R600 Shock Absorbers
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I was (and in future will be) in the same boat (800). I managed to find a last pair of new NOS front coil springs. What I'll do if these give up or get lame I do not know. Same thing with shocks. I couldn't cross reference the Honda/Acura Legend parts with those of Rover, so only thing left was to get some last pair of Sachs. Monroe, Lesjöfors, et al. were all NLA. Unfortunately it seems our cars are heading the way of the dodo, unless larger group buys are viable for re-manufacturing. I think I'll hold on to the old original ones and see whether it's possible to revise them somewhere.
We'll have to get creative in the long run, I guess.
We'll have to get creative in the long run, I guess.
The situation seems to vary greatly from one component to another. I wanted some rear brake disks a while ago; they were on offer everywhere at low prices. It's quite different with some other parts, where some things are getting harder to find.
Yeah, that is exactly the experience I have too. Easy stuff, like brake discs/pads and most bearings seem to be quite readily available. If you need a very model specific part like coils or shocks it's a complete other story.
Looking forward to your post whether the Monroe ones fit and drive the same as that's valuable data to have
Looking forward to your post whether the Monroe ones fit and drive the same as that's valuable data to have
The story continues....so the ebay seller asks me give him time to find two replacements. A couple of weeks go by and two Monroe shocks turn up, unfortunately one has the wrong part number. The supplier says that doesn't matter both will fit.
Turns out the wrong number is intended to fit a 600 diesel (as distinct from my petrol 620sli). So, petrol - diesel, does it matter? I discussed it with my good friend who runs the garage I use when any job is too tough for my aging body and he said send them back and I think he's right. Ebay guy NOT happy!!!!
Anyway, I have two more Monroes coming from another source, but costing about £30 more.
Turns out the wrong number is intended to fit a 600 diesel (as distinct from my petrol 620sli). So, petrol - diesel, does it matter? I discussed it with my good friend who runs the garage I use when any job is too tough for my aging body and he said send them back and I think he's right. Ebay guy NOT happy!!!!
Anyway, I have two more Monroes coming from another source, but costing about £30 more.
Geez, what a fuzz for just a few shocks. Yeah, some parts are quite hard to come by... Looking forward to hearing how you like the shocks (if they deliver the right ones, that is). Currently busy myself as well with other stuff on my daily 827 (LPG/GPL conversion, among other things). Have worked everything out and now the hands-on work needs to be done. It would save me more than half in cost for each refill, which will easily earn me the install back.
So the weather is warming up and the new shocks (bought in November) need installing (assuming I can find them ). I've never done them before, and I'm maybe getting a bit old for this kind of stuff.
I have a good mate who runs a garage and, while l like doing my own stuff, I try and see my limitations. What I don't want to do is start doing it, get stuck, and end up asking him to finish it.
Reading upon rear shock installation, there's some work involved in removing interior trim to gain access to the tops. There's a real need to soak (well in advance) the bolts on the bottom ends in penetrant to try loosen them. I've done all the shopping for parts and maybe I should just do that prep work so to reduce the time he needs and then let him do the hard bit.... or shall I have a crack at it. I'd need to buy some spring compressors.
Of course, the front shocks will need doing at some stage and then those wheel arches edges will def need doing this year.
). I've never done them before, and I'm maybe getting a bit old for this kind of stuff.I have a good mate who runs a garage and, while l like doing my own stuff, I try and see my limitations. What I don't want to do is start doing it, get stuck, and end up asking him to finish it.
Reading upon rear shock installation, there's some work involved in removing interior trim to gain access to the tops. There's a real need to soak (well in advance) the bolts on the bottom ends in penetrant to try loosen them. I've done all the shopping for parts and maybe I should just do that prep work so to reduce the time he needs and then let him do the hard bit.... or shall I have a crack at it
. I'd need to buy some spring compressors.Of course, the front shocks will need doing at some stage and then those wheel arches edges will def need doing this year.
Well guys (is there anyone left on this sub-forum?), I'm continuing to work towards replacing the rear shocks and still not decided whether I am too damn old to do this or not. I've already got all the parts, but my mate at the garage will happily do the job if I want.
