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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, new to the forum, can't believe how much information there is here! I'd like to drop in my TF story so far if that's alright.
A few weeks ago a friend and I spent some money set aside for a holiday on a nice TF as our bit of summer fun instead. We loved the look of the TF as a platform for a bit of non competitive track work and adding some silly mods while we're young and dumb enough to do it. Neither of us have heavily played with or modified a car before though I have a bit of basic mechanical knowledge and all the basic tools needed as I service my cars myself. Must admit I'm already taken with this MG lark and I'm slightly regretful I went with a golf estate over a rover 75/ ZT-T as my daily choice last year!

The TF seemed too cheap for what it was (£680 for an 02 135 TF with no rust, 65k miles, a good spec and good bodywork) and funnily enough turned out that it was. It only had a few weeks MOT left but we couldn't for the life of us find anything too wrong. The obvious included a grimey (but good condition) interior, cracked bumper, worn tyres and minor electrical issues (climate control knob broken off and windows wouldn't open). The dealer will be getting a pretty bad review, for what good it'll do, given the other hidden problems. His exact words were 'she'll only need a good valet and it'll fly through the MOT no problems'. Dodgy B*****D. Walked right into that one - as much our mistake!

As it turns out, we got it home and up on stands and the cat and downpipe had been roughly chopped off and straight piped, sigh. The bumper crack accident looks to have slightly warped multiple bodywork panels up and backward so there are (discreet but now can't unsee them) ugly panel gaps up to the wings and doors which will need a fair bit of dismantling and mount point persuading to sort. Annoying as the rest of the paint work is in very good condition but it is only cosmetic. Further plus side is that gearbox, clutch and engine all seem strong, rust is minor and superficial and the roof is in perfect nick with a heated glass screen.

Questions:
Electrical issues are my main worry as I'm not familiar. The windows, climate control and initially the the hazard lights were all inoperative (purportedly due to a roof that wasn't closed properly by one of the traders garage minions). The alarm has gone off twice in two weeks for no reason so I've just left it unlocked for now. I've checked the fuses in both fuse boxes and stuck the car in the garage with a heater for a week to throughly dry any residual moisture which appeared to bring back the hazards. From what I've read on the forum so far, this most likely could only be the SCU/BCU that would be affecting all these systems at once, it would make sense given the low position of the SCU in the footwell. I haven't done a thorough check throughout the electrical system as it slightly bamboozles my more more simple mechanical mind. Is it preemptive to just remove and replace the SCU or SCU relays? I don't know much about it but it seems easy enough. Could anyone offer another opinion?

As this is unfortunately a fairly budget build, an OEM cat is out so we're looking at an ebay special downpipe and type approved cheapo Cat for £110 total and a year or twos effective use. The alternative is a weld in sports cat which would be simpler and retain some 'sportiness' but I'm nervous of the technical illegality of non type approved cats. Any ideas?

Thanks all for reading and any responses, sorry for the long windedness! Jack
 

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In the Garage
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Welcome

Given that it is an 02 car the electrical systems tend not have any issues other than damage to the loom where it sits next to the book hinge.
If that is not a problem take the radio out and inspect for cable damage behind the dashboard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome

Given that it is an 02 car the electrical systems tend not have any issues other than damage to the loom where it sits next to the book hinge.
If that is not a problem take the radio out and inspect for cable damage behind the dashboard.
Thankyou,
sorry - book hinge? I'll give the radio a go. Would have to be some pretty major loom damage to knock out 5-6 different things wouldn't it? (Also the 12v socket)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thankyou,
sorry - book hinge? I'll give the radio a go. Would have to be some pretty major loom damage to knock out 5-6 different things wouldn't it? (Also the 12v socket)
Ah I see you mean boot! I don't think there is any loom damage in the boot hinge as it seems to affect only electrical components in the dashboard and doors.
 

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If the car has suffered damp inside I would look at pulling all fuses from the fuse box under the steering wheel and checking their condition for corrosion. My 2002 TF had a number of electrical items not working last year and it turned out to be nothing more than corroded fuses within the fuse box! a quick clean down and some WD40 and all working fine now.

In relation to your exhaust, it could be the cat was stolen/cut out which is why the pipe is welded in. However; if the down pipe flexy joint is fine and not blowing, just buy (your words) an ebay special type approved cheapo Cat which is sleeved, then you can just cut out the existing pipe to the required size and just fit the cat with clamps which will save you buying a downpipe :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If the car has suffered damp inside I would look at pulling all fuses from the fuse box under the steering wheel and checking their condition for corrosion. My 2002 TF had a number of electrical items not working last year and it turned out to be nothing more than corroded fuses within the fuse box! a quick clean down and some WD40 and all working fine now.

In relation to your exhaust, it could be the cat was stolen/cut out which is why the pipe is welded in. However; if the down pipe flexy joint is fine and not blowing, just buy (your words) an ebay special type approved cheapo Cat which is sleeved, then you can just cut out the existing pipe to the required size and just fit the cat with clamps which will save you buying a downpipe :)
Appreciate the suggestions. I pulled all the relevant fuses and they looked fine but I've got a load of replacements so I might just replace them bit by bit and try and clean the box contacts out. I saw no corrosion per se though.

