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hi Folks looking for some information on the above as i took a brainstorm and bought one of these at the weekend as a toy.
The car is a 1997 Vitesse 2lt Turbo can anybody tell me which engine series is in this?
What are the known faults?
What type of oils for engine and gearbox
Can I buy door hinge pins or is it a complete hinge if so is it the same as the 820 saloon
All comments welcome except the ones re my sanity!!!!!!!!!
Many thanks in advance
 

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The 820 Coupe uses the T series Rover engine.
 

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Brian W Tumbler said:
hi Folks looking for some information on the above as i took a brainstorm and bought one of these at the weekend as a toy.
The car is a 1997 Vitesse 2lt Turbo can anybody tell me which engine series is in this?
What are the known faults?
What type of oils for engine and gearbox
Can I buy door hinge pins or is it a complete hinge if so is it the same as the 820 saloon
All comments welcome except the ones re my sanity!!!!!!!!!
Many thanks in advance
The T-Series is an excellent engine, very strong and reliable, but as with all engines, if it's abused, it'll misbehave. Though much less than other engines.

You'll probably want fully synthetic oil for the engine as it's getting on in years and if your uncertain about the last time the timing belt was changed, that's another thing you should have changed. Should be the same door hinges as the saloon, and the Vitesse coupe is an absolute cracker, so much better than the KV6 in terms of performance and reliability, such a classy car, so major signs of insanity.
 

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mg_zt_t
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I use 10-40 part synthetic (X-Power) from the spares counter of my former MG-Rover local distributor for my T16 turbos. I change it regularly every 6,000 miles and use the Unipart or Xpart Oil filter. Other filters are not so effective...

One thing you should check straight away. The lubricant level in the PG1 gearbox. Gearbox and differential seals wear with miles and that allows a slow but progressive loss of lubricant. Once the lubricant gets below a certain level, the bearings suffer. This means some regard the gearboxes as weak. I don't fully endorse this - any gearbox without proper lubricant will 'fail'. So top it up anyway - easy job with a funnel and about 50cm of garden hose...

If after assessing the car you decide it's worth keeping, drain and change both the engine and gearbox oils - Use MTF 94 in the gearbox - and as already suggested, change the camshaft drive/timing belt and auxillary drive belt too unles you're absolutely positive they've been recently renewed ... Not an expensive job on the T16s ... unlike some engines I could mention. Previous owners or sellers have been known to supply erroneous information here so if in doubt make a certainty of things and get them changed.

The engines in these cars are one of the best ordinary engines ever to leave the production lines.... even neglected ones can clock 150,000 miles before self destructing and well cared for examples can double that and even more....

The Coupe version of the 800 is a cracking looking car to my eyes with its timeless style and elegance.
 

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Would second that Brian. Had mine from near new and only now and 130k later have I had to take the head off due to an aux drive belt shredding and getting under the cam belt. The bores are in excellent condition. 200+bhp Power is good with a decent stainless exhaust that lets it breath a bit better. I always used full synthetic after I stopped letting the dealer service it.

Watch out for people turning up the boost! One time mines started really over performing but also cutting out just as you were passing someone and then I found a cracked waste gate connection hose. So it was over boosting then the overboost pessure sensor cut everything!

They are good on fuel too if you dont accelerate everywhere!
 

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This thread has made me really happy. Have been looking at 200 coupes for a while, when my dad recommended one of these. Put a deposit on a 91,000 miler in kingfisher blue today, and after hearing what you've got to say i can't wait to pick it up on Saturday. :petevick: Is probably the cleanest used car i've ever seen
 

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What to look out for:

Suspension components, ponderous handling. 800 Vit Coupes go through front suspension arms around 50K. Roll bar links need checking too.

Electrical problems are sometimes a hassle and normally (relatively) easy to find.

Engines are very strong. Watch out for oil leaks from cam carrier, sump or cam oil seals (much rarer).

Gearboxes are weak as the bearings in them are pretty cack. When I say weak though, one which is driven reasonably and the power used in the higher gears (e.g. not wheel spinning about in 1st which cains the box) will probably be good for well over 100,000 miles.

Lifting dash boards in the sun.

Rattles - Rattling door lock buttons common source.

Not much really. By this time they had sorted most things.

Good luck. Will be a classic one day.
 

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tha_416_pimp said:
This thread has made me really happy. Have been looking at 200 coupes for a while, when my dad recommended one of these. Put a deposit on a 91,000 miler in kingfisher blue today, and after hearing what you've got to say i can't wait to pick it up on Saturday. :petevick: Is probably the cleanest used car i've ever seen
www.sellyoakmotors.co.uk - got to be this one!!

I've been watching this for the past three months, but decided against something more practical.

Did you knock him down as £1995 was steep compared to £1275 (dealer price) as parkers suggests.
 

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G13SJC said:
www.sellyoakmotors.co.uk - got to be this one!!

I've been watching this for the past three months, but decided against something more practical.

Did you knock him down as £1995 was steep compared to £1275 (dealer price) as parkers suggests.
Haha might have been :run!:

To be honest i didn't know too much about these, so i wasn't sure about suggested prices. I was left some money, so wasn't overly bothered about haggling, and he wasn't prepared to go much lower. At least its got 12 months MOT, 6 months road tax and 6 months warranty, which isn't always the case when buying privately. Have i been ripped off then?

