[PetrolFeet]

Hello everyone,
I am a bigoted individual who thinks the MLS HG should be removed from all existence.
LONG LIVE THE ELASTOMER!!
Anyway, not why I'm here!

I've seen much info about fuel filters for the R75.
Some leak, and need a clip, some don't.
Also, there are different pumps.

Can anyone clarify which pump goes with which filter, or will either go with either?
My pump has two small finger loops, which filter should I have, and would the other one fit?

I need a new pump (it gets 12 volts but remains silent) how can I be sure I get the right one?
Can the filter be faulty (don't want to take it out if I don't have to, don't want to damage the seals).
Any help greatly appreciated.
I know a little bit about Rovers myself, so I'll try to help others where I can.
Nick

 

[gnu]

The in tank filter is on the lhs under the bench seat in the tank. When you remove it you can see whether it has a clip fitted to prevent it coming unscrewed (and losing pressure). If you check the 2 half’s are screwed tight it’s worth fitting a clip whilst it’s out for peace of mind. The pump is under the seat on the rhs. Look up on Rimmers to get the right one for your 75. But I’d carefully check whether it’s getting voltage and it’s non functioning first. I’ve not looked at a diesel, but I believe they have a filter under the bonnet as well.

 

[gnu]

Some pics in this thread (ZT petrol):

MG ZT Fuel Gauge Sticking

My MG ZT 1.8 Mk1 petrol gauge started playing up. Sticking and generally becoming untrustworthy. I filled the ZT up and added a dose of Redex. Drove the car around locally selecting the routes with speed bumps After a longer journey to London and back the gauge fell to ¼ full at around 250...

www.mg-rover.org

 

[PetrolFeet]

Cheers, Gnu, or should I say Guru!
Just one further question, as the pump only needs 2 wires (?) the other pins are for the senders (?).
Would you happen to know what the resistances should be for the two senders?
I think there's a fuel transfer problem, fuel getting stuck in nearside compartment.
(I've got the old filter / pump with finger loops so the Clip formally known as Orange won't be the problem.

 

[PetrolFeet]

I found out that the two senders on the fuel pump plug give two different readings.
If anyone else has this problem, try taking readings from both sides.
A large difference in ohms can indicate faulty senders, OR a fuel transfer problem.
This is from another source and is not verified. Let us know if you use this technique and if it works.

 

[PetrolFeet]

Problem is now solved, car now drives.
Didn't replace any parts except petrol.
Put the pump back in (had help to depress the pump when tightening the lockring)
Started first time.
Car had been parked on a slope and was close to empty, the pick-up for the pump may have been out of the fuel.
Odd thing is, no signs of fuel starvation before I parked her. Fuel gauge was above the red, but only just.
Fuel pump was running but I could not hear it. Maybe get another person to listen out for it while you crank the car over.
I now suspect a fuel transfer fault - the tank has a raised bit along the bottom and pipes are supposed to supply fuel from the non-pump side to the pump side.
Have got a gerry can and will carry it about everywhere from now on!
Always top-up the fuel before suspecting pump or filter fault!
There may be another related fault, watch this space! If it plays up again I'll let you all know.

 

[gnu]

Sorry for no response, I've been busy for the last few days and haven't looked in. I'm glad you got it sorted.

There has been a lot of discussion regarding the senders, one each side of the tank. They are basically variable resistors that read approx 163 - 5 ohms, full to empty. They are wired in series so their reading is not majorly affected by which side of the tank the fuel builds up on. The cars computer also smooths out the reading. I've noticed a higher fuel level on one side in my car, so it may be nothing to worry about.

I've had problems of inaccurate readings and personally dislike the overcomplicated design.

You can use the dashboard IPK function 19, sub function 6 to check the fuel level. It toggles through 1_6.0, 6.1, 6.2. I believe 6.0 gives the raw reading, 6.1 nothing and 6.2 the computer's smoothed reading. If a reading is _ 0435 this would suggest there is 43.5 litres in the tank. If there is a sender fault, it may read 2 6.1 or 2, and the fault can be checked with an ohm meter from the pins on the pump you illustrated.