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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

New member here very interested in buying a 600ti. I've decided to save up the cash for a newer 600 possibly r/s plate. Although I am not that clued up on what to look out for on these. I'm led to believe that the engines are prone to head gasket leaks at one point, g/boxes suffer a little under the strain of the t16 and driveshafts wear quickly.

One other thing I have noticed is that the older models rust bad round the rear arches in particular. Whereas the later models seem to have better paint. Is there any truth in that?

Hence why I'd like a later model.. Nice looking car imo, especially when they are sitting low. "cool"/>

and cheers for any advice,

David
 

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for now, may i suggest the search facility and the sticky section at the top of the 600 section.

anything more specific please ask.

if you find one, let us know as much info as possible and we might be able to advise on that too?

the rear quarter rust thing was a design change to the rear bumper i believe?

not heard about the drive shafts wearing?

gearbox's do go but it wasn't really designed for turbo's tbh

HGF is bo***x really, the later type you're looking for had klinger head gaskets fitted as standard which are very good

hth
 

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As red rover said, the 'box on the turbo wasn't really quite up to the job, that said, it's not like it's a major league issue, a well serviced and unthrashed car should still be very serviceable even at higher mileage.

The boost is electronically regulated through the rev range to ease the stresses on the gearbox, and it also very slightly aids traction! though it's not a traction control system. As far as I recall, the boost was more heavily controlled on late (post '96) distributorless cars, a lot of people have said that pre '96 distributor equipped cars feel faster, but this is more to do with the heavier reining in of the boost on later models.

The driveshafts can come in for a bit of stick if the car is hammered out of bends, the torsen LSD diff which is standard equipment equalises the traction between the front wheels, but this can impose extra strain on the driveshafts. In saying that, you would have to be giving it an awful lot of welly in the lower gears in the dry out of tight bends for above mentioned 'strain' to occur!

There's a lot of confusion in people thinking the head gasket has failed when oil is seen weeping from the front right of the engine (if I'm being pedantic, that's actually the rear left of the engine!), there is an oil gallery that sits just out of line of cylinder head bolt clamping, and inevitably, it weeps a small amount of oil, this happens even on the later cars which come from the factory with the multilayer metal headgaskets, it was also a common 'fault' on the O series engines. I say fault, but it's not really an issue, the amount of oil lost is barely enough to keep a damp patch going on the block, so really nothing to worry about. As for actual headgasket failure, it's quite uncommon with the T series turbo as used in the ti, even much more less likely on post '96 models.

I've heard about the modification to the rear bumper to lessen the chances of corrosion aswell, but it seems more to do with how well the car was maintained, ie if the mud and crud was hosed out from the rear arches or not.

Buy the best you can afford/find, full service history, evidence of good quality fluids lubricants and parts used is a bonus, and make sure the car has the all important red key with it! this is needed if spare keys and fobs require programming later on in ownership.

These are very worthwhile cars and extremely rewarding to drive, I can't think of another car pound for pound that delivers the goods so impressively! I'd say go for it! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
cheers for the info guys. I will definately be going for one just got to find the cash now for a good'un!!

Hopefully have one soon enough:)
 
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