Hi Tony like you i like to do my own work 'when possible' when you changed the back plates did you use the new modified ones? the ones I've replaced have a metal block with a thicker ferrule than the old type, as you say the handbrake cable does rust in and on the older type snaps off the ferrule, with the newer type this will not happen as the walls of the ferrule are a lot thicker and as you say with a little grease should be no problems removing if needed, done a lot of work on mine and the worst job was removing the 4 blots on the anti roll-bar, i found the thermostat easier to do, happy times when you get it through the MOT, Steve
Pre MOT Info
I hope this will be of interest and assistance.
When preparing for the MOT (109,550 miles) I replaced the nearside front lower wishbone assembly (what a shame the old one is scrap) overhauled the front and rear brakes with new discs, pads and hand brake shoes and changed the rear brakes back plates on both sides as the original ones had corroded.
The whole job was fairly easy but what caused the most difficulty was changing the back plates; the hand brake cables have a metal ferrule on the end which locates in a metal tube which is part of the back plate, the ferrule had corroded in the tube and was impossible to remove, the only way to get it out was to remove the tube from the back plate by chiselling it out and then carefully hacksawing a slot in the tube and prising it off the ferrule.
On completion I applied copperslip to the ferruel so if I ever have to remove the cable or change the back plates again it will be a lot easier.
By the way the car passed the MOT with just one fault; nearside front indicator, the one in the wing just under the wing mirror, the orange paint had come off the lamp.
Tony
When preparing for the MOT (109,550 miles) I replaced the nearside front lower wishbone assembly (what a shame the old one is scrap) overhauled the front and rear brakes with new discs, pads and hand brake shoes and changed the rear brakes back plates on both sides as the original ones had corroded.
The whole job was fairly easy but what caused the most difficulty was changing the back plates; the hand brake cables have a metal ferrule on the end which locates in a metal tube which is part of the back plate, the ferrule had corroded in the tube and was impossible to remove, the only way to get it out was to remove the tube from the back plate by chiselling it out and then carefully hacksawing a slot in the tube and prising it off the ferrule.
On completion I applied copperslip to the ferruel so if I ever have to remove the cable or change the back plates again it will be a lot easier.
By the way the car passed the MOT with just one fault; nearside front indicator, the one in the wing just under the wing mirror, the orange paint had come off the lamp.
Tony
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Nice one, how did you get the wishbone + bush off? it was not that easy job for me and hard to access the bush bolts.
Steve,Hi Tony like you i like to do my own work 'when possible' when you changed the back plates did you use the new modified ones? the ones I've replaced have a metal block with a thicker ferrule than the old type, as you say the handbrake cable does rust in and on the older type snaps off the ferrule, with the newer type this will not happen as the walls of the ferrule are a lot thicker and as you say with a little grease should be no problems removing if needed, done a lot of work on mine and the worst job was removing the 4 blots on the anti roll-bar, i found the thermostat easier to do, happy times when you get it through the MOT, Steve
I purchased the back plates from Rimmers, I was not aware there was a modified version, I am at work just now but when I get home will send part numbers of the back plates used.
I like you do as much as I can to my 75, I get a lot of enjoyment out of keeping her looking good and running well and will continue to do so until I can no longer hold a spanner.
My 75 is the best car I have ever had it is a pleasure to drive, long may it continue.
Regards
Tony
win2kpro,Nice one, how did you get the wishbone + bush off? it was not that easy job for me and hard to access the bush bolts.
The bush bolts are hard to get to, I purchased from Gibbs Tools in George Street Aberdeen a short 18mm combination, it is just the right size to get in to the bolts and using another combination for leverage I managed to loosen and tighten the bolts without problem.
To just change the bushes using the original wishbones, you will have to destroy the old bush to get it off, fitting the new bush is not too bad so long as you use washing up liquid.
Incidently this is not the first time I have had to do this job, about 12 months ago using the original wishbones I changed the bushes on both sdes, I only changed the complete wishbone this time because of the lower ball joint, I now have a wishbone with worn ball joint and nearly new bush, as I said shame it is scrap.
Regards
Tony
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
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