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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,
I'm having a bit of a mare with my '52 plate 200/25. I've been ignoring a gear selection problem for a couple of weeks in the hope it would go away, it hasn't! It's been a pig to try and get it out of reverse and then as it worsened 5th was becoming even more difficult to select. I've finally had a look at it at what I can see is that the gear select mechanism is hitting the sub frame cross member (I think that's what it is called) and so it won't move sufficiently to select. I put a jack under the trans and raised the engine an inch or so and gear selection is no longer a problem - until I lower the jack.

So, despite not being easy to tell, I think the engine has dropped due to the rubber bush possibly collapsing on the near side top engine mount. Does this sound feasible, is it common, what do you think?

Any help appreciated as the car is currently immobile and the sun is shining which I bet it won't when I need to work on the car.

Thanks in advance.
 

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It is possible for engine mount to worn and needs replacing. I would not say it is common, but like every replacable item, they all have its life span.
 

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Which model is your car? If it's a 200 with an R65 gearbox, the gearbox side engine mounts (square type) are hard to source. I ended up repairing my mount some years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It is possible for engine mount to worn and needs replacing. I would not say it is common, but like every replacable item, they all have its life span.
Rimmer have all the components in stock, I was curious as to whether or not people had experienced similar to myself.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is possible for engine mount to worn and needs replacing. I would not say it is common, but like every replacable item, they all have its life span.
When you say common do you mean the inability to select reverse due to an engine mount collapsing?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, I cannot remember that many members had problems of gear sellection due to engine mount collapsing, but it can happen.
I can order the near side one from Rimmer, it looks a pain in the neck to remove as the battery tray is in the way, only tool that looks to be possible is a 15 mm spanner which isn't part of most sets (American vehicles utilise 15mm more than us) so I'll have to purchase one.

What about the off side with the hydra mount? I've no idea how these function, is it as simple as removing and replacing?

Thanks.
 

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......only tool that looks to be possible is a 15 mm spanner which isn't part of most sets (American vehicles utilise 15mm more than us) so I'll have to purchase one.
MG Rover used quite a number of nuts and bolts of the more logical metric sizes of 15, 16 and 18mm, none of which are found in many UK market spanner sets (largely because the UK has never actually gone over to metric sizing - simply using the nearest metric equivalent to the common imperial/AF sizes: 3/8"=approx 10mm; 1/2"=approx 13mm; 11/16"=approx 17mm; 3/4"=approx 19mm). The US has only recently started more commonly using metric, having stuck with imperial through thick and thin - the changing attitude over there I think largely because they now (like us) have such a huge amount of imported stuff which is almost entirely sized in logical metric sizes. It seems to be only the UK that persists with using metric equivalents of imperial sized bolt heads.

The hydramount is simply a rubber block with a an oil-filled reservoir sealed within it. Unless it has perished or got damaged and has leaked the fluid out, it probably isn't necessary to replace it. If it is showing signs of deterioration or perishing of the rubber, it might be a good idea to replace it before it does fail. They are relatively straightforward to remove/replace, being a lot more accessible. However, failure of these is pretty rare.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
MG Rover used quite a number of nuts and bolts of the more logical metric sizes of 15, 16 and 18mm, none of which are found in many UK market spanner sets (largely because the UK has never actually gone over to metric sizing - simply using the nearest metric equivalent to the common imperial/AF sizes: 3/8"=approx 10mm; 1/2"=approx 13mm; 11/16"=approx 17mm; 3/4"=approx 19mm). The US has only recently started more commonly using metric, having stuck with imperial through thick and thin - the changing attitude over there I think largely because they now (like us) have such a huge amount of imported stuff which is almost entirely sized in logical metric sizes. It seems to be only the UK that persists with using metric equivalents of imperial sized bolt heads.

The hydramount is simply a rubber block with a an oil-filled reservoir sealed within it. Unless it has perished or got damaged and has leaked the fluid out, it probably isn't necessary to replace it. If it is showing signs of deterioration or perishing of the rubber, it might be a good idea to replace it before it does fail. They are relatively straightforward to remove/replace, being a lot more accessible. However, failure of these is pretty rare.

So, this only leaves the near side mount to replace. Hopefully, this will lift the engine sufficiently for the gear mechanism to clear the subframe when selecting reverse. If not I'm stumped.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi. Did you replace the mount and did it solve the problem (as I'm having exactly the same issue)?
Thanks.
I won't lie, no I haven't do anything about it yet. The car is used daily, I park it with consideration so that I don't have to reverse out of a space but when I do, it takes seconds to pop the bonnet, straighten the rose joint, close the bonnet, knock it out of reverse and continue.

Ideally, I'd like to have a look at someone else's car to see how much clearance there is between the rose joint and the cross member. If anybody is willing to have a look at their car and report back I'd be extremely grateful.
 
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