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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I’ve got a very strange issue with my otherwise trouble-free Rover 25.
This issue started back in October where I had a new key cut for it. (I no longer have the original) it started by not locking or unlocking until a few tries with the fob button.

Then I had an episode where it refused to start (dash lights on, electrics on, but no engine, just a whirring sound for a second) next day it started fine so I took it to the garage, who found nothing wrong, then an auto electrician who ran a full diagonistic and didn’t find anything wrong.
Couple of weeks later, it starts refusing to lock with the fob (drivers door lock will only lock drivers door, but idk if this is normal) had the same starting issue the other, but this time I managed to get it going but had the whirring sound of death again this morning, so now I’ve got a car that won’t lock or start :(

Any help much appreciated!
 

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Did you verify the smallish electronic bit is still inside the fob, the original one I assume (given only the blade is new)?
Which year is your car from and which shape your fob? Because there are 2 different systems the Lucas 5AS one (1994-2003 - fob nearly rectangular, both buttons on the same level) and the later Pektron SCU one (round fob, buttons on a diagonal).
It's an immobilizer problem. If your fob isn't recognized, the red light switches on on the dash and the immobilizer prevents any start attempt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did you verify the smallish electronic bit is still inside the fob, the original one I assume (given only the blade is new)?
Which year is your car from and which shape your fob? Because there are 2 different systems the Lucas 5AS one (1994-2003 - fob nearly rectangular, both buttons on the same level) and the later Pektron SCU one (round fob, buttons on a diagonal).
It's an immobilizer problem. If your fob isn't recognized, the red light switches on on the dash and the immobilizer prevents any start attempt.
Hi there, thanks for your reply.
The car is a 2002 model with the Lucas fob, which is not original, came with the new key. I know the immobiliser makes a ‘nee naw’ sound but I haven’t heard it with the whirring?
 

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Methinks the fob electronic chip should be the genuine one to work fine with the car.
If you haven't got the original fob(s) / chip(s) and are using another one coming from elsewhere, I assume that the chip should be paired to match with the car immobilizer, with a T4 or maybe pscan. Ortherwise there may be trouble. I'm sure somebody here could be more precise & helpful.

Have a look here:
Pektron SCU BCU
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Alright guys so quick update. Had a guy come round to test the key and run diagnostics. He is 90% sure the ECU unit is on its way out which would explain the non starting. Anyone who has this problem, it could be the ECU.
 

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I've heard of that recently. But why could the ECU on its way out? Maybe a problem of blocked drain & ECU becoming damp & flooded? Have you got any trace of moisture?
I heard as well of an ECU being saved thanks to an air dryer. But be careful not too hot & not too close...
 

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Saws Tuning. Steve Abbott is a very nice chap and very helpful. You can ask on my behalf, Arnaud from France.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks both or your replies, wish I read them sooner because I just bought a new ECU kit xD, but no, there’s no draining issue, the ECU’s dry but thanks for the recommendation of Saws Tuning, will they fit the ECU for me?
 

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Thanks both or your replies, wish I read them sooner because I just bought a new ECU kit xD, but no, there’s no draining issue, the ECU’s dry but thanks for the recommendation of Saws Tuning, will they fit the ECU for me?
It's an easy job for the good reason that I did it myself alone! :LOL:
Steve Abbott told me he could improve my ECU, i.e. tune it a little and offered me pop & bang (I refused, I'm not that young! :p) and improved torque at low revs and so on. It cannot be done very much to improve an 1.4 but anyway I was willing to try. Hence he bought a good spare ECU, remapped it and send it to me on the continent.
Then I had to swap my genuine one for the one he sent me. Easy peasy: switch off your battery, unplug your ECU and the bolts (2 in my memory?) and same job in reverse to fit the 'new' one. You may take off some elements nearby to give you some more room if it helps (fuse box maybe). Switch back your battery. Job done.
I must say the difference was very sensible: speeding up much quicker and more torque as well. I was very pleased and very grateful to Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It's an easy job for the good reason that I did it myself alone! :LOL:
Steve Abbott told me he could improve my ECU, i.e. tune it a little and offered me pop & bang (I refused, I'm not that young! :p) and improved torque at low revs and so on. It cannot be done very much to improve an 1.4 but anyway I was willing to try. Hence he bought a good spare ECU, remapped it and send it to me on the continent.
Then I had to swap my genuine one for the one he sent me. Easy peasy: switch off your battery, unplug your ECU and the bolts (2 in my memory?) and same job in reverse to fit the 'new' one. You may take off some elements nearby to give you some more room if it helps (fuse box maybe). Switch back your battery. Job done.
I must say the difference was very sensible: speeding up much quicker and more torque as well. I was very pleased and very thankful to Steve.
Excellent, sounds like a nice easy job that even me, an engineering illiterate could do!
Thank you so much for your help buddy, I really appreciate it!
 

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It's an easy job for the good reason that I did it myself alone! :LOL:
Steve Abbott told me he could improve my ECU, i.e. tune it a little and offered me pop & bang (I refused, I'm not that young! :p) and improved torque at low revs and so on. It cannot be done very much to improve an 1.4 but anyway I was willing to try. Hence he bought a good spare ECU, remapped it and send it to me on the continent.
Then I had to swap my genuine one for the one he sent me. Easy peasy: switch off your battery, unplug your ECU and the bolts (2 in my memory?) and same job in reverse to fit the 'new' one. You may take off some elements nearby to give you some more room if it helps (fuse box maybe). Switch back your battery. Job done.
I must say the difference was very sensible: speeding up much quicker and more torque as well. I was very pleased and very grateful to Steve.
Can I asked how much he charged for the ecu? And does it not have to be coded to the car?
 

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Can I asked how much he charged for the ecu? And does it not have to be coded to the car?
It was around £25 for the ECU in 2016 plus postage. You may add the price of the work itself.
Steve made for me his first immobilizer free ECU (suppressing the electronic component from the card), hence no longer any problem to use with any car & whatever fob & key you may have! :p
 

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It was around £25 for the ECU in 2016 plus postage. You may add the price of the work itself.
Steve made for me his first immobilizer free ECU (suppressing the electronic component from the card), hence no longer any problem to use with any car & whatever fob & key you may have! :p
That’s pretty cool, something I may look into thanx for the info 👍
 

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