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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Folks,

Just had a major upgrade to my engine, New Payen multi layer gasket new high tensile stretch bolts and new oil rail, stainless steel water pipes, basically changed everything! The problem is its using water, the oil is spotless and the engine is running perfectly.

I only had the car back on Thursday so disappointed to say the least, I thought at first it might be an air lock but I have done about 30 miles and topped the tank up twice, its looking a bit greasy too, I put that down to old water. I'm sure the garage will be okay about it they do all my van work, but I just thought someone might have had the same problem and found something else other than a failed HG again, the garage checked the liner heights and said they were all good.
I have spent a lot of time and money getting the best parts I can find, lots of work done. including a new MOT it looks stunning, but might as well be a paper weight if its gone again.
Thanks,
Mark
 

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Get the car back to them asap because there are a lot of things it could be. The first thing that any MG tech will check is the coolant cap and relief pressure . Ive known MG Solutions for years now and that where he starts.
There are 3 bleed valves-If you've had the pipes replaced, then bleeding the 2 matrix units isn't a 5-minute job.
Put a piece of clean paper of the wife's best linen under the car overnight , after the cars been run-to see if there is a leak.
It is entirely possible that the HG has not worked and the head could need a skim or the block toast because of liners or previous neglect. But in my Experience it tends to be something simple like the water-pump, etc.
 

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It may take time for the level to settle, depending on how thoroughly it’s been bled. For example, there may be air in the pipes or heater that is replaced by coolant in use. However, if it is a leak, it could be a lot of things. I’d see if it settles, and if not take it back to the garage it was repaired at.
 

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In the Garage
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It is a good point about the coolant may just be settling, when my TF was newish I had it maintained by an ex-MGR dealer and they would use the vacuum fill method to refill the system, they would always put a small bottle of coolant in the boot so that it could be topped up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Guys, Panic over, I took it for another small run, and it was fine so I drove to a show 40 miles away, it must have had a bit of air, the coolant is now steady, after 80 miles no top up required, car is running perfectly.

I should have realised with the rad in the front there was potential for air to get in, I had new stainless coolant pipes the same time, sorry to have jumped to the wrong conclusion but when you've just spent so much time and effort it hits home.

Thanks for your comments,

Mark
 

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That is good news, however if the coolant cap wasn’t changed then do get a new one or better still get two and keep one in the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for the tips, I have ordered a new cap, been out a few times now with no issues,

Regards,
Mark
 

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Hi Folks,

Just had a major upgrade to my engine, New Payen multi layer gasket new high tensile stretch bolts and new oil rail, stainless steel water pipes, basically changed everything! The problem is its using water, the oil is spotless and the engine is running perfectly.

I only had the car back on Thursday so disappointed to say the least, I thought at first it might be an air lock but I have done about 30 miles and topped the tank up twice, its looking a bit greasy too, I put that down to old water. I'm sure the garage will be okay about it they do all my van work, but I just thought someone might have had the same problem and found something else other than a failed HG again, the garage checked the liner heights and said they were all good.
I have spent a lot of time and money getting the best parts I can find, lots of work done. including a new MOT it looks stunning, but might as well be a paper weight if its gone again.
Thanks,
Mark
the big design fault of the mgf, is there is not enough metal in the block/ one is asking the gaskett to preform a miracle of sealing; depending on5 mm of liner top flange "with nothing only water underneath the gaskett"/ they will al;ways be a disaster waiting to happen/ drive em easy chech them often
 

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the big design fault of the mgf, is there is not enough metal in the block/ one is asking the gaskett to preform a miracle of sealing; depending on5 mm of liner top flange "with nothing only water underneath the gaskett"/ they will al;ways be a disaster waiting to happen/ drive em easy chech them often
Compared to what other engines of the same era?

Personally, I think the design is genius.
 

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Compared to what other engines of the same era?

Personally, I think the design is genius.
Compared to what other engines of the same era?

Personally, I think the design is genius.
Compared to what other engines of the same era?

