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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
I bought my F just a little more than a week ago.
The owner needed some cash fast so she offered it to me at a very cheap price for an easy sale.
I know nothing of its history, no indication of any work done.
She said it had been serviced a while back but the oil was a bit dark so i replaced the oil, filter, and air filter so its had the basics so far. ( does it have a cabin filter, if so were ?)
The engine seems to tick over realy nicely, and fires up with just a flick of the key. (134,000k)
The appears to be no milk in the oil, but im yet to examine the coolant, but first glance appears to be a nice green.
What preventative items need addressing before it becomes a problem in the near future ?
The gear shift sucks, not to bad wen its cold but seems worse wen its hot.
I will try getting the gear oil changed to 75/80 and see what changes if anything.
Should i change the cable ends regardless, or the complete sector cables.?
I would like to think i should tackle these things my self but to be honest, iv reached the demographic that would rather pay some one who is younger and more capable than myself.
Above all, i want a reliable car, i have more than one V8 in my garage so i can get my kicks with those if i want to go fast. The F is just a ecomomical run around and a bit of fun.
I welcome your advice, and thank you in advance.
 

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97 BRG MGF. 2009 SKODA SUPERB.
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492 Posts
Hi guys,
I bought my F just a little more than a week ago.
The owner needed some cash fast so she offered it to me at a very cheap price for an easy sale.
I know nothing of its history, no indication of any work done.
She said it had been serviced a while back but the oil was a bit dark so i replaced the oil, filter, and air filter so its had the basics so far. ( does it have a cabin filter, if so were ?)
The engine seems to tick over realy nicely, and fires up with just a flick of the key. (134,000k)
The appears to be no milk in the oil, but im yet to examine the coolant, but first glance appears to be a nice green.
What preventative items need addressing before it becomes a problem in the near future ?
The gear shift sucks, not to bad wen its cold but seems worse wen its hot.
I will try getting the gear oil changed to 75/80 and see what changes if anything.
Should i change the cable ends regardless, or the complete sector cables.?
I would like to think i should tackle these things my self but to be honest, iv reached the demographic that would rather pay some one who is younger and more capable than myself.
Above all, i want a reliable car, i have more than one V8 in my garage so i can get my kicks with those if i want to go fast. The F is just a ecomomical run around and a bit of fun.
I welcome your advice, and thank you in advance.
No cabin filter that I'm aware of, I still enjoy working on my F at the age of 73 just takes a little longer.
 

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I would personally change the spark plugs too.

Also give the brake pads and discs the once over. Running and starting nicely is great, buy stopping is more important.
 

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Starlight Silver MG TF 135
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appears to be no milk in the oil, but im yet to examine the coolant, but first glance appears to be a nice green.
What preventative items need addressing before it becomes a problem in the near future ?
The gear shift sucks, not to bad wen its cold but seems worse wen its hot.
I will try getting the gear oil changed to 75/80 and see what changes if anything.
Should i change the cable ends regardless, or the complete sector cables.?
Sounds like you have purchased a nice F, and I fully agree with IanMc's comments about brakes. I changed my front discs and pads: an easy DIY job, though a suitable large puller and some heat applied to left & right of the disc helps expand it off the hub. It is often VERY tight an rusted in-place.

As regards gear selection, others have commented that fresh gearbox oil improves gearchange. The fact that the gearchange is worse when hot MAY indicate that there is a low oil level in the gearbox, which gets lower as oil gets flung-around?? My TF's gear oil had (almost certainly) NOT been changed in 20 years, and it was dark but the new oil did not improve the gear change much in my case, but my TF is low-mileage and I checked the volume of what came out, which indicated that it had been very nearly full..

Removing, cleaning and carefully aligning the gear cable-ends at the gearbox end was easy and DID yield a significant improvement. If those cable ends are worn, Mike Satur does a kit which replaces those items with PROPER rose-joints.
Final point, if the coolant is GREEN, it is PROBABLY the old-spec Glycol-based stuff. The later f's and TF's used OAT (Organic Acid Technology??) stuff, which is reckoned to be "better" for Alloy engines, and lasts longer. DO NOT MIX THE TWO!!

If OAT coolant has been used, a label around the header tank filler.
Good luck!
 

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1995 MGF Mpi
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Removing, cleaning and carefully aligning the gear cable-ends at the gearbox end was easy and DID yield a significant improvement. If those cable ends are worn, Mike Satur does a kit which replaces those items with PROPER rose-joints.
My experience has been the same on both counts. Also, those original cable ends have rubber that bonds metal bits together and the rubber gets hard and brittle with time, especially if not aligned properly, and will fail. So do check them, they may need replacing.

I have installed the Mike Satur kits on both of ours cars and that change did improve the shifting quality, the cars shift much easier.

Also, the comment about changing the oil is a good one and worth doing.
 