Did you look at the car at all? My dad seemed quite impressed with it, which is quite difficult. I'm picking it up on Saturday, and i can't wait
 

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DO NOT use a Fiamm oil filters, as they are not correct internally, and will starve the engine of oil. Looking from the front of the car, the front right hand corner of the head/block interface should be dry, but if its soaked in oil the head gasket oil seal rubber has split, allowing oil to leak. Not a disaster, but its a new head gasket to fix it, I've heard that "kirflinger" (however its spelt!) gaskets permenantly cure this problem, but the last time I did a head gasket, I used a normal one and just put hylamar sealant round the rubber..still bone dry after 5 years/65K miles. Also look out for oil leaks from the cam shaft seals, and the front and rear crankshaft seals. Check the power steering cooler pipes infront of the rad, and also the oil feed pipe to the Turbo, and any metal pipes to do with the cooling system. The rads are prone to rotting too, and if its the Vit, you need plenty of cooling if you get a move on! If its ropey, its worth changing as a precausionary mesure. about £100 ish for a new one. I would suggest putting some friction reducer into the gearbox to try and help make it last longer, they arn't the strongest of items!
Cheers
Cap'n Jim
 

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tha_416_pimp said:
Did you look at the car at all? My dad seemed quite impressed with it, which is quite difficult. I'm picking it up on Saturday, and i can't wait

I just saw it on the website and was very tempted. I needed something a bit more practical and cheaper to run. (I could not a quote for insurance on that vehicle due to the turbocharged engine)

It looked a very clean car on the three photos and I would have paid the asking price if the dealer wouldn't haggle.

Look after it and enjoy - they are great cars :)
 

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G13SJC said:
I just saw it on the website and was very tempted. I needed something a bit more practical and cheaper to run. (I could not a quote for insurance on that vehicle due to the turbocharged engine)

It looked a very clean car on the three photos and I would have paid the asking price if the dealer wouldn't haggle.

Look after it and enjoy - they are great cars :)
Thanks!

At the moment i am on my dad's insurance as a named driver (fully comp) until October, when i will switch to Direct Line. It was only £60 more than my 416i to insure, and i got a quote of £500 for myself fully comp from Direct Line which hopefully will be the same or cheaper when i take them up on it.

The car has some scratches and chips as you'd expect from a car of its age, and theres some slight rust on the passenger side door that i'm hoping to attack this weekend.

Apart from that, i gave the interior a good scrub and its running beautifully. Just did a trip to Newquay and back with no problems, and that included sitting in a jam on the M5 for nearly an hour. Although with how comfortable the seats are and the air conditioning, it was almost a pleasure!

Does anyone know a good place to look for bits and pieces for it? I could do with a couple of bits of dash replacing, especially the gearstick gaiter(sp?) and surround, and i'd like to get a good condition alloy wheel to replace one thats got a bit of bubbling (plus i've only got a space saver at the moment).
 
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Cap'n ZS said:
Theres a guy on Ebay does new ones for about £11. they are utter bast*rds to fit, but well worth the struggle in the end;)
They're easy - the knob unscrews and the gaiter just lifts out. If you need to transfer the mounting ring at the base, superglue works brilliantly.
 

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Cap'n ZS said:
DO NOT use a Fiamm oil filters, as they are not correct internally, and will starve the engine of oil. Looking from the front of the car, the front right hand corner of the head/block interface should be dry, but if its soaked in oil the head gasket oil seal rubber has split, allowing oil to leak. Not a disaster, but its a new head gasket to fix it, I've heard that "kirflinger" (however its spelt!) gaskets permenantly cure this problem, but the last time I did a head gasket, I used a normal one and just put hylamar sealant round the rubber..still bone dry after 5 years/65K miles. Also look out for oil leaks from the cam shaft seals, and the front and rear crankshaft seals. Check the power steering cooler pipes infront of the rad, and also the oil feed pipe to the Turbo, and any metal pipes to do with the cooling system. The rads are prone to rotting too, and if its the Vit, you need plenty of cooling if you get a move on! If its ropey, its worth changing as a precausionary mesure. about £100 ish for a new one. I would suggest putting some friction reducer into the gearbox to try and help make it last longer, they arn't the strongest of items!
Cheers
Cap'n Jim
Garage I got my last oil change done at fitted a Fram filter, will this starve the engine of oil?

Why did I get the garage to do the oil? Well because I have to get it changed so often I find it hard to allocate the time to do it sometimes.
 

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I think the biggest problem with the the fiamm filter is there is no non-return valve, so all the oil drains back into the sump, so when you start up from cold, it takes a few seconds to get oil to where its needed, causing unnecessary engine wear. Sign up with these guys, they know everything there is to know about Rover 800's. http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Rover800/
Cheers
Cap'n Jim
 

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Richard Moss said:
They're easy - the knob unscrews and the gaiter just lifts out. If you need to transfer the mounting ring at the base, superglue works brilliantly.
Its getting them to fit properly round the gearknob ring (ooooh errr!) thats a bit of a bollaxs ache!:)
Cheers
Cap'n Jim
 
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