Personally, I think the design is genius.
renault were able to design a wet liner engine/ genius designs dont end up in the crusher plant / 100% design fault!! 100% human error in learning how to avoid it becoming a expensiv regular problem
 

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renault were able to design a wet liner engine/ genius designs dont end up in the crusher plant / 100% design fault!! 100% human error in learning how to avoid it becoming a expensiv regular problem
Your generalisations are difficult to fathom.

Anyway, each to their own...
 

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Agreed - gives the appearance of having little or no real knowledge of the engine, and from the three posts made so far, looks as though he has merely come to troll.

Of course, the original wet liner design of the K series is pretty robust and never seemed to suffer any great degree of premature HGF. It was only with the redesign to accommodate the larger capacity 1.6 and 1.8 and change to a damp liner design that the problems started - mostly due to the detrimental effect the larger liners had on coolant flow, with resultant localised overheating degrading the elastomer beading on the gasket.

Renault had the massive advantage of being propped up by French government ownership ;) Whilst the British taxpayer paid for the development of the original 1.1 and 1.4 K series, by the time of the redesign Rover did not have access to any UK government support. By the time the HGF problems became apparent, the UK had a government that appeared to actively want the company dead and gone.
 

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Totally agree with Man in the car but excuses are not enough when you are a consumer. The important thing is that the engine appears to have come good with the N series and there are many reports of the older engines coming good where changes can be retrofitted (gaskets, strengthened oil ladder, steel instead of plastic head locators......).

On Renault's, my brother-in-law(a Swiss-lawyer who is totally disinterested in cars) still drives around in a 230K km Renault Laguna. The body style and paint are not one Renault would recognize as his wife keeps smashing it up (it has different shades and textures of black and some of the panels are a unique shape) but its engine has been bullet-proof. However, the interior is too plastic and looks very poor.

Listen to some of the stories on BMW-badged products out of the US..... It would put you off buying BMW forever (including Minis).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well might as well update you on what has happened, started using water again, lots of it!, but this time I found the problem, one of the water pump studs had sheered off and water was leaking from the pump, took it back to the garage, they have taken the broken stud out and I get the car back on Monday, they were very apologetic and think it must have snapped after it was used, whatever the reason I'm just happy to know the car will be back soon.

On the discussion, I hope our Irish friend is being a bit pessimistic, I only bought this kit due to its success rate, as I understand it the N series have a very good record and its basically the same engine.
This was a drive it day with the Swansea Historic Vehicle Register, mine is the Royal Blue TF.
136716
 

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To be honest, I would be a bit concerned to receive that news as:
  • the water pump is bolted on, it’s not retained by nuts on studs. Hopefully, this is just your interpretation of what they said to you though.
  • (I hope I’m wrong, but), I would be worried about what else they might have got wrong, if they managed to shear off a water pump retaining bolt - then to make it worse, they didn’t tell you...

Hopefully, my fears are all misplaced though and once they have redone the work, everything stays well for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yup my bad its bolted on, this garage has done a lot of work on my van and they are very good, I think it was just over tight and sheered off after the engine got hot, they did apologise and that's fair enough, its was the bolt just behind the cross brace so its the hardest one to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got the car back, its all good, took it for a good run and it performed well, no loss of coolant and clean oil.
 

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Got the car back, its all good, took it for a good run and it performed well, no loss of coolant and clean oil.
Great news Mark - enjoy your car!
 

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Well might as well update you on what has happened, started using water again, lots of it!, but this time I found the problem, one of the water pump studs had sheered off and water was leaking from the pump, took it back to the garage, they have taken the broken stud out and I get the car back on Monday, they were very apologetic and think it must have snapped after it was used, whatever the reason I'm just happy to know the car will be back soon.

On the discussion, I hope our Irish friend is being a bit pessimistic, I only bought this kit due to its success rate, as I understand it the N series have a very good record and its basically the same engine.
This was a drive it day with the Swansea Historic Vehicle Register, mine is the Royal Blue TF. View attachment 136716
Very nice cars. Presumably they were parked by women?
 
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