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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI, CAN ANYONE HLEP ME ON THE REAR SHOCKS , I NEED TO REPLACE THEM AND WAS WONDERING HOW HARD THE JOB IS, AS THERE ARE SPRINGS INVOLVED TOO,
ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
 

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MGF's x 5 MGTF's x 6, Rover 620Ti & Cortina Mk3
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If your buying just the dampers you will need some spring compressors to compress the springs to remove the dampers, however; most of the time you tend to see TF shocks for sale complete with the springs. Basically if bought complete its just undoing the bolts on the tops and bottoms.

To remove the shocks is pretty straight forward, jack up the rear of the car, make safe with axle stands, remove wheels, wire brush lower shock bolts on the thread sticking out of nut and oil, wire brush top shock above nut, clear any crud out of the top of the strut shaft so you can get the allen key into the hole put some oil on the thread and undo. shocks should just drop off.

If you've no spring compressors you can get away with heavy duty cable ties to dismantle the shocks but I wouldn't really recommend it if you've never dismantled a shock before. it would be better to take the old shocks to a local garage with the new dampers and ask them to change the springs, would probably be done cheaper than having to buy some spring compressors you may never use again.
 

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'10 TF135 Style
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Just a thought...I found that if you buy (coil-overs) with springs already attached it's only slightly more expensive but you get new springs - and it's all correctly set-up with new rubber bushes etc too
 

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I have had real issue with the top nuts seizing in place, even an impact wrench wouldn’t move it. I would try and loosen these before jacking the car up. I also had problems separating the top arm from the shock, even with both arm and shock removed from the car it still took a lot of effort to separate the two.

You may not need to use spring compressors; the official workshop manual doesn’t mention them and I didn’t need to use them.

It would be a good idea to buy some new rubber mounts, these tend to become squished and are not expensive.

It is advisable to buy new bottom shock bolts of at least OEM quality, if you do reuse the bolts inspect for any witness marks and that the bolt is still straight. If the upper arm is the original MGR unit where the bolt screws into a tapped hole it is advisable to clean the thread with an M12 tap.
 

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Starlight Silver MG TF 135
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I heartily agree with all of Chris T's comments above. In particular:
It is advisable to buy new bottom shock bolts of at least OEM quality, if you do reuse the bolts inspect for any witness marks and that the bolt is still straight. If the upper arm is the original MGR unit where the bolt screws into a tapped hole it is advisable to clean the thread with an M12 tap.
My reasoning is that this bolt:
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Light Product

is taking ALL of the spring and damper loads. I understand that they have been known to shear, so if you needed to apply mega torque to extract either bolt, or have any doubts about corrosion or signs of damage, replacement now would be very wise!
 

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mg_tf
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ChrisT is spot on with his suggestions, the price of new rubber mounts are by no means breath drawing and make such a difference. I also never needed spring compressors when I did my rear suspension units, but they were a must on the front ones. Again, the bottom shock bolt is well worth replacing if you are going to the trouble of working on the units. I had my sub frame out when I did mine last year and have to say those top nuts were even then very testing.
 

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I heartily agree with all of Chris T's comments above. In particular:

My reasoning is that this bolt: View attachment 138018
is taking ALL of the spring and damper loads. I understand that they have been known to shear, so if you needed to apply mega torque to extract either bolt, or have any doubts about corrosion or signs of damage, replacement now would be very wise!
Hell that's clean! Does it ever go out on the road??
 

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Starlight Silver MG TF 135
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Yes, it certainly does get out on the road: 166 mile round-trip to Lifton Fields to MGCC
Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Motor vehicle

drive-it-day on 24th (shame about the weather, but we DID have one Sunbeam!)::giggle:

Also a lovely run across Exmoor Barnstaple-Simonsbath-Exford-Raeligh's Cross-Bishop's Lydeard, which I posted somewhere on this site. I DO avoid wet weather TBH, and Bennett had a VERY sheltered life before I bought it!
 

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Yes, it certainly does get out on the road: 166 mile round-trip to Lifton Fields to MGCC View attachment 138021
drive-it-day on 24th (shame about the weather, but we DID have one Sunbeam!)::giggle:

Also a lovely run across Exmoor Barnstaple-Simonsbath-Exford-Raeligh's Cross-Bishop's Lydeard, which I posted somewhere on this site. I DO avoid wet weather TBH, and Bennett had a VERY sheltered life before I bought it!
Good, I was just amazed at how clean it was. I also try to avoid taking my 97 F out in wet weather, but its not as clean as that underneath. Well done. Regards D4KGP.
 
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