[zxzx123]

Hi I have recenty replaced the oil seal on the back of the exhast camshaft. I have now got a massive leak, it originally had a front oil seal, which would leak, so I replaced it with the correct, unfortunatly the use of a drill to puncher the old seal like the haynes manual says is a very very bad idea, its far too tight and has resulted in the cam being damaged beyond repair. I would recommend using a centre punch to remove it for people who are going to do it themselves.

I now need to get a cheap replacement exhast camshaft does anybody know where I can get one, my Dad is saying that it is a bad idea to get a second hand one, because it can result in destroying the engine if it is damaged, is this correct?

Also I have started to take the engine apart to get the damaged one out. I have however come to the point where I have the head off, by some bugger has overtightened all the 8mm camshaft bearing holder bolts, honestly if I were to aliken how tight they are done up the are done up to the same strength of engine mounting bolts. Where they should be only done up to 10Nm. So I have come along and have the task of undoing them the bolts are all burring. What do I do, I am very worried that then enigne is going to be written off at this point?

I really at this point just want to find the cowboy who did the work on it last and say some not very nice words to them. Honestly people don't seem to realise that the smaller the bolt the less you can tighten them.

Oh well I would appreciate any comments, no matter how small.

 

[Dr Dave]

You don't need to lift the head off to replace the camshafts!

 

[misterreliable]

. .you use an electric drill to create that damage? I think the interpretation is for the use of a small hand twist drill!

 

[zxzx123]

Yeah sort of a sore point the damaged cam, next time I will do it myself

I'm not taking off the head just the camshaft carrier

 

[rover416si]

I ll probably have an exhaust cam for you, although I am not too sure if that's what you need. Can't really say more as i don't understand exactly from your description. Can you take a picture of the damage and post it here so we could give more advice?


Btw why did you take the whole head off???? disregard this...got me

 

[zxzx123]

Sorry I don't think that I wrote the original message very well. I basically went to replace a camshaft oil seal a number of days ago, which I did what I though sucessfully. The repair job however highlighted that the exhast camshaft was damaged beyond repair after removing the replacement and seeing that there was a large groove out of it. So I ended up having to take out the camshaft out.

I read up on the subject and started to take the engine to bits from the top down to the camshaft carrier. I however was hamppered by the fact that some of the bolts were overtightend and damaged. Hence the second part of the first message asking how to get stuck bolts off. I ended up doing a little research on the subject from the sockets point of view, because I was un-happy with poor fit of the sockets and the bolt heads. I found an article which stated that the best socket for getting bolts off are a 6 face surface drive sockets. FYI The 12 surface ones are produced for ease of fitting, I aquired one and it was just pure joy when it managed to remove all the bolts, even the ones which we had used an impact driver on. If you are going to buy hex sockets I would recomment the extra money and get six surface - surface drive sockets you can tell that they are surface drive because they do not have flat sufaces by curved one inside the socket.

So I managed to get the camshaft carrier off, I did all the necessary cleaning up and didi a ring around for a new camshaft which for a brand-new one was 155 quid plus vat, but I managed to source a second hand one for 30 quid, which is in better condition then mine. So we went down there the following dam, I got out the cam and the bloke beinhind the counder saim hmm k series 16 valve either 1.4 or 1.6. Now I was impressed, so we bought one off him, with a leaving remark that if you use silicon to seal the head you will end up seizing the engine, apparently the use a sprecial sealant which is soluable in oil. Few that could have been end game

I now have all the ingredient to fix the camshaft. I however notice that one of the hydrolic tappets was siezed, so I ended up prizing it up. So I now need a new one 14 quid plus vat.

This job is getting expensive!

 

[zxzx123]

I forgot to ask was I supposed to take all the tappets out when I took the camshaft out. I have conflicing information. The two soureces of information both say that you are supposed to invert, but one says that the tappets are supposed to be place in oil.

Also When I get the new tappet to I have to charge it with oil, and what does this entail?

 

[1955diesel]

To prime a tappet, hold it under oil and squish it a couple of times although the only way to get all the air out is to run it in an engine for up to 15 minutes at moderate revs.
How did you know the old tappet was seized? Never come across this before. I would not change anything unless it was making a noise. When you take old tappets out, it is normal for some to be soft and others hard, depending on how long the engine has been stopped.
By the way, you can use silicon to seal the carrier, but you must be VERY sparing as excess will block oil ways.

 

[Dr Dave]

Just leave the hyraulic tappets in place, they'll be fine.

 

[rover416si]

How did you know the old tappet was seized?

This exactly what i was going to ask too

 

[[email protected]]

When you put the sealer in the cam carrier make sure you only put a thin bead at the main oil ways run round through the carrier.
The tappet if taken out are supposed to be inverted but we have had alot of problems at work when we have done this with the tappets expanding and leaving the valves open so not getting any compression.
If you can leave the tappets in the head I should do and when you have the head all back together the tappets have to be run in at 2000 - 2200 RPM.
The main point is make sure you dont block the oil ways when putting the sealer on!

 

[zxzx123]

Hi I knew that the tappet had seized becuase it was lower the all the others and all the others I could rotate it with my finger tips, this one wouldn't move at all, I tired using a magnet to remove it, but all to no avail. I ended up having to get some grips and use bruet strength to prize the tappet out. It now doesn't go back, but I can fit the others in it's place.

I hope that every thing works when I eventually do get all the bits, all I have to worry about it settin the camshafts correct and alighning the crankshaft, I unfortunatly lined up the camshaft sprokets 180 degrees out if you have any more notes on this. I am going to set it up as follows

1. Remove the auxilary drive belt sproket by placing the car in 5th gear and getting a helper to hold their foot on the break and removing the bolt

2. Remove the spark plugs so there is no compression when I do move the crankshaft

3. Take out of gear

4. Aligh the cranshaft sproket with, so both timing marks are either side of the mark on the oil pump.

5. Place bead of oil soluable sealand on the camshaft and brush around.

6. oil camshaft bearers

7. Place camshafts on head

8. bolt on camshaft carrier in bolting sequence.

9. fit oil seals, oiling lips first

10. fit camshaft sprokets and light up to the correct poisition

11. fit cam belt ......

12. monkey all the other bits on

13. start up and cry, well I think that I will rotate the cranshaft before starting to make suree that I haven't buggered the setting of the cams up

Any suggestions or adive is welcome!!


Thanx for the advice on charging the tappet.

 

[1955diesel]

Your new cam seals may be directional, make sure you get them in the right places.
Search this forum for more info -

 

[Dr Dave]

Indeed they are directional - fit the red seals to the rear and the black ones to the front journals of the camshaft.

 

[Dr Dave]

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