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The PG1 gearbox as fitted to MGF & TF should only be filled with MTF94 oil which can be purchased from Ford, Land Rover and Honda Dealers. Ford dealers are normally the cheapest but sometimes Ebay can get the Rover branded product for less, the following quote is from another MG-Rover Forum;
"The PG1 gearbox should be filled with approx 2.2L of MTF94 oil. Standard 75-90w will attack the bearings and shorten the life of the gearbox.
R65 gearboxes should be filled with Esso BV 75w80, or equivalent.
IB5 gearboxes should be filled with Castrol BOT130M.
CVT gearboxes should be filled with Esso EZL7999".
There is a lot of info on the internet regarding how some gearboxes are very particular in their oil preference. The Mazda gearbox used in the RX8 is another one that prefers MTF94, in this case it improves gear shift quality, it may help with PG1's as well
 

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97 BRG MGF. 2009 SKODA SUPERB.
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What I understand is that HONDA designed the PG1 gearbox to run on 10w40, so could someone please tell me why it seems to have been changed to MTF94. Regards. D4KGP.
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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The PG1 gearbox should be filled with approx 2.2L of MTF94 oil. Standard 75-90w will attack the bearings and shorten the life of the gearbox.
Not sure where you got this information from, but MTF94 is a 75W80 gear oil. There have been many discussions about it on this and other forums over the years, and as far as anybody is aware, the principal difference between MTF94 and standard 75W80 gear oil is the extra longevity that comes with the MTF94. Rover recommended gearbox oil change intervals of 100k+ miles where MTF94 was used for factory fill, whereas you would be looking at changes at less than half that for a standard 75W80.

Using MTF94 in the PG1 is not critical - any standard 75W80 will be suitable, but will need changing at 40k to 50k miles.

The principal killer of gearboxes is lack of oil rather than using a different oil from that recommended (the exception being the van Doorne type CVT fitted to the F/TF and other smaller Rover/MG cars for which it is critical to use the correct type and grade for a belt drive CVT and not use a standard automatic transmission fluid).

Castrol BOT130M (for the IB5 only) hasn't been marketed for some years, but was a fully synthetic 75W90 GL-4 spec transmission oil.

What I understand is that HONDA designed the PG1 gearbox to run on 10w40, so could someone please tell me why it seems to have been changed to MTF94. Regards. D4KGP.
Whilst I am not sure what Honda originally designed it to be filled with, Rover certainly used 10W40 for factory fill in some earlier applications of the PG1, but changed to MTF94 later on apparently due to gearbox problems becoming apparent where the 10W40 was used. They continued to suggest 10W40 was suitable for topping-up purposes right up to the MG Rover era though.
 

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97 BRG MGF. 2009 SKODA SUPERB.
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Not sure where you got this information from, but MTF94 is a 75W80 gear oil. There have been many discussions about it on this and other forums over the years, and as far as anybody is aware, the principal difference between MTF94 and standard 75W80 gear oil is the extra longevity that comes with the MTF94. Rover recommended gearbox oil change intervals of 100k+ miles where MTF94 was used for factory fill, whereas you would be looking at changes at less than half that for a standard 75W80.

Using MTF94 in the PG1 is not critical - any standard 75W80 will be suitable, but will need changing at 40k to 50k miles.

The principal killer of gearboxes is lack of oil rather than using a different oil from that recommended (the exception being the van Doorne type CVT fitted to the F/TF and other smaller Rover/MG cars for which it is critical to use the correct type and grade for a belt drive CVT and not use a standard automatic transmission fluid).

Castrol BOT130M (for the IB5 only) hasn't been marketed for some years, but was a fully synthetic 75W90 GL-4 spec transmission oil.


Whilst I am not sure what Honda originally designed it to be filled with, Rover certainly used 10W40 for factory fill in some earlier applications of the PG1, but changed to MTF94 later on apparently due to gearbox problems becoming apparent where the 10W40 was used. They continued to suggest 10W40 was suitable for topping-up purposes right up to the MG Rover era though.
Thanks. D4KGP.
 

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I came across the benefits of using MTF94 a few years ago, I am fitting a RX8 gearbox in my MGB GT and was searching for info about the gearbox on the internet. What was being found that the gearshift quality on the Aisin gearbox improved dramatically when filled with Ford branded MTF94, with their links with Mazda it's not surprising.
Then there was this piece from the MGF Register;
"The local Penrite people explained to me that the critical part of MTF-94 is the viscosity.
If it's too high ( thick ) then you have trouble shifting, especially when cold, if it's too low ( thin )
then that's not good either.
The ONLY oil they will place the MTF-94 spec on is their 75W-80 semi synthetic gear oil with a viscosity of 56 cSt @ 40 deg C. They have plenty of 'better' synthetic oils, but none have this viscosity. The spec for Texaco MTF 94 is 53 cSt "

You will find a lot more info if you search the forums, MTF94 was developed for the R380 gearbox fitted to Range Rovers and Discovery's, this was the successor to the LT77. Plenty of people saying MTF94 improved the shift quality none that I have read said it made it worse, perhaps changing old oil for new would improve matters no matter what grade is put in. It's all down to your beliefs as to whether a manufacturer recommends a particular oil to boost profits or whether it improves longevity or performance, as always, your car your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Iv had the gear box oil refilled with a MTF94 spec oil, but i dont think it made much difference,especialy as it get hotter, it is still notchy.
I noticed the clutch slave cylinder is weeping, i was going to bleed it but probably not worth it until i replace it with a new one.
 
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