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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #1
Right guys, the clutch has started to slip so clearly needs replacing... any ideas if this is a doable job at home, or should I reluctantly take this to a garage?? Also what other parts should I get done at the same time?

Many thanks in advance :)
 

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Did the one on my 25 in about 3 hours or so, although that was with a lightweight R65 box. I used my engine hoist to hold the gearbox and it made the whole job relatively easy.
 

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mg_tf
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Well it seems you may have had enough replies to enable you to make a decision, but to me, it all depends on whether this will be an on the drive/road job with very basic jack, a few spanners and limited experience, or facilities such as engine hoists, secure ramps etc.
Whether you choose to DIY it or not, I think another (more?) critical consideration is the quality of the parts to be used. In my book, I would only go with LUK clutch kits - some aftermarket kits can be of dubious quality. Buy quality at best prices.
Other things to get done while you are at it? Possibly renew the drive shaft oil seals at their point of entry into the gearbox.
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #6
Well it seems you may have had enough replies to enable you to make a decision, but to me, it all depends on whether this will be an on the drive/road job with very basic jack, a few spanners and limited experience, or facilities such as engine hoists, secure ramps etc.
Whether you choose to DIY it or not, I think another (more?) critical consideration is the quality of the parts to be used. In my book, I would only go with LUK clutch kits - some aftermarket kits can be of dubious quality. Buy quality at best prices.
Other things to get done while you are at it? Possibly renew the drive shaft oil seals at their point of entry into the gearbox.
Hi thank you - this is the problem - I do not have engine hoists or alike - it would just be me on my driveway sadly.. also yes I was thinking about things like drive shaft oil seals etc and any other parts that would possible need to be replaced. What do you think about the slave cylinder? My dad mentioned this should be renewed at the same time - is that correct? Also what make would you recommend for this? Also should I get 'mtf94' for the gearbox? Any ideas on best price/link etc?

Thank you kindly
 

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If its the PG1 box which i suspect it is you can get MTF94 from Eurocarparts quite cheap, or if time isn't an issue theres loads of places selling it on eBay. As for the gearbox seals, i have always purchased genuine Rover ones from Rimmer Bros, although decent quality ones like Payen or SKF should surfice.

Make sure you get a decent full clutch kit including the thrust bearing. Something like a LUK, Sachs or Valeo. Dont bother with cheap ones like Transmech or National, they are false economy and will only last a few years. I went down that route with a Transmech one, it lasted 18 months, and that was on a 105bhp Rover 25. I dread to think how long one would last on a car with a bit of power like a VVC model. You may be suprised if you look on Amazon. I got a full LUK clutch kit for mine delivered for under £40, the following day it was showing over £90 for the same item. Prices on Amazon go up and down like a yo-yo so its worth waiting a few days to see if it comes down any.

The stiff clutch could also be explained by the cable, although by past experience it usually becomes a lot lighter when you install a new clutch kit.
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Canuck. Thank you very much for the advice. I don't have a lot of money at the moment and so budget is a huge thing. Having said that obviously yes I do need to be aware that I should look for a decent replacement. I usually source my parts through XPart which are genuine parts of course. I will also look on Amazon for an LUK one then - was that the make of the one you ended up getting for £40? Thats a crazy price lol. SO would you happen to know what the part number is I would need for 'gearbox seals'? Also should I be looking to change the clutch cable at the same time, or is that not worth it?
 

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mg_tf
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As I said earlier, personally I would restrict my aftermarket search to LUK only. Amazon? Yes, of course this is one source, but Amazon sellers very often list on EBay, and this would be my first port of call - particularly since postage is usually included - which it isn’t always from Amazon.
If money is tight then my rule of thumb is to always buy the best at the most competitive price, otherwise you run the risk of spending again.
 

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Yes it was an LUK kit i got for just under £40 with free Amazon prime delivery. If you have an Amazon prime account postage can in a lot of cases be free. eBay is also an excellent source as mentioned above. Its all horse for courses when it comes to recommending brands. I only ever go for LUK, Valeo and Sachs, i usually end up with the one that is the best price from the three. I've never had a problem with any of those brands. Brands like Quinton Hazel, Borg and Beck and Comline are ones i wouldn't touch with a bargepole, but thats just my opinion, i'm sure there would be others here that would disagree and say they are OK. I also wouldn't touch a reconditioned one either which is usually what the cheaper Transmech and National ones usually end up being.

I know when i was looking for the kit for mine i came across a lot of AC Delco and Unipart kits on eBay that were well priced. They are well known brands and are probably quite good quality, but they are not brands of clutch kits i have ever used, but i would have considered them over other cheaper unknown brands.

I have no idea what the part number would be for the seals as my 25 has the crappy PSA derived R65 gearbox which is a totally different animal to the PG1 in your car. As for the cable, i would leave it for now and see what its like after the clutch has been done. Replacing it later on is a relatively easy job and if your on a budget there's no point in replacing it if it works OK. You could always remove it from the car and lubricate it which usually helps. Hanging it vertically and dripping oil on to the wire part will usually do the trick. It may take a while though for the oil to permeate all the way down the cable so may take you a few hours to get it all lubed up.

