MG-Rover.org Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
600 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Gas Gear Auto part Engineering Wood
Tool Household hardware Cylinder Nickel Gas


Small amount of corrosion on the bolt and it becomes almost impossible to remove. Alternator out to change the diode pack. The stupid corrosion added a good hour to the job. lots of wd40 a taps with the hammer. Unfortunately the space in the engine bay means you can only get a 2 inch swing on the hammer. Lots of taps, + lots of wd40. tapping in and out again until it came free. a good clean and plenty of copper grease when I re-install it.
My car lives inside. Left longer, this bolt would be a total mare!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
605 Posts
View attachment 138213 View attachment 138214

Small amount of corrosion on the bolt and it becomes almost impossible to remove. Alternator out to change the diode pack. The stupid corrosion added a good hour to the job. lots of wd40 a taps with the hammer. Unfortunately the space in the engine bay means you can only get a 2 inch swing on the hammer. Lots of taps, + lots of wd40. tapping in and out again until it came free. a good clean and plenty of copper grease when I re-install it.
My car lives inside. Left longer, this bolt would be a total mare!
View attachment 138213 View attachment 138214

Small amount of corrosion on the bolt and it becomes almost impossible to remove. Alternator out to change the diode pack. The stupid corrosion added a good hour to the job. lots of wd40 a taps with the hammer. Unfortunately the space in the engine bay means you can only get a 2 inch swing on the hammer. Lots of taps, + lots of wd40. tapping in and out again until it came free. a good clean and plenty of copper grease when I re-install it.
My car lives inside. Left longer, this bolt would be a total mare!
That was so typical of the times- I mean the bright coating to help prevent corrosion. First time I saw those bolts was on a Volvo we bought back in the early eighties. I was pleasantly surprised but not of the body panels. The problem with the Mg alternator, exhaust and oil filter housing is the fact it’s exposed to the worst of weather that we can throw at it. Plus, as described, the access and to and micro swing you can get, even if you did cut the ring spanner down as I did. Bugger of what should be a half hour job including jacking and supporting.
 

·
Registered
'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
Joined
·
9,647 Posts
I had exactly the same issue when I had to replace the alternator on my ZR a few yeaers ago (although there is rather more room to get at it on that than there is in an F or TF!).

I think I sprayed the bolt with anti-seize before I refitted it.....

....at least, I sincerely hope I did!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,349 Posts
I changed the alternator on my 24 year-old MGF a few months ago. I have aircon so the alternator is at the top of the engine. Quite easy to remove all the bolts and little/no corrosion to my surprise.
 

·
Registered
MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
Joined
·
2,114 Posts
I've (my brother) only just fitted an alternator to one of my TF's, I don't want to take it back off just yet!!
 

·
Registered
2002 MG TF VE51FTF
Joined
·
290 Posts
interesting remark from Julian the A/C cars have it on top of the engine, does that throw up the possibility of a mod, how is it driven anyone got a piccy?
 

·
Registered
2002 MG TF VE51FTF
Joined
·
290 Posts
Thank you Julian very quick off the mark.
Looking at the pictures it might be doable, the adjuster is at the wrong angle (I think) to work efficiently, but if the alternators are interchangeable (are the mounts the same?) the adjuster on the current one might be utilized in some way. Belts are available in various lengths and if the exact one is not avail you could no doubt use an A/C adjuster as a jockey wheel.

The biggest problem I see is trying to do this in situ you really need an engine on the bench to play with and iron out the problems, sadly as I have neither presently its a non runner for me.

I also just had the thought that although it moves the alternator to a better position it's not really more accessible as you would have to remove the engine cover for service. Easier and more comfortable yes but more accessible probably not.
 

·
Registered
'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
Joined
·
9,647 Posts
The alternator is identical for both air-con and non-air-con applications.

It would certainly be possible to mount the alternator higher up on a non-air-con TF (would just require the casting for mounting it fitting to the upper part of the block - threaded holes are already there) and if you found a suitable pulley and method to mount it where the alternator used to be, you could then benefit not only from the less exposed higher mounting position, but also use the normal belt and tensioner for the air-con setup.
 

·
Registered
2002 MG TF VE51FTF
Joined
·
290 Posts
Thanks that is very interesting a long time ago I found a site that listed belt types and lengths available off the shelf but can't for the life of me remember where. My memory may now be kicking in it might have been a belt manufacture AC Delco or some such amazing what typing it triggers in your memory.
I think it may work directly to the crank pulley (if nothing in the way) my only concern is the belts would be relatively close to each other near the alternator and I have no idea how much they whip or flex in use (if at all). This would also mean not having to source A/C parts which I imagine are maybe scarce and therefore expensive.
This appears all too simple to me but might be worth a look over winter when she just sits there certainly not now with the sun shining.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top