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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Recently my Rover 214 developed a 'rumbling' noise at 50+ mph and on overrun. It seemed to be coming from the gearbox or drive shafts as it went once the clutch was disengaged, even if the engine revs were kept up. I checked the gearbox oil and it was the correct type and at the required level. There is no clicking from the cv joints at full lock, and minimal play in the drives shafts. After the usual consultation at mg-rover.org I suspected something in the R65 gearbox, perhaps input shaft bearings.

I sourced a gearbox at the local breakers. On checking it over I noted it didn’t look like it had run for some time and it had a cracked clutch fork arm so I took it back and exchanged it for one which looked a bit better. I then got on with the job, using cooper1200’s instructions (clearly no point in writing any, as this is an excellent set).
Gearbox/clutch removal tutorial - 200/25/ZR R65 gearbox


Instead, here is a picture diary of the job:

1. Drain oil from old gearbox (note swarf on the magnetic drain plug – not a good sign!):

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2. Strip parts from gearbox side of engine bay to disconnect/ give access to gearbox:

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3. Strip suspension on both sides and remove drive shafts (breaker bar and penetrating fluid might be necessary if it hasn’t been apart much):

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4. Support engine and gearbox on jacks undo 2x engine mounts and tilt to left.


5. Remove old gearbox -

5.1 Lower gearbox to ground with trolley jack:

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5.2 Remove gearbox from under car:

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5.3 Swap better bits and sensors and fit new seals onto replacement gearbox:

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6. Fit new clutch kit -

6.1 New v’s old clutch:

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6.2 I found a bit of plastic tube the right diameter to align the clutch:


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7. Refit gearbox, not forgetting to put the thrust-bearing on the shaft and check the fork engages properly with it:

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8. Raise engine and gearbox on jacks and refit 2x engine mounts.


9. Assemble suspension on both sides and reinstall drive shafts.

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10. Reassemble parts in engine bay and connect up.

11. Fill gearbox with fresh oil.

12. Check for leaks/ errors and road test.

Road test went well and new gearbox was nice and quiet.

Problems I found whilst stripping/ repairing were:
a) Corroded battery tray bolts.
b) Seized exhaust bolt.
c) Lower ball joints difficult to break – I ended up buying a tuning fork ball joint cracker (the one I have doesn’t work on them as there is little room to access the top of the bolt). I also learnt that there is quite a lot of rubbish written on the internet about ‘easy ways to crack them’!
d) Questionable quality replacement gearboxes from the breaker – I’d probably go reconditioned if the car was under 10 years old, unless I had a known good one.
e) Worn engine mount which needed repair/ replacing.
f) Refitting the drive shafts was a bit of a pain.

All in all, my ‘weekend job’ ended up lasting a bit longer whilst I found the parts I needed and the time to do the repair!
 

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You can make the clutch alignment tool out of a piece of round wood batten.


To get the two diameters you want just wind some electrical tape around the batten in the appropriate places.


Quick to make and costs virtually nothing.




COLVERT.
 
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