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Discussion Starter #1
Well, as a few other people have had to do, I had to 'whip' the tank off my ZS a couple of days ago.

I use the word whip very carefully, as it's not as easy as you'd think!

If you're going to do this, make sure you have the following handy:

- 2x 13mm spanners for lock nuts
- Trolley jack
- Axle stands
- 4L parrafin to clean the tank out
- Dremel for cutting the fuel tank hangers if needed
- M8 threaded bar, for making new hangers if needed
- 4x M8 nuts for replacement hangers
- Big vice and 'manly' hammer for making the new hangers
- Pliers for removing pipes from the tank connections


Here we go...

1. Make sure you have only a little or no diesel left in your tank.
Jack the rear of the car up, and support with axle stands. I mounted mine underneath the rear trailing arm.

2. At the back end of the tank, you'll see the two hangers, with a pair of locknuts on each. Spray each with some penetrating oil, and attempt to undo the lower nut. If the nuts are free enough to move, start loosening them and lowering the tank down onto a trolley jack.
If not, then cut through the hangers with a dremel or equivalent, above the locknuts.

3. With the tank supported on the jack and lowered about 3-4 inches, remove all connecting pipework. Unclip the wiring to the fuel level sensor, the cable connection is on the rear subframe.

4. Lower the tank to the ground, and remove the fuel take-off system, being careful not to damage the fuel level sensor. Make sure this doesn't get any dirt on it, leave the assembly on a plastic sheet or equivalent.

5. Pull the tank out from under the vehicle, and rinse with parrafin vigorously. Once you're satified the tank is cleaned out thoroughly, replace the fuel level / fuel take-off assembly. Then place the tank on the trolley jack, and raise the tank until it is about 3-4 inches from it's resting level. Connect all fuel lines and the fuel level sensor wiring. Finally raise the tank the last few inches.

6. If you managed to get the locknuts off, simply re-tighten them up. If not, then cut approximately 200mm of M8 threaded bar, bend the end into a 'candy-cane' shape, and hook this where the original hangers were. Thread one nut up the new hanger, then continue to fit the tank as you would if you were using the original hangers. Make sure the tank is properly supported and tight.

New hangers, with nuts fitted:



7. Lower the car, add some diesel then loosen the bleed screw on the fuel filter. Pump the priming bulb until fuel bubbles out of the bleed screw, then re-tighten it. Start her up and away you go!

Of course, this job is a whole lot easier if you have a slave to help you with it... :p



Mat
 

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rover_400_95_99
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In the last photo it seems someone is working under the car with it supported only by a trolley jack!

Absolute NO NO.......Only takes a second to put an axle stand under that could save your life.


Forgot to mention....very good & helpful guide:)
 

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Make sure you have only a little or no diesel left in your tank.
so it's OK if it's full of petrol, then? ;)

If someone's Mk2 ZS fuel tank were to rust away, how much could he expect a reasonable charge to be to replace it? Can you still buy new ones? If so, are they rust-proofed? :lol:

EDIT please listen to guru safety advice. I do hope that's not a cigarette out of shot (no-one is allowed to say whether they can see a fag in the picture :lol:)
 

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Q1. Some, but not all. ZS180 are like hen's teeth. Not sure what the physical differences are, it might just be capacity.

Q2. Don't think so.
just as well I've had mine waxoyled, then...

if the 180 is different, it can hardly be bigger. I'm down to less than ¼ after only 200 miles...
 

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Why you have to remove the tank then?
My fuel pump has gone bad...sounds like roller coaster going up a lifthill! CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK CLICK.

Ran out of petrol, so not good! lol Just clicks when i put more in.

The car idles fine, just under hard acceleration, it struggles!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The car was supported by something else, can't remember for the life of me what though. We had the other support under the rear of the car near the towbar area.

No smoking was involved, neither me or Jamie have the money or inclination to be able to have such a habit! :lol:
 

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montego
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That must be tough getting rid of that fuel tank! In my case it was only the tube that we removed.. it was an old car so it was leaking when we check of it.. Anyway! cooL! thanks for this!
 

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- M8 threaded bar, for making new hangers if needed

If not, then cut approximately 200mm of M8 threaded bar, bend the end into a 'candy-cane' shape, and hook this where the original hangers were.


New hangers, with nuts fitted:


If I am understanding that correctly, that hook/loop end of the bar is simply hooked over into a hole....nothing else securing it. If so......how on earth does that hook/loop stay in the hole and not ever detatch itself!? I have images of going over bumps and the fuel tank assembly shifting upwards. Just doesnt seem like much in the way of securing it to the car!?
 
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