I hope with the advice you have had from every one here, that you will consider having a go at it yourself. It can be time consuming but definitely cheaper than paying a garage to do it. Make sure you get a clutch alignment tool as you wont succeed without one.
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #13
Clutch alignment took hey? Ok sure I shall do - may I ask if these are the same across the board, or a specific one for my job? Also should I be looking at purchasing an engine crane/mount? Or a gearbox one? I have read all sorts lol

Finally, why is your gearbox different from mine? I thought the Rover 25 was basically the same as the MGZR?
 

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mg_tf
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With respect to shortage of money, I would be considering the overall economics of buying yourself an engine hoist to save on labour charge - likewise a clutch alignment tool (often as a universal set).
I think another consideration is what experience of such things you actually have, since this -in conjunction with your lack of facilities - may render this to be a job which you will struggle to do properly, and above all, safely ( in caps) - on your back.
If your funds situation is likely to improve, why not delay this job, since as you say ‘........clutch is starting to slip’ and with gentle considerate driving it could last like this for months.
As a matter of some significance, have you checked to make sure you have some free play at the pedal and hence clutch actuating arm?
If you are determined to DIY this then it might be worth hiring a hoist, and even a clutch alignment tool?
 

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'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
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..............why is your gearbox different from mine? I thought the Rover 25 was basically the same as the MGZR?
Your ZR 160 will be fitted with the Honda designed PG1 gearbox, which was fitted to all the 1.8 litre petrol and 2.0 litre diesel ZRs and 25s (and 45s and ZSs for that matter).

The 25/ZR and 45/ZS with engines of 1.6 litre or smaller, were fitted with the Peugeot derived R65 box until 31st March 2003 (serial number 720772), and they were thereafter fitted with a Getrag-Ford IB5. (The R65 was manufactured at Midland Gears, previously part of Rover, which was retained by BMW as they were to use the R65 for the MINI. When BMW began sourcing a new gearbox for the MINI from their new factory at Hams Hall, production of the R65 ceased and Midland Gears was closed down, so MG Rover had to find another gearbox for the smaller engined 25/ZR and 45/ZS).

NB. Make sure you get the correct clutch kit for your car as the clutches are not the same for each of the gearbox types.
 

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I used a cheap £8 Silverline universal clutch alignment tool off eBay, did the job with no issues. For how often it gets used i wasn't going to spend a huge amount on it. As for the engine hoist, i only used one as i already had it.

It was one of my usual impulse buys from JTF home and garden. They listed the price incorrectly on one of their flyers so i took advantage of it. Got a 2.5 tonne engine hoist for £85. Its OK for small engines like the A series and K series its been used for in the past, but i doubt i would use it for anything bigger.

I
 

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mg_zr
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Discussion Starter #17
GREAT advice from all of you thank you so much!! I am going to wait until the spring to get this job done if I can. That way the weather will be better, and also my dad is thinking of digging out a 'pit' to use in his garage. This will make this and many other jobs so much easier won't it :)

Do any of you have any links in the meantime, for things like the clutch alignment tool etc so that I can start shopping and familiarising myself with bits and pieces. This also means that when it comes down to a sale etc, I can snap one up as opposed to having to pay the full price when I need something immediately :)

Thanks ever so much guys! Oh and on a separate note, am I right in thinking that basically, the PG1 gearbox is just a little more hard wearing than the R65 one, hence it went on slightly more powerful engines etc?
 

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The R65 was originally made by the French, Say no more :ROFLMAO:

The PG1 is more than a little more hard wearing when compared to the R65. Its like comparing a stick of celery against a steel rod. The only reason mine still has the R65 is because i cant be bothered to change it and also the PG1 gearbox is little hard to come by in Canada.
 

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My advice is it can be done on the drive without an engine winch. It is not an easy job, so you will need to be ok with car maintenance to do it and have tools, jacks and stands. If you are being thorough, leave a weekend to do it. I know some say it can be done in ’3 hours’, but unless you are used to it and well equipped, you are likely to take many times that.

You don’t really need a clutch alignment tool as there’s lots of stuff that can be used instead. Use a good clutch kit and thrust bearing as you don’t want to repeat. Be thorough and replace drive shafts seals, any split cv gaiters, oil etc as it’s the best time to do it.

Here‘s a picture diary of an R65 change (including clutch) I did. A PG1 clutch change will be similar, but not identical. ie. It has a different shifter mech etc.

 

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The R65 was originally made by the French, Say no more :ROFLMAO:

The PG1 is more than a little more hard wearing when compared to the R65. Its like comparing a stick of celery against a steel rod. The only reason mine still has the R65 is because i cant be bothered to change it and also the PG1 gearbox is little hard to come by in Canada.
I agree, the R65 is not a very hard wearing box! Celery? I heard it was made of cheese... ;)
 
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