MG-Rover.org Forums banner

Rover 220 turbo engine problem?

2 reading
6.7K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  neil240z  
#1 ·
I have a 1994 Rover coupe Turbo and i was wondering if you guys could help me with a problem just arisen with my car.I was driving along as normal and my engine started to hesitate ,miss and slowly began to lose power.I first thought turbo trouble but no smoke etc seen from exhaust now the car is sitting at idle with this hesitation to the engine and with very little power.Could it be the coil gone (please God i hope so) or could anybody enlighten me please.The car has fsh,oil changes every 3000 miles and has 83000 on the clock if this helps

Please hurry put my mind at ease

Or by the way look forward to speak to you all in the near future first post and all ;)
 
#8 ·
Cool, so thats illiminated that one :D

have you got a boost guage at all in there? Cause you could check if its losing boost. if it was a sensor, it'd usually tend to just go suddenly. A slow leak in the charge piping would cause what you're describing.


I did look for a coupe turbo when i was 19, but gave up trying to find a good one, so went for the GSi Turbo instead :D nice and stealthy car :)
 
#9 ·
No boost guage mate. Power was lost slowly over say 3 miles car really bad to drive now nearly starting to konk out have to hold the revs high to say 2500 to stop her passing out.Car is really slow i would say couln,t get her over 60 now power loss 80 percent really worried pal
 
#11 ·
From the experience I've had with my car, I can tell you that there could be any number of reasons why this is happening - relays / sensor in the ecu etc / turbo wastegate / rotor arm / dizzy cap etc etc - the list goes on...

I would get a boost guage first, to see what's going on with the turbo....mine had a problem with it and made it lose power (no chance of getting over 5k rpm and 80+ mph was a no no).

The tell tale boost guage said it was running 3.5 to 4 psi....as a result, the fuelling etc was buggered....

Where you based matey....if ure near, you could plumb in my boost guage as I havent got it fixed in place yet....

not much help i know, but a boost guage is a good addition and can let you know whats going on...

Matt
 
#12 ·
Ermm.....

If it is hesitatiing at low RPM and has low power etc, could be valves(but this would cause other probs like bad starting), timing belt slippped(unlikey but if tensioner bearing failed it's possible), but sounds to me like it might be ECU related.

I am wondering if possibly the MAP (Manifold Pressure Sensor) is stuffed, and therfore load is not being correctly detected hence timing and fueling stuffed.

As mentioned in the previous posts, there is probably a whole bunch of stuff it could be.

The rover 800 haynes manual has some info on the T series engine, including Fault finding (which to be honest is very generic and a bit useless in haynes manuals). There is also a haynes manual for Engine managment systems which covers MEMS (again not exactly complete, refers mostly to implementation on K series).

I would suggest that the best bet is to search for an independant (or main dealer if you don't mind the price) who can check ECU fault codes from MEMS. This should either detect or eliminate any serious Engine Management prob.

If ECU is ok, then could be something as simple as inlet manifold gasket air leak (which screws up fueling if big enough).

I can suggest a few first pass test / Inspections:

Check all the vacum hoses for splits or disconections. Particularly the one gong to the MEMS ECU (this feeds the MAP sensor, infact you can do a really ruff test on the sensor by diconnecting the hose from the inlet manifold and then gently sucking on it, hardly scientific but if it is working to some degree you will hear the engine note change)

Check for problems on the HT leads could be one of the leads, or the king lead is discharging to the block. (also check dissy and rotor for signs of arching / wear)

listen for a whistle / whine of air being sucked into holes in inlet manifold gasket (not easy to detect, sometimes spraying something like WD40 around the gasket helps in detection because in momentarily seals the hole and engine note changes).

Make sure all sensors are connected, particularly the temp sensors and throttle pot.

Check fuses make sure it isn't something dumb like blown fuel pump fuse.

Check for mayonaise in oil or oil in water.

If there are no obvious split hoses or broken wires then just check the timing belt, like I said I dounbt this is the problem but better safe than sorry. This can be done fairly simply.

I can tell you how to do it, but you would be better off buying the haynes book, cos it has pictures. Basically you just need to lock the fly wheel (there is a small hole to do this just below and to the right of the turbo, I usually usa a 6mm allan key to lock it).
Once the fly wheel is locked take off the plastic cam belt cover and check the cams. You are looking for alignment of the Inlet / Outlet marks stamped into the cam sprockets.
 
#13 ·
I would suggest that the best bet is to search for an independant (or main dealer if you don't mind the price) who can check ECU fault codes from MEMS. This should either detect or eliminate any serious Engine Management prob.
You could try all the things above and be no wiser when locating the fault - you might have spent a few quid on leads, dizzy cap, haynes manual and not have the answer...

In the experience I've had (the fuelling is still not right on mine - advised the injectors on these engines sometimes cause a problem) I got an ecu check done first - can cost anywhere from ÂŁ35-ÂŁ50...

This should eliminate a few issues. The poor performance could be coming from the fuelling - if it's not fuelling right, it wont create the right level of exhaust gases and so the turbo won't spin like it should and that would bugger the performance.

Bottom line - I'd get it plugged in...

let me know how you get on - I hope the solution pops up quickly for you - it's been 2 months getting where I am now on mine!!!!!
 
#14 ·
I am pretty sure this problem is not Turbo related (at least from your description). Turbos don't do anything at tick over, so if it was that it would drive fine until it came on boost.

even if boost is reduced the ECU should provide correct fueling based on the ECU map, so you would expect lower power, but should still run ok, and a NASP 220 has a top speed slightly better that 60mph.

Had a recent problem like this (kind of) with a Yamaha R6 prior to a race at oulton Park, turned out to be a knacked fuel pump.

Effect was, difficult starting, poor tickover (sounded sort of ok but would die regularly) and no power. It would however still rev in neutral. Basically it was getting just enough fuel to keep going, but as soon as there was any load on it, it died. The fuel pump was still going, but not properly.

It might just fit in with the slow reduction of power, as the fuel rail depresurised, you slowly lost power, then it just stayed bad.

To be honest, I haven't got a clue, so many things can go wrong.

All I can do is wish you the best of luck and offer to look up any info in my various range of rover manuals etc if you have any ideas.