I've found a YouTube video showing a guy doing the job on the 93-98 Accord and it did not look too hard, but he had bought a combined spring and shocker assembly, so he never had to do any spring compressing
. Both the Rover and the Accord workshop manuals show the shocker and spring coming off the car in one assembly, and get compressed on the bench using a "special tool". I've bought some bits to make the special tool (not really very special, but much safer than the "on the car" compressor tools, and no risk of the spring escaping).
Any inputs most welcome.
I've found a YouTube video showing a guy doing the job on the 93-98 Accord and it did not look too hard, but he had bought a combined spring and shocker assembly, so he never had to do any spring compressing
Any inputs most welcome.
Looking at the Honda/Rover Service manuals, the only "special" tool is the one shown in the attached PDF. I now have the materials to investigate assembling that tool (only a few £'s worth). That's used when the strut is off the car, and the design would not allow the spring to escape.
Looking at the old threads on this forum, there are quite a few asking questions about which shockers were the right ones for different models, or which brands to buy. None of them discussed how to do the change (does this imply it was very straightforward???) . There's nothing in the Rover/Honda Workshop manuals, or the Haynes or that YouTube video that makes it look really hard to do. It does not require the use of a spring compressor on the car; that would be very off-putting
One reason for thinking about doing it myself is that it will give me chance to deal with any rust which becomes visible/accessible.
I wouldn't attempt it until the weather improves, so I don't need to make quick decisions. I've started soaking the bolts in penetrating fluids. I've done such a lot of of my own maintenance over the years, I don't like handing it over (one foot in the grave?) ... but I may do.
Looking at the old threads on this forum, there are quite a few asking questions about which shockers were the right ones for different models, or which brands to buy. None of them discussed how to do the change (does this imply it was very straightforward???) . There's nothing in the Rover/Honda Workshop manuals, or the Haynes or that YouTube video that makes it look really hard to do. It does not require the use of a spring compressor on the car; that would be very off-putting
One reason for thinking about doing it myself is that it will give me chance to deal with any rust which becomes visible/accessible.
I wouldn't attempt it until the weather improves, so I don't need to make quick decisions. I've started soaking the bolts in penetrating fluids. I've done such a lot of of my own maintenance over the years, I don't like handing it over (one foot in the grave?) ... but I may do
.So, if the chap next door offered to lend you the tools, are you saying you'd do it?
If my copy of the off-car spring compressor works, I reckon the hard bit may be removal and replacement of the bottom end of the shocker. I believe its a captive nut and that might have to be ground off, but I am soaking those nuts and the bolts weeks ahead of doing it. Access with the impact gun looks possible. I've already got replacement nuts and bolts. When replacing, the bottom of the shock needs to be aligned with the top mount plate and the holes on the chassis and that needs doing as best possible while it's off the car (hence the paint marks on the diagram of the compressor).
If I do one side and struggle, I can take it to the garage to get the other side done, honour intact on account of my great age
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No, I still would not do it because I am not keen to do that job on open public car park. I do not have garage or yard in which I can do things on my own pace, so it must be done within one day. However, if you are willing to take a shot, have the confidence and tools, I do not see a reason why not.
You may well find that the rear springs don't actually need a great deal of compressing to be able to safely release the top plate - whilst I realise it is a smaller lighter car, the rear springs on my MG ZR could almost be pushed down far enough by hand! The rears certainly won't be under anything like as much compression as the fronts (which have to bear the weight of the engine as well as the extra load under cornering).
Yes, I think that is true for the rears on the 600; that when the body is raised, there's very little compression in the springs.
@Roverlike, the circumstance you describe would be a show-stopper for me also. I have a double carport, so can take as long as I like over it. including dealing with any corrosion or any other problem which becomes apparent..
Well, more money splashed up the wall of this awful car (which I shelled out £1450 just 20 years ago!) I've just bought the shocks for the front now. Couldn't find a pair of Monroes (like I got for the back) so went for a pair of KYB's from Auto Doc.
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