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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just had this car through a basic service after buying it and it came back only needing an engine arm (mounting) which i knew about. Other than that i have been told the car is in great order for its age. I am concerned, perhaps paranoid regarding the reccomended servicing scheduling.

The invoice said that the air filter, polen filter, fuel filter and spark plugs need replaced according to the schedule record but the person doing the service felt it was a waste of money doing these as there was nothing wrong with the ones there.

Should you always do what the service record says or follow the advice of the garage? I asked about timing belt (as my last car was rendered useless whenit went) and again he said it should be done at 90,000 miles but again given costs (£1,000) said it wudnt be worth it.........i wonder what peoples opinion is on this and on servicing reccomended schedules in general?

Nothing has been replaced on this car so far and i would rather fork out money now or at a later reccomened stage rather than wait for a large bill due to something breaking down later. I know you cannot completely fortell whats going to happen in the future, but there must be some good advice out there!!!. Are there particular things to look out for in the future and/or change now or in the future before it goes wrong, particularly those with serious consequences........i.e. timing belts.......i am a complete novice but i ask as i have been stung before and would rather now prepare than wait!!!!.....i dont mind/small reasonable repair bills....just like to avoid the big ones by changing/updating parts as i should...

in anticapation many thanks.
 

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hi

i to have a 2000 classic se (cdt) tho
mine goin for full service next week
i allways keep my cars well services i only do about 10-12000 a year & still get mine done every year with a full oil service
prevention is best
thing is with thease cars now the value has dropped wr not going to get a lot in a trade in so its best to look after them keep them fully services & spend wats needed & keep them
 

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If you bought the car from a dealer with any sort of warrenty then you probably do not have any choice as to what is and what isnt serviced. To keep the warrenty in force the car would have to be serviced to the Manfacturers spec including MGR spare parts - not necessarily by an X Part dealer though - just to the scheulde and using MGR parts.

If you bought privately then really its up to you. I can see your garages point of view in some ways. eg I think spark plugs have a life in theory of 60k miles and would normally be changed at the 4 year service as per spec. However if you have only done 20k miles in the four years I would,nt change them either. Ditto pollen filters.

However where safety items are concerned I would be a bit more cautious. eg Brake fluid should be changed every two years I think and I would stick to that.

In other words safety items should be changed as per schedule. The rest is up to you. Remember not changing an air filter will only cost money in extra fuel at worst. Not changing a safety item such as brake fluid may cost a life.

The price quoted for cam belts (£1000) is at the upper end of cost for this job and I would expect your garage to be an X Part dealer for that. I am also assuming that your car is either a 2.00l or 2.5l V6 cos a cambelt change on the 1.8 is a lot cheaper.

There are lots of other places who will charge a lot less than the £1000 quoted. There was at least one thread on this forum within the last three weeks about a main dealer charging £285 for changing the belts.

Lates is a member on this forum and is in the coventry area. He does a great job and his charges are a lot less.

I think the problem you have is that you may not know the service history of your car. Cambelts on the V6 (either 2.00 or 2.5 )are due to be changed at 90k miles or 6 years whichever sooner. Your car is over 6 years old and therefore the belts should have been changed already.
If they have'nt been or you don'nt know if they have been then I would seriously consider getting them done ASAP.

Remember belts deteriorate because of time as well as use.

There are three cambelts to be changed. If any one of them lets go the engine could be seriously damaged and the repair costs or replacement engine could well be in the £2000 area.

Hope this is helpful

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
could i risk another questiuon?

thanks Dave, will consider your advice. it is a 2 litre and i do not know the service history. i bought it private as seen without much of a service history (risky yes but i got at a really good price so hopefully worth the risk).....apart from the cam belts as u say (this the same as timing belts?) are there any other areas i should look out for around the areas of risk and high price if ignored such as those u mentioned (brake fluid and cam belts)......any idea what i should expect to pay for replacing the cam/timing belts on the 2 litre in an independent local grage who can do the job?

i appreciate your time as i love the car and have every intention of looking after it

thanks a lot
james

If you bought the car from a dealer with any sort of warrenty then you probably do not have any choice as to what is and what isnt serviced. To keep the warrenty in force the car would have to be serviced to the Manfacturers spec including MGR spare parts - not necessarily by an X Part dealer though - just to the scheulde and using MGR parts.

