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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I've had my 2003 75 cdt for about three months now, I've checked the to see if the water drain holes were blocked (these were ok). I just wondered if there is any work I could do now which may stop problems in the future. I've picked up a few people have had problems with fan motor's, is this is case of running the fan regularly to stop it seizing or is there more to it. Any information is appreciated.

Andy
 

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Without doubt, it is a good plan to exercise the HVAC in all its modes, at all times of the year......the problem is, to remember!

I also change the oil more frequently than recommended, wash the car well every week, rinse behind plastic/rubber trims and splash guards (especially in winter).
 

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Use Millers DPP in the fuel.

It keeps the injection system clean and provides extra lubrication, as well as promoting smoother running and better economy.

It may help reduce the likelyhood of the low pressure fuel pump failures as well.

It costs £7 for enough to treat 500L - ie about 10 tank fulls. Or half as much if you buy a 5L can.

http://millersoils.net

for a stockist.

Ron
 

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Prevention

Trying to think as I have just been thoroughly over my 2003 Cdti tourer. It depends on your mileage as to what to look at. Mine was on 18000 miles.
I lightly spray the engine compartment with WD40 2 or 3 times a year. I buy the 5 litre with spray bottle (cheaper). I also spray the suspension parts (springs etc) to stop rust. Last week I had all wheels off and treated well with Waxoyl (lasts longer and preserves rubber gaiters etc.
If you jack up front O/S you can get at the brake pipes running front to back. They rust fairly quickly. Either paint them with Hammerite smooth (green !) or treat with Waxoyl. If wheels are off paint brake metal pipes as far as you can. I also paint the metal flex brake hose ends and holding brackets. Use Auto Glym rubber & vinyl spray (on a rag) on any and all door/sealing rubbers especially going into winter (stops door and windows from sticking) If pollen filter has not been changed have a look, mine was filthy and I then deodorised the interior/air con with the COMMA sanitizer (kills bacteria and viruses in system) If you have leather seats use Glyptone 3 or 4 times a year. After Lycoming said ther was no advantage with any oil additives I reccomend you don't use them. Rather spend on good oil and change more frequently (with filter). If you have alloys be careful which brushes you use (I have scratched mine using a good brush but the twisted wire centre did not have a protective cap) I now swear by Maguiras (spelling ?) spoke brush which will not damage. If you give them a clean weekly you will find Zip Wax car wash keeps them clean. If they do get badly black use Wonder Wheels. If you top up or flush cooling system only use OAT
anti freeze (usually pink/red colour not blue) If you have auto g/box, change fluid at 50 to 60000 miles, auto specialist best and use the correct fluid from Rover/Land Rover.
Sorry if I'm teaching grandma etc but there may be some useful bits in there
 

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If your wheels are getting very grimey from brake dust etc. then the best treatment I have found is to use MER polish ( comes in blue plastic petrol can type containers) .Best done after a good wash a thorough clean, let them dry, and get to work with the MER. I would advise against using aggressive cleaning products like 'wonder wheels' etc as they are either solutions of Hydrochloric or Phosphoric Acid, this is not a problem when the alloy is painted and in good condition but any small chips etc will soon become avenues for the solution to start corroding the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the all info, I tend to keep cars for a while (last one 5 1/2 years). Up to now I'm really pleased with the 75 so it could be a long relationship.

Andy
 

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Bogget said:
What oil do we recomend for the 2000cc petrol?

Bogget

Again, I use Millers XFE semi synthetic and change it every 8k. £15 for 5L

Fully synth XFD 5w40 £27 for 5L, compared to £35+ for 4litres of big name stuff.

Its highly regarded in diesel circles and is half the price of the big names brands.

They also sell petrol engine oil which I would recommend. Fully synth if you stick to the recommended service intervals or semi synth and change twice as often.
XFS fully synth 0w 30
XSS semi synth 10w40

I also use Molyslip additive in the (manual) gearbox.
Ron
 
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