[JoCoLo]

My 96 plate VVC finally got through another MOT this month, I took it for a drive but it was awful, the ride is diabolical. I decided to take her off the road again and replace the hydragas. I originally planned to get the spheres reconditioned but on removal I found the two rears are badly corroded. The seals were long gone and I suspect they have not been working at all for some years. I have decided to take the plunge and get Mike Satur replacement suspension in stainless steel. In the thread below I will show the stages I am going to take to do this. Part one is removal of all the old parts. I’ll put photos up at weekend as I’ve already removed two hydragas units.

 

[mowog73]

I installed Mike Satur's FCCKit in both of our Fs about 4 years ago and we are very happy with Mike's coilover kit. I look forward to seeing and reading about your install progression. Good luck!

 

[JoCoLo]

I installed Mike Satur's FCCKit in both of our Fs about 4 years ago and we are very happy with Mike's coilover kit. I look forward to seeing and reading about your install progression. Good luck!

That’s good to know, it does seem the best way if not the cheapest way.

 

[JoCoLo]

Here are the units I’ve removed so far, front not too bad but the rear is looking scrap.

 

[JoCoLo]

I tried the rear suspension on my Avensis, easy to bounce, tried it on the MG and with a lot of force it moves a bit.
Some videos here to show .
Avensis

MG

 

[Julian Foulger]

I tried the rear suspension on my Avensis, easy to bounce, tried it on the MG and with a lot of force it moves a bit.
Some videos here to show .
Avensis

MG

As I would expect...... Even when new in 1998, my MGF's suspension was next to impossible to move.

 

[mowog73]

That sphere looks to be well past its best before date.

When I installed the front turrets on my wife's car, I found that the turret was hitting the top of the inner fender. It turned out that the rubber in the original subframe mounts had soften and was allowing the subframe to move upwards a bit. I ended up replacing all the subframe mounts on both cars.

 

[JoCoLo]

A quick before and after photo, the arrows show what’s going. Yellow is the Hydragas, blue the damper and red the top arm.

 

[JoCoLo]

Progress, but it took ages. Corroded 10mm bolts on the cover for Hydragas and had to remove ECU, air filter and other things to get access to the 13mm nuts at the rear. They are very very hard to get to.

 

[JoCoLo]

Now I have to try and remove these 6mm beauties that hold the bearing in place on the upper arm. Clearly some corrosion evident.

 

[mowog73]

When it comes to installing the rear turrets, I found it easier to drop down the subframe on the LHS to gain better access.

For the nuts on the upper arm, try heating them with a propane torch, or you might find that a nut extraction socket is needed.

Amazon.co.uk

 

[Chris T]

I’ve been undoing rusty nuts and bolts with good effect with a combination of

Erbauer Bolt & Nut Remover Set 6 Pcs

https://www.lubricantsuppliers.com/product/bdx-01-bulldog-bdx/

 

[JoCoLo]

 

[JoCoLo]

Finally got one corner done. Was awful, so many bolts and nuts rounded or rusted in place. Still now to clean and paint and get ready for the new bits.

 

[JoCoLo]

Cold yesterday and today, barely above freezing but I managed to get another corner almost done, this time the front n/s.

 

[JoCoLo]

Of course doing these jobs exposes other issues and I found a large rust hole in the longitudinal member. I’ll try and remove it tomorrow and weld it.

 

[JoCoLo]

Just put these on eBay, won’t be needing them anymore. Hopefully out of 8 four will be suitable for reconditioning.

 

[JoCoLo]

Finally got the near side all ready for fitting the new kit. Had to take so much off I’m wondering if I’ll ever get it all back together again,