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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Haven’t had time to do much lately, so no new news. Gonna try and do the plug removal/pics and the exhaust manifold gasket over the next few days.

Just wondering if I should or need to use threadlock on the new studs going into the engine block???
 

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I wouldn't bother with thread lock personally as:

1) (Of course) the manifold retaining nuts will be turned clockwise to tighten them, the same direction as the studs. Are the nuts a self locking type, if yes, nothings going to move through vibration anyway. If no, you could consider using temporary/removable thread lock on just the nuts.

2) They will end up 'rusted' tight through galvanic corrosion in a year or so anyway lol

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 · (Edited)
There is enough room to slide the exhaust manifold back off the studs for gasket replacement without dismantling the rest of the system.

I seem to remember that I gave mine some support from underneath with a small jack at that time so as to not stress anything in the system. I am going back 6-7 years ago though, so the memories are a little faded...

The system should also hinge down a little as well, which should give you the room to remove and/or replace your studs.
Okay, so just been out to have a tinker with this exhaust manifold - made sure I had the correct combination of socket/extension/torque wrench to retighten before undoing anything....I can access all nuts (just about) with various combinations, however there seems to be a BIG stumbling block in backing the manifold off the block. If you look at the picture below, you’ll see what I mean....the down pipe has about a maximum of 1” to move back before the pipe itself hits part of the frame.....I don’t think 1” is enough even to back it up off the studs, let alone clean up both mating surfaces and replace studs/reassemble......

Ideas folks? - ‘cos what I’m thinking is that the manifold needs to be unbolted from the downpipe, too.....just cannot see a way NOT to remove from the manifold from the downpipe and still be able to pull it away from the block to change things.....

 

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I have no suggestions but I can tell you that on my 1995 F, I can move the exhaust manifold back sufficiently to allow me to get the manifold off of the exhaust studs and remove the exhaust studs from the cylinder head.
 

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I have no suggestions but I can tell you that on my 1995 F, I can move the exhaust manifold back sufficiently to allow me to get the manifold off of the exhaust studs and remove the exhaust studs from the cylinder head.
Same here Stevie.

Is it possible to remove it from the hangers to give you more 'wriggle room'?
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
I really not sure......in the pic, the tip of the tape measure is touching the downpipe, it’s an inch away from the subframe? - either that or something else, but whatever it is, I can’t see that removing from the downpipe hanger would give more room, in my eye, it might let the assembly sit lower but the downpipe would still sit tight against the metal structure that is an inch away from it.

Is the older F structurally different from a 2001 F in that area?
 

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They are somewhat different. But what I think you will find is that when you unbolt the exhaust manifold, that 1" between the exhaust pipe and the subframe will magnify itself into at least a couple inches of movement up where the studs are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
They are somewhat different. But what I think you will find is that when you unbolt the exhaust manifold, that 1" between the exhaust pipe and the subframe will magnify itself into at least a couple inches of movement up where the studs are.
Up, you say? - here’s me thinking that it should drop down and back??. Should I be trying to back the manifold off the studs and then lift it up above the studs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Worth removing the old studs by the two- nut method, before removing the old gasket? Replace with new gasket and wind in the new studs by the same method, before tightening the manifold using the new nuts.
That’s a very good idea, Austin. I think some of the studs will come out with the nut seized on anyway. The only thing I’m really concerned about is getting access to clean both mating surfaces for the new gasket....pretty difficult to see the head as it is, let alone with the manifold somewhat in the way
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
One thing I did notice today whilst checking around the exhaust manifold, where it meets the block, on the underside of the manifold, it was covered in thick oily gunge that seemed to be leaking out from the underside of the manifold.....needed a little mirror to see it.

Dunno if that’s significant of anything in particular or not....just that it seemed very messy directly under where the manifold attaches to the engine......
 

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The new potential issue, coupled with the space problem that you seem to have, I would certainly unbolt the manifold from the downpipe.

That way you will be able to get everything out of the way to see exactly what is going on with both 'problems'.

It doesn't look like it is rusted solid, so it shouldn't take too long to get it all out of the way. You will then have easy, free access for the manifold stud replacement and a great view of anything else that may be going on in that area.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
I suppose total removal of the manifold would be the best option, the only problem I foresee with doing that is access to undo/retighten the 6 downpipe bolts. I haven’t got the facility to get under the car and as such, trying to get a torque wrench on them and a spanner on the bolt to retighten them looks physically impossible....even possibly a two man job, one under, one above. The Toyosports system I have does not have the benefit of the OEM system where the bolts are held in position by the manifold itself, so if I don’t have access to both nut and bolt, I’m presuming I won’t be able to torque them up properly.....
 

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Who fitted the system? - if its somebody local could then slacken them off, then you drive home?

Is anyone available to help you for a few minutes?

If you will buy these fancy exhaust systems... lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
MGRMM (Dave & Kayleigh) fitted the TT and Toyo a few years back now. I guess if push comes to shove, I can take her down to my friendly garage - they’ll let me utilise either a ramp or jack & stands to get underneath. I’d probably have to take her down there, leave her overnight and go back the next day as the drive down there would mean working on a VERY hot exhaust system.....and I don’t fancy hanging around waiting for it to cool down sufficiently to work on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #140 ·
Not had much time to do anything to rectify things lately....I have made one rather odd discovery though!! I’ll explain.....

Normally, I’d get home from work, park the car on the driveway and leave it maybe 2-3 hours before going out, starting her up long enough to just drive her into the garage where she sleeps......obviously, next morning is usually when all the fun starts with this ‘issue’ of spluttering, bad idle, backfiring for a good 5 minutes or so until she’s reached a certain temperature and ‘cleaned her throat’ so to speak.

Now, the other day I decided to put her straight into the garage upon arriving home as it was piddling down and I didn’t fancy going back out later that evening.

Here’s the odd bit.....next morning, no issue!! - she started up fine, idled from 1100 down to 875 ish without trying to cut out - no backfiring, no problems....

I’ve repeated this every evening since and have barely had any problems when starting from cold the next day.

What could this phenomenon be attributed to? - I can only think that previously when I’ve been starting her up for a minute or two to garage her, she has kind of ‘flooded’ herself perhaps and the next day, this manifests into the issues I’ve been having.

What do you guys reckon?? - any input greatly appreciated, as usual.
 
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