If you bought privately then really its up to you. I can see your garages point of view in some ways. eg I think spark plugs have a life in theory of 60k miles and would normally be changed at the 4 year service as per spec. However if you have only done 20k miles in the four years I would,nt change them either. Ditto pollen filters.

However where safety items are concerned I would be a bit more cautious. eg Brake fluid should be changed every two years I think and I would stick to that.

In other words safety items should be changed as per schedule. The rest is up to you. Remember not changing an air filter will only cost money in extra fuel at worst. Not changing a safety item such as brake fluid may cost a life.

The price quoted for cam belts (£1000) is at the upper end of cost for this job and I would expect your garage to be an X Part dealer for that. I am also assuming that your car is either a 2.00l or 2.5l V6 cos a cambelt change on the 1.8 is a lot cheaper.

There are lots of other places who will charge a lot less than the £1000 quoted. There was at least one thread on this forum within the last three weeks abount a main dealer charging £285 just for changing the belts.

Lates is a member on this forum and is in the coventry area. He does a great job and his charges are a lot less.

I think the problem you have is that you may not know the service history of your car. Cambelts on the V6 (either 2.00 or 2.5 )are due to be changed at 90k miles or 6 years whichever sooner. Your car is over 6 years old and therefore the belts should have been changed already.
If they have'nt been or you don'nt know if they have been then I would seriously consider getting them done ASAP.

Remember belts deteriorate because of time as well as use.

There are three cambelts to be changed. If any one of them lets go the engine could be seriously damaged and the repair costs or replacement engine could well be in the £2000 area.

Hope this is helpful

David
 

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Hi James,

Prices for changing Cambelts vary a lot as you see from my previous post. Depends if you find somebody independant who is prepared to take it on and if they have done them before. I believe the book time for the job is about 6 or seven hours but that would be a main dealer. Independant would probably take longer (unless he did a lot of them Like Lates mentioned previously who I think gets it done in about 4 to 5 hrs). Probably would be best to find an independant who likes Rovers.

There are only a few things where preventative maint is required apart of course to those things on the service sheets.

1/ Plenum Drains (do a search on here under that heading - a lot of info will pop up) Between the engine and the passenger compartments there are two bulkheads and the space beween these is the plenum area. The main ECU is situated in this area. There are drains at the bottom of the area to prevent water collecting either from rain or car washing. If the drains get blocked, which they do from time to time, water collects and the ECU gets drowned. Expensive to replace. Its a 30 minute DIY job to check the drains. Do a search. All will be revealed.

2/ Brake Pipes from front to back of the car can corrode surpringly quickly. A little bit of cleaning up and coating with something like Waxoil will prolong their life a lot. Replacement I think is in the order of £200 +.

If I have forgotten anything I am sure someone else will be along to remind me.

The 75 has its faults like any other car. Things can go wrong particularly as they get older. If you read through the posts in this forum you will get a good idea of the common faults and their fixes.

Lastly, and this is my personal view and others may not agree, I think the 75 responds better to regular oil/filter changes at shorter than the recommended interval of 15k or 1 year. When I first got my 75 I was doing 15k per year. Ok annual service but in between I got the oil/filter changed every six months - 7.5k miles. The Auto Box if you have one needs a fluid change 60k miles or 4 years. I change 45k/3 years.

Hope this helps

David
 

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I agree with you David , Re: the more frequent oil/filters change..Mine is a 2litre and has done less tha 34k over7 years. The oil is always the same colour, never gets to black sludge state, which I am sure the engine benefits from.
34k over 7 years with annual main dealer service equals about 4,850 miles per oil change/ Whilst this seems OTT and the oil may appear have a decent amount of "life" left in it, bear in mind that oil is hygroscopic and will absorb atmospheric moisture to some degree, so regard it much as the timing belts with the degradations of time as much as wear, being a crucial factor.
Timing belts and renewing of, have until last year been a huge expense at main dealerships, partly because it was based on the "old" service charge model when the cars were a current production model and partly because the belt change regime consisted of other ancilliary service items such as pollen filter change etc etc .
Last year under this older service model my main dealer wanted over £600 for the belt change, this year they quoted £285 all in including a courtesy car.

