Having just replaced the front and rear badges on my MG TF160 I thought I'd make a guide as a "how to" so others can benefit 
Firstly, what you will need:
1. Can of Clear Lacquer
2. Dental Floss
3. Plastic spatular or similar
4. Something to remove grease (I used t-cut)
5. Soft cloth
6. 2x new badges
![Image]()
Note badge part number: DAB000160 - for the TF you need two the same (both 70mm). They are reasonable at £12 each from any x-part dealer. Mine came from Rimmer Brothers.
Firstly I used the clear lacquer to build up another layer on the new badges to help stop them fading like the originals. The Halfords own lacquer cost me around £6.50 and worked a treat.
Build up as many coats as you can be fussed to add, giving a couple of light sprays each coat. Make sure you wait 10 minutes between each coat until the lacquer is touch dry. I added around 5 coats on each badge, returning to add more coats whilst i was removing the existing badges.
Next, you need to remove the old badges. Many people have said that heating the badges helps remove them, but frankly there was NO way I was getting a heat gun or hairdrier anywhere near my baby... and I actually found you just don't need it.
The easiest way was to use dental floss (I used mint out of preference...) and put this behind the badge and use a sawing motion to cut the self adhesive pad out from behind the badge. It requires a little patience, but it only took about 5 minutes to get each badge off. Just keep sawing with the floss until they basically fall off of their own accord.
TIP: If you find that the floss keeps snapping, just double it up under the badge. I found this helped a lot and speeded the process up.
The pins on the back of the badge look scary but are mearly there for positioning and are not / should not be glued.
When the badge is removed there is likely to be part of the adhesive pad left, I removed this with some rubbing of my thumb, and a nice young lady with long nails A bit of perseverance and you can peel the remainder away. There is no need for any heat, paint stripper, sand paper etc etc...
The front badge is recessed into the bumper, but all you need to do is to help the floss under the edge of the badge using the plastic spatular. It's a bit of a fiddle at first, but gets better the more you cut through.
Now just use a soft cloth and something to remove the grease. I used a tiny amount of t-cut.
When you are happy that the lacquer on the new badges has hardened enough (touch dry, or over night if you can manage that... I couldn't) simply peel the backing from the adhesive pads they come fitted with and gently press into place.
Job's a good 'un!
Now step back and admire your shiney new badges!
![Image]()
![Image]()
Firstly, what you will need:
1. Can of Clear Lacquer
2. Dental Floss
3. Plastic spatular or similar
4. Something to remove grease (I used t-cut)
5. Soft cloth
6. 2x new badges
Note badge part number: DAB000160 - for the TF you need two the same (both 70mm). They are reasonable at £12 each from any x-part dealer. Mine came from Rimmer Brothers.
Firstly I used the clear lacquer to build up another layer on the new badges to help stop them fading like the originals. The Halfords own lacquer cost me around £6.50 and worked a treat.
Build up as many coats as you can be fussed to add, giving a couple of light sprays each coat. Make sure you wait 10 minutes between each coat until the lacquer is touch dry. I added around 5 coats on each badge, returning to add more coats whilst i was removing the existing badges.
Next, you need to remove the old badges. Many people have said that heating the badges helps remove them, but frankly there was NO way I was getting a heat gun or hairdrier anywhere near my baby... and I actually found you just don't need it.
The easiest way was to use dental floss (I used mint out of preference...) and put this behind the badge and use a sawing motion to cut the self adhesive pad out from behind the badge. It requires a little patience, but it only took about 5 minutes to get each badge off. Just keep sawing with the floss until they basically fall off of their own accord.
TIP: If you find that the floss keeps snapping, just double it up under the badge. I found this helped a lot and speeded the process up.
The pins on the back of the badge look scary but are mearly there for positioning and are not / should not be glued.
When the badge is removed there is likely to be part of the adhesive pad left, I removed this with some rubbing of my thumb, and a nice young lady with long nails
A bit of perseverance and you can peel the remainder away. There is no need for any heat, paint stripper, sand paper etc etc... The front badge is recessed into the bumper, but all you need to do is to help the floss under the edge of the badge using the plastic spatular. It's a bit of a fiddle at first, but gets better the more you cut through.
Now just use a soft cloth and something to remove the grease. I used a tiny amount of t-cut.
When you are happy that the lacquer on the new badges has hardened enough (touch dry, or over night if you can manage that... I couldn't
) simply peel the backing from the adhesive pads they come fitted with and gently press into place.Job's a good 'un!
Now step back and admire your shiney new badges!
