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This is driving me mad & costing a fortune. My wifes 96 77000 mile 416 failed its MOT. The garage did not have test equipment so I contacted the local Rover garage. Their wating time was 3 weeks! But the suggested a new cat & lambda.
These made no difference. I found a local specialist & he tested the car. He found no faults with the Mems, Lambda, CAT, temp sensor, compression etc etc.
He suggested new plugs & rotor arm, flushing oil & then fresh 10/40.
I did all the above & the result is that it is now just about ok at idle but still way too high at 3000 rpm. I seem to have come to a dead end as they say next step is to remove the head & investigate further which I don't have the time or money to do.
It runs like a clock, never needs topping up between changes & doesn't rattle or smoke.
Any ideas for a cure? or what could be causing the problem?
 

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Hi,

Your problems seem to be exactly the same as mine! I have a 1997 Rover 600SLi (51,000 miles) thats really drinking the juice - I'm getting between 15/20mpg.

For more details have a look at my thread "1997 Rover 620SLi Very poor MPG"

If someone can explain to you whats wrong with yours will you let me know (No one seems to be replying to my thread?) Something I said?

Cheers Andy.
 

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I have a 416 aswell and slight problems with emissions as my car scraped through its mot last week, but me petrol consumption is way to high!! So if you find a solution please let me know, what is the car like on petrol? Could it not be a blocked air filter - something simple like that?
 

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Andy7 said:
Hi,

Your problems seem to be exactly the same as mine! I have a 1997 Rover 600SLi (51,000 miles) thats really drinking the juice - I'm getting between 15/20mpg.

For more details have a look at my thread "1997 Rover 620SLi Very poor MPG"

If someone can explain to you whats wrong with yours will you let me know (No one seems to be replying to my thread?) Something I said?

Cheers Andy.
You got same problem as me then!!! my car only doing 25 mpg and its a rover 416 - 1.6 l, what engine size and milage is yours? my car has only done 37k so dont think its that and nobody replying to my thread either :(
 

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stevepilborough said:
You got same problem as me then!!! my car only doing 25 mpg and its a rover 416 - 1.6 l, what engine size and milage is yours? my car has only done 37k so dont think its that and nobody replying to my thread either :(
Hi Steve,

Duno if you read my full tread? but my car is a 1997 Rover 620SLi 51,000 miles 2.0 ltr. Have a look at my full tread for more details!

Cheers Andy
 

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poorpeet said:
This is driving me mad & costing a fortune. My wifes 96 77000 mile 416 failed its MOT. The garage did not have test equipment so I contacted the local Rover garage. Their wating time was 3 weeks! But the suggested a new cat & lambda.
These made no difference. I found a local specialist & he tested the car. He found no faults with the Mems, Lambda, CAT, temp sensor, compression etc etc.
He suggested new plugs & rotor arm, flushing oil & then fresh 10/40.
I did all the above & the result is that it is now just about ok at idle but still way too high at 3000 rpm. I seem to have come to a dead end as they say next step is to remove the head & investigate further which I don't have the time or money to do.
It runs like a clock, never needs topping up between changes & doesn't rattle or smoke.
Any ideas for a cure? or what could be causing the problem?
On top of all the expense for repairs is your car also drinking the juice? how many mpg are you getting? and did the mpg improve when you had all the work done?
 

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It seems to be a common problem at the momnet so here what I'd check. Firstly does the car get upto temperature when at speed? If the temperature drops as you speed up then the thermostat needs replacing. The temperature should stay around the middle all the time. Also after a good hot run what speed does the engine idle at? if it is over 1000 rpm then whip the plugs out and see what colour they are. if they are sooty then you probably have a failed temperature sensor (seperate sensor on the K series form the one that powers the gauge). If it fails the car always thinks it is cold so applys the choke all the time.
 

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E_T_V said:
It seems to be a common problem at the momnet so here what I'd check. Firstly does the car get upto temperature when at speed? If the temperature drops as you speed up then the thermostat needs replacing. The temperature should stay around the middle all the time. Also after a good hot run what speed does the engine idle at? if it is over 1000 rpm then whip the plugs out and see what colour they are. if they are sooty then you probably have a failed temperature sensor (seperate sensor on the K series form the one that powers the gauge). If it fails the car always thinks it is cold so applys the choke all the time.
Remove the air filter and take it for a long drive, (do so at ur own risk but I do it) If your doing more miles to the gallon it is an air filter problem.

Does sound like ur fuel air mix is all wrong would explain all of your low mpg and high Co2 levels.

Carl
 
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Also, remember that the Lambda sensor is heated - check that the heater supply to the sensor is giving 12v at all times. However, £5 for a temp sensor is a good starting point.
 

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its common problem with the K series I was told by local MOT man when on the first run mine failed

His solution -

sit the car at 2500 rpm for a couple of minutes - basically get the thing hot -

the ECU then clicks over to closed loop running and CO dropped by a factor of 100!!! IT was in the cold running mode hence why CO was though the roof.

He also said its a common trick for dodgy garages - who will then proceedure to charge the owner for a full service, ECU diagnostics and ofcourse a coolant sensor

I assume its an out of spec coolant sensor - that causes this problem - make sure you replace the right coolant sensor (dont want to change the instrument pickup one)- they are only £10 or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It's not a sensor/temp/fuel/compression problem. These were all checked & found to be working as advertised. No idea about the fuel consumption as it's my wifes school run car.

The favorite theory so far is that it's a problem with the cam followers "jacking up" poss due to sludge or the wrong grade of oil.
In view of the improvement after flushing & putting in fresh oil this seems to make sense.
What I'd like to know is: Is this a common K series problem? What can I do to cure it if it is.
 
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