Also further to the point of other likely expenses the brake pipes are mentioned. This is very true..and will be on any car whilst steel brake pipes are installed at build.
The cost for frnt to rear and rear crosspipes is about £200 as you say, the front set is about the same.....
Also the standard discs do not seem to last long..Mine had wear on front disc sufficient to merit a replacement at about 22k. Mind you, still on at 33.5K along with original pads.. ( and rear )
As for clutch exhaust alternator and other items needing replacement, I have needed to think about those yet......( You watch, all 3 will go pop next week)

But I have to say that the car has behaved perfectly and as required at all times.. A Bentley at Weddings and a V6 snarl and howl when you need it .
I dont regret a single penny I have spent on it.

Hope this also helps..
 

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Hello, I would really appreciate if someone could help by answering my questions:

Can the fuel flter of my MG ZT190 be cleaned or serviced or will I need anew one, if so does anyone have a reference number?

My garage diagnosed that the fuel pressure coming out of 5he pump is very low, do you think this could be a reason for my car not starting?

Thanks for your help guys

TAZI
 

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Hiya, The fuel filter is part of the fuel pump & not serviced seperately. The most likely cause of the low fuel pressure is the top loose on the passenger side of the fuel pump which is really just a swirl pot. It is a bayonet fit like a bulb & gradually comes loose with the fuel action. It can be screwed back together & either secured with a special clip from a dealer or drill (by hand!) a 1/8 hole a few mm deep & fit a screw.
 

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Hello, I would really appreciate if someone could help by answering my questions:

Can the fuel flter of my MG ZT190 be cleaned or serviced or will I need anew one, if so does anyone have a reference number?

My garage diagnosed that the fuel pressure coming out of 5he pump is very low, do you think this could be a reason for my car not starting?

Thanks for your help guys

TAZI

To answer your last question first - yes low fuel pressure will make starting difficult and if low enough prevent starting all together.

A common cause of low fuel pressure and hence failure to start is the fuel filter (in the MGR spares list as a fuel module) which over time can unscrew itself and fall apart.

The temporary fix for this is to screw it back together.
The complete fix is to screw it back together and fix a clip to prevent any further movement. The clip is available from X Part dealers and cost about £6.

The fuel filter and fuel pump are seperate items but both are installed under the rear seat. The fuel pump is on the drivers side and the fuel filter (fuel module) on the passengers side.

Before spending any money on new parts would suggest that your garage makes sure that the filter is screwed together since any unscrewing can cause low fuel pressure .
If you do require a new fuel filter (fuel module) they cost about £230 but I very much doubt you need a replacement.

If you fancy having a go at the filter yourself the following link will take you to a 'how to' . Its on another forum so you will have to register but its free. Its the second to last PDF file in the left column called 'Petrol fuel system failure'

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto

Hope this helps
 

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Thank you guys, I can't emphasis enough how helpful this forum is to keep me aware of things about my lovely ZT190, without your advise I would be spending a fortune. Here in Morocco, I've never seen any other MG around, it feels good to be the only one but at the same time scary if something goes wrong, no parts, no nothing, have to order all filters and other stuff from abroad.

Finally we got the car started this afternnon after loosing hope and thinking about ordering a new pump from Rimmer Bros in UK.

I followed the forum's advises and asked the garage to make sure the filter is not separated from itself which was not the case. We decided to open the filter and check if anything was preventing it from breathing, the inside of the filter was so black, we decided to wash it with petrol, so much black stuff was coming out =, it took us like 10 times 1 liter of petrol to wash it thoroughly. At the same time I was really hoping that the filter was the reason of low fuel pressure arriving at the engine but the mechanic said that with only 43000 kms, the filter should not be causing this issue.

Anyway, after we have pulled the pump on the right side (UK driver's side) we wanted to make sure all the hoses were well connected.... We put all things back very tight, checked the fuel pressure at the engine end, it looked good, I was happy to see that, the car started the first try, I couldn't believe that the filkter was causing this but I am really hoping we solved the problem once for all.

TAZI
 
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