MG-Rover.org Forums banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I hope someone can help. My TF has been sitting for a couple of months with the occasional turn of the key to keep the engine turning over. 2 weeks ago it failed to start although the engine did turn over. Tried again the next night and the car was dead, didn't even want to turn over. I took the battery out and charged it over the course of a couple of days (slow trickle) and the car still won't even turn over. The engine is not even trying to start. When I turn the key I get all the electrics coming on (dash lights, mirrors etc) but the engine is still not trying to turn. Could it be that the battery is charged enough to work the electrics but not enough to ignite the starter? I believe TF's need quite a bit of a charge to get them going. Has anyone else out there had this problem and what was the resolution? Could it be the starter / the battery / the immobiliser???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,453 Posts
Check your earth points, but yes, my first call would be to check all connectors around the starter, and the black lead from the starter to battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,502 Posts
When you turn the key to start it,do the lights dim?
Maybe try putting the headlights on and turn the Key. If they do dim then at least you know the starting circuit is working.
Can you hear a click when you try starting? If not then no power is getting to the solenoid.

Get the battery checked - it may be just old and tired.
(You should read about 13.4 volts across the battery terminals but voltage alone is sometimes not enough of an indicator )

Hope this helps
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,317 Posts
What type of charger did you use? If it was a battery conditioner (very slow charge, then discharge), then a decent overnight charge with a standard charger may be all that is required.

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
793 Posts
Hope you get it sorted Martha.

Broke down myself tonight and had to wait an hour for the breakdown guy to get to me, turned out to be a dead battery and I now need to get a replacement one tomorrow.. Could of been worse I suppose...:minxy:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,819 Posts
Have you tried a bump start? It would be useful to know if you can start the car that way.

It would rule out the immobiliser.

TFs generally don't need too much to spin them over, but if you're not even getting a click from the solenoid, then check the lucar connector to the starter motor, whether the battery connections are clean and tight. Where the battery earth lead attaches to the body and the engine earth (runs from the engine to the bulkhead behind the engine).

If any of these are loose, it can mean that not enough current can flow to the starter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hello, is there anyone still linked into this thread?
If so, I have just had the save thing happen to me. Parked up in shop car park, when I came back the engine wouldn't turn over. Checked the connection on the starter which seemed right and clean. I checked the fuse as best I could by the roadside still nothing. Got some lads to give me a push start, which it did with ease. Then it spluttered at the lights and the engine stopped, I turned the key and it turned over on the key without a problem.
It has been playing up a little of late with the tank vacuuming when I undone the filler cap, but that's another issue! (Can anyone advise on that?). Anyway, I put a gallon of petrol in which I had with me, in case the fuel gauge wasn't working correctly. As it was near empty and I haven't used the car for about three years. Anyway, I got back in the car and it low and behold it wouldn't turn over, so had to get the missus out with the LR Discovery. A quick snatch later and we were off again! I will check if there is any power getting to the solenoid when I minute. Any ideas chaps (or chapeses)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,904 Posts
As mentioned in earlier posts, spade connector to starter motor is the usual issue with not starting. It can look as clean as a whistle but if its not making a good contact it won't start...if you've an F it is easy to get your hand down to it from the boot, a quick wiggle of the cable usually works, if you've a TF its a slightly tighter fit to get your hand down there but it still relatively easy to get to the spade connector to give a wiggle....I know from experience with my F and TF I use daily, although when I had my F apart recently I did squeeze the spade connector together more so it no longer an issue on my F
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Yes, it's an F and you are right, you can get down to it nicely. There is a yellow Lucar terminal on it that looks as good as new and it was tight taking it off. So not sure what it is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,904 Posts
Yes, it's an F and you are right, you can get down to it nicely. There is a yellow Lucar terminal on it that looks as good as new and it was tight taking it off. So not sure what it is.
I've had issues in the past when on own of no matter how much I wiggle the spade connector then going back and turning the key it didn't work, but when I was able to get someone to turn the key when wiggling it it would start straight away...would think that one option to try before looking to see if it maybe something else
 

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
1,614 Posts
I had this problem - not on an F/TF, but on a Peugeot 206. Sometimes the starter wouldn't turn over. Sometimes if I made enough tries starting it, it would eventually respond but often no matter how many times I tried, the starter motor wouldn't respond.
Turned out to be worn carbon brushes in the starter motor. They were so worn (and the commutator was a bit blackened) that they didn't have enough pressure on them to make a good contact especially in some spots on the starter commutator, so it was pot luck each time I started the engine whether the starter motor would end up with 'good' spots on the commutator touching the brushes or 'bad' spots.
Different make of car of course but one to bear in mind. Hitting the starter motor with a mallet is one possible way to shake the brushes into a better position but the starter isn't easy access on an F.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Good point, it does look like it has had a replacement starter at some point. But you never can tell by looks of things alone can you! We do rebuild our starters, so maybe I will check that out if I don't find out that it is something obvious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Hi if its an older F with original Lucas / magneti marelli throw it away and fit a Bosch starter much better design. I had a similar problem and the difference in the starter motors just makes it work.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,317 Posts
Just because something is newer or a different brand or design, doesn't necessarily make it better...

Be methodical and check/test/diagnose what you have before throwing it in the bin.
 

·
Registered
'06 MG ZR +120 (HQM) '04 MG ZR 105 (IAB)
Joined
·
9,434 Posts
^^^^^^^Absolutely agree with that - British Leyland/Austin Rover Group used Magnetti Marelli starters and alternators for years without them having any undue problems. I never had any problems with MM starter motors on any BL, Austin Rover or Rover Group era cars that I have owned. By contrast, every MG Rover era car that I have owned has needed its Bosch starter motor or its Bosch alternator replacing/repairing unexpectedly early in its life.

From what you describe about the engine cutting out when stood at traffic lights, I would think it more likely there is a wiring/electrical fault, or possibly a nearly dead battery (quite possible if it has been stood and discharged for 3 years?) Three year old petrol is perhaps not going to help smooth running, but that won't have any bearing on the non-operation of the starter.

It has been playing up a little of late with the tank vacuuming when I undone the filler cap, but that's another issue! (Can anyone advise on that?).
Some negative pressure in the fuel tank is normal, and gives rise to a short hiss of air being sucked in when the cap is removed. No hiss of air/no slight vacuum would indicate a probable damaged/deteriorated seal on the filler cap.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top