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the console that holds the speedomitor etc has come loose at the top and is now vibrating anyone give me any hints on how to fix it???

Plus having terrible problems with my hard top leaking in water from the drivers side some time it's fine then when i take it off and put it back on it seems not to seal properly and wooosh a load of water comes through anyone else with this problem ???
 

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fecae2000 said:
Plus having terrible problems with my hard top leaking in water from the drivers side some time it's fine then when i take it off and put it back on it seems not to seal properly and wooosh a load of water comes through anyone else with this problem ???
If it is dry sometimes and wet others then it must be the way you put it on, surely. Having said that, many people have reported leaks resulting from window adjustment. The windows and seals can be adjusted (dealer or DIY) to make the car water tight but it can take a few goes. Some people find that after getting the softtop dry they get leaks from the hardtop and vice versa. Some get both dry. Some just give up if it is only minor. One of the problems I found with the hardtop is the absence of rain channels - open the window after a good rain while turning left and give your lap a good douche.

read http://www.apttony.co.uk/ and look at window adjustment.
 

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fecae2000 said:
the console that holds the speedomitor etc has come loose at the top and is now vibrating anyone give me any hints on how to fix it???

Plus having terrible problems with my hard top leaking in water from the drivers side some time it's fine then when i take it off and put it back on it seems not to seal properly and wooosh a load of water comes through anyone else with this problem ???

...no idea about problem 1. But problem 2, I've noticed when putting the HT on that sometimes it goes back on easier than other times.....One thing I try to do know is make sure its balanced (ie back to front, left right), so when you do the clips up no single one is under a great deal of strain (well more strain than any of the others if you follow me).... if that doesn't make sense, sorry im knackered :ziplip:
 

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Sprinter said:
If it is dry sometimes and wet others then it must be the way you put it on, surely. Having said that, many people have reported leaks resulting from window adjustment. The windows and seals can be adjusted (dealer or DIY) to make the car water tight but it can take a few goes. Some people find that after getting the softtop dry they get leaks from the hardtop and vice versa. Some get both dry. Some just give up if it is only minor. One of the problems I found with the hardtop is the absence of rain channels - open the window after a good rain while turning left and give your lap a good douche.

read http://www.apttony.co.uk/ and look at window adjustment.
... Sprinter I was thinking more of a fitting issue than the seals.... if sometimes its ok other times it leaks a lot ?
 

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... Sprinter I was thinking more of a fitting issue than the seals.... if sometimes its ok other times it leaks a lot ?
absolutely [email protected], that was my first thought. I should have parabreak at end of first sentence. Haven't used my hardtop since Mar 2004 but, like you, I made sure it was equalised.

Rest was more specific in case.

"If it is dry sometimes and wet others then it must be the way you put it on, surely"
 

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Are you talking about the bulge in the dash that houses the speedo etc? (known as a binnacle).

If so this problem has come up before and is a pig to cure. :(

Basically the binnacle is fixed to the dash from behind, so repairing it is very tricky (normally a dash out job). I have heard of some sucess using pop rivets (drill out old fixings and pop rivet in replacements) and also adhesive, but it isn't an easy task.

Not sure if you can see them, but i have a picture of the fixings (binnacle with speedo cluster removed).


To get to this picture you need to remove the following...


Instrument binnacle cowl, 4 Philips head screws and the dimmer multiplug

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Instrument cluster - 4 philips head screws, 3 multiplugs and the speedo cable (reach behind cluster)

You should now be able to inspect the fittings (using a torch) and formulate a plan of attack.

If you decide you need to take the dash out i have the entire process in a similar level of detail to the pictures above on my site. The site is a record of my rebuild and as such is in date order rather than anything indexed, so finding specific jobs can be a problem, but i can point you in the right direction if need be.
 
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