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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,
I think ive driven the guys on the 75 forum mad. I'll apologise in advance.
I have a 2001 75 CDT Con SE
Up until about 6 weeks ago it started fine, but its now developed an out of the ordinary warm starting problem whih has gotten worse.

If i go out in the morning when its cool, i turn the ignition on and can here the fuel pumps whir, and the car starts.. i then drive a while, turn the ignition off, wait 10 secs or so, then turn the ignition back on and theres nothing from the fuel pumps.. the warmer the weather and car gets the worse the problem gets.
I sit and turn the ignition off and on and off and on until i hear the pumps come to life, then the car starts, and runs fine until the next time its switched off.
I've put a meter to the under bonnet pump, and when it doesnt whir, there is no power to it, when it does, there is..
I've taken the glovebox out and shorted pins 2 and 8 on the fuel pump relay and the pumps come to life, but only when they feel like it with the ignition.

Please help me :(
Steve
 

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This might sound stupid, but are you turning the ignition off completely (ie back two clicks, or even better, remove the key)? It won't restart otherwise.

This always catches me out if I (embarrassingly) manage to stall and then try and restart without switching back to 'off' first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nightmare

Yeah,
Its a problem with the fuel pump relay not being energised, looks like an ecu problem, broken wire or dry joint somehwere.

Pumps come alive sometimes when its cool, less times when its warm.

Driving me up the wall.
 

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I personally dont think its an ecu problem. If it was solely the power to the LP pumps then the car would at least cough a little when trying to start. To me it sounds like a sensor problem. The ecu thinks there is a problem somewhere in the system so shuts off power to the LP pumps and doesnt allow the injectors to do the biz or any of the other required systems.

So personally im thinking its a sensor fault rather than ecu or wiring.

Thats my opinion. Had it on T4?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Starting :(

Revol,
I got the same symptoms as yours, when the ignition is turned and you can here the hum from the fuel pump its starts. But i have to sit turning it on and off and on and off until i can hear the pumps come to life.

I've tried a different relay for the fuel pump with the same outcome.
Put a meter over the relay when the ignition is on and it only energises when i can hear the pumps, it doesnt always, as if theres no signal getting to it.

Had it on T4 and the rover dealer diagnosed a dodgy fuel pump.. which is crap.. if i short out pins 2 and 8 on the fuel pump relay the pumps work fine..everytime.. so not the pumps.
Also diagnosed and intermittent immob fault..but said he thought that was showing up because the fuel pumps werent getting power.
Pulling my hair now !
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Strating :(

p.s
I've also replaced the cam sensor.
But its not getting that far.. its a problem getting power to the pumps.. maybe i should try another relay in the fuel pump relay, just to test it again.
 

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Have you got a spare key you can try using? I wonder what the nature of the immobilser fault was, they should have more detail than it just being an immob fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Starting :(

Matt,

I only got one key with the car and they said it was an intermittent imob fault that didnt return a specific code.

Would the imob stop the fuel pumps from activating ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Starting probs

Matt,

He just said that he thought the fact the pump was faulty would cause the immob error.. but the fact that the pumps arent faulty blows that out of the water.
He recommended i changed the pumps, which i'm glad i didnt now.. although still have solved the problem.
Charged me £52 for that testbook experience too
 

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Failure to start again! + injectors

Just seen the thread. I too had a similar problem for two years with my R75 CDTi. During this time had a Cam sensor changed twice and a fuel pump replaced. After failing to start after a car wash, a break down recovery suggested changing the key or replacing the battery in the key. I opted for the former and touch wood not had the problem since.

Just had mine serviced 70K and now misfiring (post service, but also misfired last summer!, temp?) Garage say injectors but I like to sort out the cheaper options first, so tried Forte, about to change fuel supplier (Current Texaco)any other ideas anyone? If not where does one find cheapest injectors?

Cheers Eccs
 
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