bothering Rover?
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The cars fully serviced at a Rover dealer every year, as well as an oil change every 6 months - thats why I'll never be a rich man!!
Try the dealer to get it repaired. There should be no reason that they would not cover it.
How deep is it? (stick a pin in)
Just a small surface bubble on the offside at the moment but on inspection, its flaking all around the inner lip. There's no build up of sludge as I regularily jet wash it at this time of year.
I'll try the dealer first but I won't hold my breath!! Gotta get it right as I don't want to lose the car, going to France in it in August to play with the Frogs!!
I'll try the dealer first but I won't hold my breath!! Gotta get it right as I don't want to lose the car, going to France in it in August to play with the Frogs!!
Went to the dealers (Dixons) and they were brutaly honest in saying that the warranty wasn't worth the paper it was written on. They said that the rust has to start from the inside of a panel and rust through into a hole, also the warranty didn't cover stonechips. As the rust was around the arches I wouldn't get any joy from Rover.
Took it to a couple of good sprayshops and they both quoted me £400 to cut out the rust and weld in new arches. I did ask them to include the front off side wing though where some numpty in a 4 x 4 opened their door on it in Asda.
Took it to a couple of good sprayshops and they both quoted me £400 to cut out the rust and weld in new arches. I did ask them to include the front off side wing though where some numpty in a 4 x 4 opened their door on it in Asda.
£400 is very expensive, shop around I'm sure you can get the work done for much less than that.
Mt mate has just had both rear arches done on his 1999 Ford Focus for £180 !
Mt mate has just had both rear arches done on his 1999 Ford Focus for £180 !
Well for a start jet wash is a big no, no in my book it does more damage to the paint work then a car wash. Not to mention stripping all the wax of the paint. Which Dixon did you goto the one in Barnsley is known to be more then slack with work. What they say is true it does have to start from the inside but as you have rust on the inside lip of the arch then it would have started from the underside. Is there any chance you can get a picture of it and the price from body shops is way to much I can get two new wheel arch panels put on and painted for that price.
all i can is JOIN THE GANG!
i have rust and the rover warrenty is a bloody fast. My car is always serviced and checked, and the corrosion warrenty was always done, so how comes its rusted? Well that aside, it has taken me 2 years of constant debating with rover, and i still didnt get anywhere.
I have had my arch done now, one new arch and what a job! A new arch cut a placed in and the shaping is perfect. Dont let people say 'putting a new arch on and welding will crack with the shutting of the doors over time' it may well be, please dont get me wrong but if its done properly it should be fine. Just make sure that the gargae is well credited, a member of some sort of automobile (not sure what it is, blue writing and a blue car with lines coming out and around it) as the brooklands green is not that hard to match, you should be fine. If the garage dosent do it then, give it 2 weeks and spray the arch with wax oil. Although 2-pack drys very quickly in comparison to celluoise (sp?) based it cant do it any harm.
Now, for some reason, the people that sell the replacment arches have been slow in getting them to the repair shops. The 200 chasis is considered quite old now (please no one take offence!) and the replacement arch is still not around. It may of just come out by now (fingers crossed) if not, the spray shop will cut, shape and weld a new arch from steel sheet. They should galvensie the panel.
I HTH and you get it sorted. It may be worth leaving it a little longer until it does get worse, either way, its best to cut it out, a little harsh but its considered a type of cancer for cars.
Ben.
i have rust and the rover warrenty is a bloody fast. My car is always serviced and checked, and the corrosion warrenty was always done, so how comes its rusted? Well that aside, it has taken me 2 years of constant debating with rover, and i still didnt get anywhere.
I have had my arch done now, one new arch and what a job! A new arch cut a placed in and the shaping is perfect. Dont let people say 'putting a new arch on and welding will crack with the shutting of the doors over time' it may well be, please dont get me wrong but if its done properly it should be fine. Just make sure that the gargae is well credited, a member of some sort of automobile (not sure what it is, blue writing and a blue car with lines coming out and around it) as the brooklands green is not that hard to match, you should be fine. If the garage dosent do it then, give it 2 weeks and spray the arch with wax oil. Although 2-pack drys very quickly in comparison to celluoise (sp?) based it cant do it any harm.
Now, for some reason, the people that sell the replacment arches have been slow in getting them to the repair shops. The 200 chasis is considered quite old now (please no one take offence!) and the replacement arch is still not around. It may of just come out by now (fingers crossed) if not, the spray shop will cut, shape and weld a new arch from steel sheet. They should galvensie the panel.
I HTH and you get it sorted. It may be worth leaving it a little longer until it does get worse, either way, its best to cut it out, a little harsh but its considered a type of cancer for cars.