True, I hadn't thought of that option, clamps is a good idea. Flexy joint is still in good nick so I'll give that a bit of thought. Cheers
 

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Boot hinge, that is autocorrect for you!

If the loom is damaged there it can take out most of the dashboard
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If the car has suffered damp inside I would look at pulling all fuses from the fuse box under the steering wheel and checking their condition for corrosion. My 2002 TF had a number of electrical items not working last year and it turned out to be nothing more than corroded fuses within the fuse box! a quick clean down and some WD40 and all working fine now.

In relation to your exhaust, it could be the cat was stolen/cut out which is why the pipe is welded in. However; if the down pipe flexy joint is fine and not blowing, just buy (your words) an ebay special type approved cheapo Cat which is sleeved, then you can just cut out the existing pipe to the required size and just fit the cat with clamps which will save you buying a downpipe :)
Just to add - do you know if there is a Lambda sensor that needs replacing? I thought there was one but I can't see it on the remaining exhaust and there are no fault codes for lack of it.
 

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There should be one, but a lot of people decat their TF's and get the ecu remapped to turn off the post cat sensor or fit a MIL eliminator. It could be this has been done to yours...or the dodgy garage has just removed the bulb to the MIL :p
 

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.........From what I've read on the forum so far, this most likely could only be the SCU/BCU that would be affecting all these systems at once, it would make sense given the low position of the SCU in the footwell. I haven't done a thorough check throughout the electrical system as it slightly bamboozles my more more simple mechanical mind. Is it preemptive to just remove and replace the SCU or SCU relays?
Welcome to the forum - the car looks and sounds fairly decent, and most of the issues you have so far identified should not be too difficult or expensive to fix. Regarding the panel gaps - one of the constant criticisms of Rover and MG cars in the late 1990s/early 2000s was that of uneven panel gaps which also tended to be rather larger than those found on some other makes. It may be that things are not as far out of line as you think they appear ;)

Being a 2002 registration, it will not have the Pektron SCU (these and the changed electrical system were fitted to the TFs built from 17th June 2003), rather the electrical systems are controlled either by a separate ECU (eg. drivers window) or a 'multi-function unit' (MFU) which controls several systems, so the electrical issues are more likely to be caused by faulty switches or damaged wiring/poor connections. Random alarm triggering is quite often down to poor connection or damage of the door/courtesy light switches, or the microswitch on the drivers door lock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There should be one, but a lot of people decat their TF's and get the ecu remapped to turn off the post cat sensor or fit a MIL eliminator. It could be this has been done to yours...or the dodgy garage has just removed the bulb to the MIL :p
Agh, if only I could get away without a moral compass it'd all be much easier, sigh. As if it needs a decent amount of work just to reset to 0 :ROFLMAO: Still, its managable!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Welcome to the forum - the car looks and sounds fairly decent, and most of the issues you have so far identified should not be too difficult or expensive to fix. Regarding the panel gaps - one of the constant criticisms of Rover and MG cars in the late 1990s/early 2000s was that of uneven panel gaps which also tended to be rather larger than those found on some other makes. It may be that things are not as far out of line as you think they appear ;)

Being a 2002 registration, it will not have the Pektron SCU (these and the changed electrical system were fitted to the TFs built from 17th June 2003), rather the electrical systems are controlled either by a separate ECU (eg. drivers window) or a 'multi-function unit' (MFU) which controls several systems, so the electrical issues are more likely to be caused by faulty switches or damaged wiring/poor connections. Random alarm triggering is quite often down to poor connection or damage of the door/courtesy light switches, or the microswitch on the drivers door lock.
Thanks! Yes I think it's likely to just be pesky annoying problems rather than anything expensive or preclusive. If you look at the front bumper by the headlight you can see straight through empty gap, I'm ok with panel gaps but this is just extra windage 🤣

Ah ok thanks for the heads up on electrical systems. I'll key in on poor connections as you and others have suggested and try and tick off possible damage locations one by one, I'll just have to dust off the voltmeter and get the tweezers ready to start pulling my hair out. I just imagined there would be one central cause for so many problems.
 

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I just imagined there would be one central cause for so many problems.
As Chris has already said, I would focus my attention on the loom at the LH boot hinge first. Peel back at least six inches of insulation/cable wrap and check EVERY wire in there.

The weird electrical issues caused by broken wires in there is amazing.

Good luck with the project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
As Chris has already said, I would focus my attention on the loom at the LH boot hinge first. Peel back at least six inches of insulation/cable wrap and check EVERY wire in there.

The weird electrical issues caused by broken wires in there is amazing.

Good luck with the project.
Cheers Ian, will make that the first port of call.

I'm very much looking forward to it.
The info from this forum has already been more than helpful and I've only been here a few hours. Cheers all
 
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