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Starlight Silver MG TF 135
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I needed to do an oil change (owned the car for a year now) and had heard stories that refilling via the port next to the dipstick was EXTREEMLY slow, so I was prepared to go through all the hassle of removing engine cover BUT:
When I checked the owner's handbook for oil grade and volume I needed, it stated: "If necessary, remove the filler cap and add oil WITH THE DIPSTICK REMOVED!" (The capitals and exclamation mark are exactly as-in the handbook.)

So, I decided to try filling via the port in photo below, and checked the time before I started. Result: 14 minutes to put 4.5 litres in. I am certain that I could have finished more quickly. I assumed that it would be very slow, so I initially did other jobs while I waited for oil to drain into the sump. The first two times I returned, no oil was in-sight, so I then poured slowly and kept watch on the dipstick tube. Only once did oil threaten to overflow up this pipe, which is conveniently slightly lower than the mouth of the adjacent spout. A gloved finger stopped the threat of overflow easily.
Grille Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper


I decided to send this message to encourage anyone who, like me:

a. Only needs to do an oil & filter change, so no overriding need to remove engine cover to access plugs, air filter etc.

b. (Unlike me) was put-off the job because of the time & hassle of all those hard-to-reach engine cover bolts, hood clips, etc. etc.

I accept that 14 minutes is a long time to wait for oil to flow-in, but I VERY much doubt if anyone could detach the back edge of the hood, remove carpet and insulation, undo 10 bolts and complete the other tasks AND fill the oil via the Main oil-fill hole in anything like 14 minutes! Not to mention all the time & work to put the engine cover etc. back.

It also makes me wonder if some of the tales of ultra-slow oil refill via the Aux port (as in photo above) were as a result of leaving the dipstick in-situ???:mad:

Call me a smart-arse if you must, but I am the one who has saved myself a lot of time and (probably) grief!
 

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I use a funnel with a piece of hose pipe to oil cap on top of engine, quicker, less hassle and works well.
I needed to do an oil change (owned the car for a year now) and had heard stories that refilling via the port next to the dipstick was EXTREEMLY slow, so I was prepared to go through all the hassle of removing engine cover BUT:
When I checked the owner's handbook for oil grade and volume I needed, it stated: "If necessary, remove the filler cap and add oil WITH THE DIPSTICK REMOVED!" (The capitals and exclamation mark are exactly as-in the handbook.)

So, I decided to try filling via the port in photo below, and checked the time before I started. Result: 14 minutes to put 4.5 litres in. I am certain that I could have finished more quickly. I assumed that it would be very slow, so I initially did other jobs while I waited for oil to drain into the sump. The first two times I returned, no oil was in-sight, so I then poured slowly and kept watch on the dipstick tube. Only once did oil threaten to overflow up this pipe, which is conveniently slightly lower than the mouth of the adjacent spout. A gloved finger stopped the threat of overflow easily.
View attachment 138037

I decided to send this message to encourage anyone who, like me:

a. Only needs to do an oil & filter change, so no overriding need to remove engine cover to access plugs, air filter etc.

b. (Unlike me) was put-off the job because of the time & hassle of all those hard-to-reach engine cover bolts, hood clips, etc. etc.

I accept that 14 minutes is a long time to wait for oil to flow-in, but I VERY much doubt if anyone could detach the back edge of the hood, remove carpet and insulation, undo 10 bolts and complete the other tasks AND fill the oil via the Main oil-fill hole in anything like 14 minutes! Not to mention all the time & work to put the engine cover etc. back.

It also makes me wonder if some of the tales of ultra-slow oil refill via the Aux port (as in photo above) were as a result of leaving the dipstick in-situ???:mad:

Call me a smart-arse if you must, but I am the one who has saved myself a lot of time and (probably) grief!
This a great tip. Accessing the engine bay is always a pain in the neck as it takes me so long to unzip the HRW (got to be careful to cushion it so the glass doesn't shatter), unclip the hood, remove the carpet, insulation and engine cover and then put it all back together afterwards. Mind you I usually change the plugs and check the coil packs and HT leads when I do a service so I probably carry on changing the oil through the main filler.
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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This a great tip. Accessing the engine bay is always a pain in the neck as it takes me so long to unzip the HRW (got to be careful to cushion it so the glass doesn't shatter), unclip the hood, remove the carpet, insulation and engine cover and then put it all back together afterwards. Mind you I usually change the plugs and check the coil packs and HT leads when I do a service so I probably carry on changing the oil through the main filler.
Errr...10 min job to remove the engine heat shield, even when taking off the speaker bar as well. Don't bother to unzip the window, just unclip the rear of the hood, pull up out of way, and either hold up or get a piece of string with a hook to hold up (front of the string you can tie something to it undo front of roof put string though then redo up), remove carpet and just undo the bolts, to make it quicker you could even use an electric screwdriver with a 10mm socket on it to speed up taking the bolts out.
 
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