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Novice Mechanic SOS

1.2K views 13 replies 7 participants last post by  Villager  
#1 ·
Yeah, me again.

I replaced the heater unit, painstakingly put the inside of the car back together, and attempted to start the car... nothing. The usual instrument lights come on with the key in the ignition, and when I try to start the car, the OIL light comes on as well. I cannot fathom where I have gone wrong, and I certainly haven't touched the oil.

I haven't the faintest idea of where to begin looking for a problem - help!

All advice most eagerly received...
 
#4 ·
It sounds like your immobiliser. The oil light will stay on until the oil pressure builds up when the car starts. I am not sure if the fob resynchronising procedure effects the immobiliser, but it might be worth a go.
 
#5 ·
Nothing happens when I try to resychronise. The flashing light thingy doesn't come on at any point.

Is there an obvious connection that I might not have reconnected properly? Or is the battery now the most likely culprit?
 
#6 ·
Do the lights work?
Can you hear the click from the starter relay when you try to start?

If the battery is flat, the lights may still work, but you should hear the relay and the lights may then dim. If nothing is happening when you turn the key, it's probably the imobiliser or a fuse.

Oil light on is normal until the engine starts.
 
#8 ·
Do the lights work?
Can you hear the click from the starter relay when you try to start?

If the battery is flat, the lights may still work, but you should hear the relay and the lights may then dim. If nothing is happening when you turn the key, it's probably the imobiliser or a fuse.

Oil light on is normal until the engine starts.
Hi
As above, or could be the wires to the starter motor.A common fault on the F.When you had the car in the air doing the heater pipes, you may have dislodged one of the wires.
Steve
 
#7 ·
The alarm control unit is located behind the centre console - I wonder if you have distrubed a connection to this that is causing the immobiliser problem. I connot remember its exact location -either above or below the heater control - a horizontal mounted box. Check this out then try and re-sync your fob, but disconnect the battery then re-connect first.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Thanks for the responses, guys.

I didn't touch anything under the car before I had replaced the heater and attempted to start it, so it shouldn't be that. I'll inspect the alarm unit tomorrow.

One other question: I did tug about on the volumetric sensor cable at times (I wanted to remove the front console without disconnecting it, so I eventually made an incision at the back) - could that be related possibly?

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _​

Edit: Anti-freeze is definitely an irritant. The heater feeder pipes had been disconnected and joined together by the PO, high up in a small space (seriously, it would have been easier to replace the heater. Nutjob.) I lost a lot of skin and even more patience getting the clips and hoses off - I also got covered in A-F, and my arms haven't stopped itching since.
 
#10 ·
Fixed! One of the multiplugs to the ECU was broken - a bite of tape fixed that.

One final point (I hope) - I've refilled the coolant and taken the car for a 20 miles jaunt (lovely weather for it!) and even with bleeding I've only put 10 litres of coolant mix in, whereas everything I've read says 10.5 litres. Is that the amount up to the brim of the expansion tank maybe? Or I didn't drain it properly in the first place? Surely any problems would have made themselves known over 20 miles?


Also, I put the Max Power air filter on today. Not sure I like it! It's a bit obnoxious, IMHO. I'll leave it on for the time being, give it a chance to grow on me, but I suspect I'll be removing it before long.
 
#14 ·
Yeah, it did. First time working under a car etc, there were times when I feared I'd bitten off more than I could chew. Mind you, I wouldn't have attempted it if I didn't have recourse to this forum when I (inevitably) come across problems.