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Hi all,

I am brand new to the forums so please tell me if this is posted in the wrong place. I have just bought a TF for a summer car/lockdown project. On the underside, there is a bit of surface rust on things like the front subframe, and more serious corrosion on (what I think is) the front anti-roll bar.

What is the best way to underseal/fix these issues? I am new to working on cars but will give it a go. Is it worth buying a new front anti-roll bar and fitting it? Could anyone point me in the right direction of how to do this and what part I would need.

Thanks for your help in advance.
 

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Stick some photos on here of what you are talking about.
If you search the posts this year - theres a post about corrosion that a few of us have answered/contributed to.

All doable, especially as we all have time on our hands- I actually moved mine on Wednesday this week- Id been following instructions and shielding my wife as shes vunerable- so yes, Ive not been out for 8 weeks!!
 

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Front anti-roll bar. Rust on this has no real effect on its integrity as it's so thick, so no real reason to replace unless money is no object or you have no where to work. My 2004 TF had the same issue. I took it off. Not a big job in the grand scheme of things but I can't remember now what access was like - you'd at least have to either get underneath (careful - do not rely on a jack) or remove the front wheels to get reasonable access, although it may be possible to do it just normally parked up. I had the car on stands and the nose and wheels off anyway so was spoiled for access .
The anti-roll bar is held on by a bolt at each end (to the drop-links) and by two brackets with rubbers in them. The powder coat had failed and there were large rust blisters. Not the sort of job where the odd patch here and there makes any sense IMO.
I used a grinder with a flap sanding disc and just removed every last bit of powder coat and rust. A word of caution here - wear tough gloves/goggles and make sure the grinder shield is pointing towards your hands on the grinder grip as the flap disc is pretty aggressive! You could possibly use a wire wheel in a drill too, but I made more progress with the flap disc.
Once the powder coat and rust was all gone I coated the bar in two or three coats of zinc spray primer, then two of Dinitrol 4941 spray underseal, then finally with black spray stonechip. I'm not sure if stonechip is meant to go on underseal (but why not?) but I am more trusting of protective coatings that don't fully dry out/cure nowadays as I think they protect better than simple paints, so I went with the underseal. Also, I find spray application better than brush application - I think it achieves better and more even coverage.
I don't believe it is possible to get a good job done on the anti-roll bar if done in situ but if a quick patch up is wanted, something could be done without removing it I suppose. Aggravating working on it under those conditions though.

As far as the front subframe goes - that really does require good access. Jack up the car and place the front on axle stands and chock the rear wheels etc. Safety first and all that. Remove the front wheels. Remove the arch liners. For total access remove the nose but some sort of a job could be done with it in place. Most basic approach is to wire brush/wire wheel any corrosion where you can see it. Chip off any thick rust scale using some suitable metal implement. Clean everything up with a decent detergent designed for this sort of application. Apply rust-eater chemical - I used Metal Ready from Frost but go with what you want - usually it's a phosphoric acid of some sort. Make multiple applications (really pitted rust is hard to remove without using something stronger). Paint when it's all bone dry during a dry spell (obviously, follow the rust remover instructions - it may be necessary to clean off any residue before painting). I would suggest using Zinc spray primer and/or Dinitrol spray underseal 4941 in areas that can't be seen. There's a lot of prep work involved and how long it lasts depends on how well you do the prep work. Need at least two and preferably three coats.
 
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