Ben.
i dont entirly agree with jet washing stripping the waxes off the paint. Jet washing is fine for paintworks but you must keep a good clearance from the body to the end of the lance. jet washing can have its pros and cons. Pros being effective at removing dirt from hard to reach places but poor as to water getting in where its not supposed to. Please dont take this comment as an argument, its just that i have been a valeter in the past and have seen all sorts of things happen with jet washes, one of them including water getting into a escort engine! He got the sack put it that way!Sejin26 said:Well for a start jet wash is a big no, no in my book it does more damage to the paint work then a car wash. Not to mention stripping all the wax of the paint. Which Dixon did you goto the one in Barnsley is known to be more then slack with work. What they say is true it does have to start from the inside but as you have rust on the inside lip of the arch then it would have started from the underside. Is there any chance you can get a picture of it and the price from body shops is way to much I can get two new wheel arch panels put on and painted for that price.
Ben.
From what I remmber the corrosion warrenty is a perforation one and since you've not got holes in them then you can't claim.
As for what you should do well take the rust out back to bare metal with sanding and wire brushing. Apply rust treatment and fill ant small pits if necessary. Apply zinc rich primer. Apply red oxide primer, apply colour primer if necessary and then apply paint and lacquer. Job done. No need to go cutting out arches until the rot is very bad. (And that is why there isn't a repair panel off of the shelf available as it never really gets that bad). If you go to the trouble of finding a body shop to manufacture you an arch then it is likely to be quite expensive to repair. Also the repair panel almost certainly won't be galvanised whereas the original panel probably was at least electro galvanised..
P.S. nebburns where did you get your arch done and how much did it cost as I need some custom arches making for my van. (Now they ARE rusty!)
As for what you should do well take the rust out back to bare metal with sanding and wire brushing. Apply rust treatment and fill ant small pits if necessary. Apply zinc rich primer. Apply red oxide primer, apply colour primer if necessary and then apply paint and lacquer. Job done. No need to go cutting out arches until the rot is very bad. (And that is why there isn't a repair panel off of the shelf available as it never really gets that bad). If you go to the trouble of finding a body shop to manufacture you an arch then it is likely to be quite expensive to repair. Also the repair panel almost certainly won't be galvanised whereas the original panel probably was at least electro galvanised..
P.S. nebburns where did you get your arch done and how much did it cost as I need some custom arches making for my van. (Now they ARE rusty!)
hi mate,E_T_V said:From what I remmber the corrosion warrenty is a perforation one and since you've not got holes in them then you can't claim.
As for what you should do well take the rust out back to bare metal with sanding and wire brushing. Apply rust treatment and fill ant small pits if necessary. Apply zinc rich primer. Apply red oxide primer, apply colour primer if necessary and then apply paint and lacquer. Job done. No need to go cutting out arches until the rot is very bad. (And that is why there isn't a repair panel off of the shelf available as it never really gets that bad). If you go to the trouble of finding a body shop to manufacture you an arch then it is likely to be quite expensive to repair. Also the repair panel almost certainly won't be galvanised whereas the original panel probably was at least electro galvanised..
P.S. nebburns where did you get your arch done and how much did it cost as I need some custom arches making for my van. (Now they ARE rusty!)
my arch was done at mercedes benz of sheffield, their accident repair centre.
They are very expensive but very very good.
Although, there is a place in sheffield called, xtreme bodies, based in Hillsborough. I havent the number to hand as its in my car, they can put a new arch and spray for £180. 2days max.
HTH
Ben.
ETV why do you have to use 2 different primers under the coloured one? Can you explain me what exactly each one does? (well i sort of know about the zinc one...but what is the rex oxide?).E_T_V said:As for what you should do well take the rust out back to bare metal with sanding and wire brushing. Apply rust treatment and fill ant small pits if necessary. Apply zinc rich primer. Apply red oxide primer, apply colour primer if necessary and then apply paint and lacquer. Job done.
Basically it is extra protection and in the wheelarch area you may need it. Both the zinc rich primer and the red oxide primer help protect against rust and spreading of it. (although the zinc is probably the better of the two). You can omit one of the primers if you really want however as their colours are contrasting I find it useful as a guide coat to see where any high or low spots in any filled areas are. Its a belt and braces sort of approach to try to minimise the possibility of the dreaded tin worm re-appearing.
At the moment i am in the process of sanding a few places in the engine bay...i brought them down to bare metal, but i was just going to apply directly the coloured primer afterwards. Should i definitely use the zinc primer in your opinion? Sure is that i don't want to repeat this job in the near future
If it is in a rust prone area that is exposed then yes I'd recommend you use a zinc rich primer as it will help stop any stone ships turning into large rust holes by slowing the corrosion process down. If not in an exposed area then a normal primer should be ok.
BarnsleyBill where about do you live? There's a bodyshop in Dodworth i use that are quite good and pretty cheap, don't know what they could or would do with rusty wheel arches but if you live nearby you could drop in and have a word. it's only a small place, run by a bloke and his son but they do a good job, they rebuilt my ZS after I piled into a wall
Schtopper, I've moved to Rothwell near Wakefield but I still work in Barnsley. Let me have the address of your paintshop and I'll pop in sometime.
Perhaps my quote seems expensive as I also asked them to price in the front wing which looks **** after a poor cosmetic job (through Dixons).
Perhaps my quote seems expensive as I also asked them to price in the front wing which looks **** after a poor cosmetic job (through Dixons).
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