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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I have had my Ti for only a few weeks and up to now it has been the best car I have ever driven. I replaced my old ST24 with my 97 white Ti and it has never once gave me any reason to complain other than the typical window problems, until the other day when i was stuck in traffic and the car suddely became really hard to change gear. I tried taking it out of gear and then putting it back into first but i couldnt get it to go into any gear at all.

I am at a loss as i am not mechanically minded - has anyone had this problem before? or know what has broken/how to fix it?


Thanks guys


Mark
 

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rover_600
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Hi, out of interest can you find a gear with the engine off?. When my clutch springs went on a Rover 414si you could not select a gear with the engine running but could with it off. If that's the case you'll need a new clutch.
 

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im guessing its probably clutch. it could also be the selector linkage i guess. i've not had any experience with this problem im just guessing really.

definately get the clutch checked, have you checked the clutch fluid recently ?
 

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The hydrolic slave cylinders can go mean extremly reduced gear changes which can cruch gears?
Does it work ok putting it in first with the engine off and then starting it?
Does it feel like its lost al; hydrolic pressure when you press the pedal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When i press the clutch, there is no resistance. the pedal doesnt pop up at all, like a spring has gone or something. I can't get get it in gear whether the engine is turned on or off. It is the fact that the pedal doesnt have any resistance that is puzzling me?
 

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The ti has a hydraulic clutch, sound like either your slave or master cylinder has broken, most probably it will be the slave, look under the dash on the drivers side at the top of the clutch pedel, you should be able to see the slave cylinder, and if its gone, there will be alot of clutch fluid around the rubber.

OR

Have you checked you clutch fluid level? may be simply low.
 

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mg_zt_t
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Please delete ~ I got a false 'lost' message with this posting ..... hence the following duplicate:
 

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mg_zt_t
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The hydrolic slave cylinders can go mean extremly reduced gear changes which can cruch gears?
Does it work ok putting it in first with the engine off and then starting it?
Does it feel like its lost al; hydrolic pressure when you press the pedal?
When i press the clutch, there is no resistance. the pedal doesnt pop up at all, like a spring has gone or something. I can't get get it in gear whether the engine is turned on or off. It is the fact that the pedal doesnt have any resistance that is puzzling me?
Odds on favourite: Worn seals in the clutch slave cylinder. Remove the cap from the small clutch fluid reservoir on the engine bulkhead (in front of the driver position) and if it's empty ... all your fluid has escaped via the worn seals in the clutch's slave.

If you or previous owners habitually wait in gear with clutch depressed fully for long periods ( most local traffic lights have 2 minutes plus cycle sequence ~ that's a long period ) that places undue wear and strain on the whole hydraulic system ...

... same with brakes if you do not use the handbrake when stopped but keep your foot firmly on the brake pedal.

If as I suspect your slave seal is leaking, it will be very messy in that area because that's where most of the old fluid has gone. Loss of clutch pedal will be sudden because the system will work until there's next to no fluid left in the system.

In case you're not familiar with the slave cylinder's location, here's one on an engine. If your 620ti still has the under tray below the front of the engine, you'll need to look above that from behind to see the slave cylinder:



The seal kit is still available and only a few quid from parts suppliers. If worn seal is the problem, the one you need is:

MG-R / XPart number: CDU2330EVA (Kit repair ~ clutch slave )

In the past year both my son's ( MetroMartin here ) and my own 620ti slave seals started to show signs of wear and were replaced. Cost under ten quid for each car and that included new UNIPART brake/clutch fluid so the process is still fresh in my memory.

In the thick wodge of 'history' with another 620ti I own, there's an invoice to replace the clutch slave cylinder for the previous owner. That Invoice bill was in excess of 250 quid! Although a new slave cylinder was included, that's still a huge difference and no doubt the new item was not really necessary, just the seals needing renewal is usually all that's required.
 

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rover_45
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I would rekon your right but I had an 820 which did the smae thing and it turned out to be the gear selecor mechanisum. It worked fine then became harder and harder to select gears and this was over 500 yards. Then boom, No selection at all. Got AA out and within 10 mins back on the road. Give it a check as it will cost nothing and my gear leaver was still tight and as if nothing had happend, which is why I did'nt susbect it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finally fixed. When my bro fiitted the new part, he didnt bleed it so nothing happened. He folled your everyones advice and hey presto, it works like a dream - even better in fact

Just got to ge the bloody thing tidied up


The biggest pain is it needs a replacement boot due to the previous owner putting a dent in it, but sourcing parts like that in any colour let alone white is becoming a pain in the butt - there seems to be nothing - even on ebay!

Second thing that needs doing asap is the two rust patches over the rear arches. Once they are done it will look a ton better, thenfinally getting everything colour coded. At the minute it has the black bump strips and mirrors whihc on a white car looks pap!

Can the bump strips be easily painted whilston the car?


Any help on any of the above would be fantasic help to me - i know it might be the wrong bit of forum to post but i think I have built a following on this subject

Thanks guys - this is an awesome forum

Mark
 

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Finally fixed. When my bro fiitted the new part, he didnt bleed it so nothing happened. He folled your everyones advice and hey presto, it works like a dream - even better in fact

Just got to ge the bloody thing tidied up


The biggest pain is it needs a replacement boot due to the previous owner putting a dent in it, but sourcing parts like that in any colour let alone white is becoming a pain in the butt - there seems to be nothing - even on ebay!

Second thing that needs doing asap is the two rust patches over the rear arches. Once they are done it will look a ton better, thenfinally getting everything colour coded. At the minute it has the black bump strips and mirrors whihc on a white car looks pap!

Can the bump strips be easily painted whilston the car?


Any help on any of the above would be fantasic help to me - i know it might be the wrong bit of forum to post but i think I have built a following on this subject

Thanks guys - this is an awesome forum

Mark
less of the black wing mirrors and bump strips looking pap on a white car you ;) i looked at pics of white colour coded and mine and desided i liked mine more :p now down the the colour coding as the strips are slightly bobbled they will need to be sanded and primed before spraying, i'd remove them to do that lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
A fellow white ti owner lol finally, not seen one other than mine on here!

Used to everything being colour coded like on my ST.

Once i get it tidied up and get that boot lid replaced, want to make it look subtley more aggresive like it should do;)

My bro has some sort of subtle body kit extensions that have been moulded into the bumpers. looks really good. debating on something like that but first things first


thanks guys

mark
 

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I prefer black mirrors and strips on my white Ti too.

I had the slave cylinder problem too a while back, new set of seals and a fluid change / bleed and no problems.
 
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