MG-Rover.org Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
cityrover
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I am hoping more experienced owners may be able to help me out.

I have owned my 2000 MGF for five years, any problems in the past have been resolved by charging the car battery overnight and has started first time.

The car has been off the road for a couple of months, so when I tried the remote yesterday to open the car nothing happened.

First thought was the battery in the remote needed replacing, so replaced the battery in the remote - still does not open the door!

Then tried the key which opened the central locking on both doors, but when key put in the ignition,no fuel pump noise or engine turning over,
just the sound continuous bleeping and a solid red light on the instrument panel - so is the alarm still on?

Having read the owners handbook and used the key access code to reset the engine immobilization override with the key, this should have disabled
the alarm,but when I tried to start the car the same thing happened - same problem.

So to recap, new battery in remote, fully charged car battery, car will not start.

Has anyone ever had this problem and resolved it or can suggest a fix or can you disarm the alarm another way?

I hope the above is understandable.

Any help appreciated -Thanks
 

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
427 Posts
Paul, when you recharged the battery was it still connected in the car? If so try disconnecting the battery for a short period, a few minutes should be sufficient but to be safe try 30 minutes. Then reconnect the battery and try again. There seems to be an issue whereby if the battery goes flat, the gradual fall of the voltage confuses the ECU, the small remaining voltage in the battery seems to be enough to keep the ECU running but in a confused state. By disconnecting the battery completely it allows the ECU to do a full reboot. A friend recently had a similar issue which he resolved by pulling the fuse that powers the ECU. No guarantees but it’s simple to try.
 

·
Registered
cityrover
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Paul, when you recharged the battery was it still connected in the car? If so try disconnecting the battery for a short period, a few minutes should be sufficient but to be safe try 30 minutes. Then reconnect the battery and try again. There seems to be an issue whereby if the battery goes flat, the gradual fall of the voltage confuses the ECU, the small remaining voltage in the battery seems to be enough to keep the ECU running but in a confused state. By disconnecting the battery completely it allows the ECU to do a full reboot. A friend recently had a similar issue which he resolved by pulling the fuse that powers the ECU. No guarantees but it’s simple to try.
Thanks for the reply, yes it was still connected.
Car is at my parents so before I left it there yesterday I did disconnect the battery just in case it would make any difference.
Going down there tomorrow, will let you know what happens.
 

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
1,554 Posts
I concur with mgbob, when I was renovating my TF and not being driven I let the battery completely discharge many times and I quite often had weird problems with the central locking and immobiliser when I recharged the battery. I can only imagine the ECU doesn't have a very good power supervisory circuit and gets corrupted if the battery voltage passes through its minimum working voltage ('brown-out') very slowly - probably goes bonkers turning on and off and corrupting memory bits etc.
However I didn't find that I could guarantee that simply recharging the battery then reconnecting the battery lead would solve this ECU amnesia first time. It could take a couple of dozen disconnect/reconnect attempts, very frustrating. That was for a 2004 TF though, I'm not sure if the MGF has exactly the same ECU. In the end I didn't wait half an hour between battery reconnection attempts as that would take forever. About 15 seconds seemed enough but try the half-hour delay first of all anyway.
 

·
Registered
cityrover
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I concur with mgbob, when I was renovating my TF and not being driven I let the battery completely discharge many times and I quite often had weird problems with the central locking and immobiliser when I recharged the battery. I can only imagine the ECU doesn't have a very good power supervisory circuit and gets corrupted if the battery voltage passes through its minimum working voltage ('brown-out') very slowly - probably goes bonkers turning on and off and corrupting memory bits etc.
However I didn't find that I could guarantee that simply recharging the battery then reconnecting the battery lead would solve this ECU amnesia first time. It could take a couple of dozen disconnect/reconnect attempts, very frustrating. That was for a 2004 TF though, I'm not sure if the MGF has exactly the same ECU. In the end I didn't wait half an hour between battery reconnection attempts as that would take forever. About 15 seconds seemed enough but try the half-hour delay first of all anyway.
Are you saying that you had the same symptoms as me and that after several dozen disconnect/reconnect attempts in the same period this solved the problem?

Latest on the car is as follows, car battery reconnected after 24 hours still have the same symptoms.
Key fob still not operating the doors, Key access code reset but alarm still not deactivated, when key turned on in ignition continuous bleeping and solid red light on instrument
panel.
Connected cheap OBD2 scanner to port in car, will not link.
Pulled out ECU fuse will battery connected, no joy.

Does anyone have any more thoughts?
 

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
1,554 Posts
Yes, my car would not start and I also had central locking problems after dead battery incidents. I tried all the usual business of clicking on the keyfob umpteen times to try and resync it. I also tried entering the emergency code via the key in the driver's door. They didn't work. However, my car is a 2004 TF with the oval Pektron keyfob so I have no idea how that relates to an F.

Like I said, when my ECU was afflicted with amnesia, simply connecting a charged battery to it usually didn't usually solve the problem first time. I had to disconnect/reconnect the battery umpteen times to get a good 'boot-up'. I wish I could remember more about it now but I believe I could hear something subtle from the passenger compartment/dash when a battery connection attempt finally worked in restoring the ECU to full function - I didn't need to try and start it each time. From memory, it took something like 30 battery connect/disconnect attempts on the worst occasion to get things working again. If you figure 15 seconds wait after disconnecting and 5 seconds fiddling around reconnecting and listening each time that's about 10 minutes in total of battery connects/disconnects and counting to 15 *and swearing). Pain in the proverbial.

I can't guarantee it'll work for you but although it feels like a long ten minutes when you're doing it, that's not actually much time in the grand scheme of things and that was only on the worst occasion - usually it booted up after far fewer attempts. I also seem to recall on the 'ten minute' occasion it actually booted once before attempt #30 but I was so into the routine at that point that I stupidly disconnected the battery immediately for the next attempt when I shouldn't have ;0)
 

·
Registered
cityrover
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Yes, my car would not start and I also had central locking problems after dead battery incidents. I tried all the usual business of clicking on the keyfob umpteen times to try and resync it. I also tried entering the emergency code via the key in the driver's door. They didn't work. However, my car is a 2004 TF with the oval Pektron keyfob so I have no idea how that relates to an F.

Like I said, when my ECU was afflicted with amnesia, simply connecting a charged battery to it usually didn't usually solve the problem first time. I had to disconnect/reconnect the battery umpteen times to get a good 'boot-up'. I wish I could remember more about it now but I believe I could hear something subtle from the passenger compartment/dash when a battery connection attempt finally worked in restoring the ECU to full function - I didn't need to try and start it each time. From memory, it took something like 30 battery connect/disconnect attempts on the worst occasion to get things working again. If you figure 15 seconds wait after disconnecting and 5 seconds fiddling around reconnecting and listening each time that's about 10 minutes in total of battery connects/disconnects and counting to 15 *and swearing). Pain in the proverbial.

I can't guarantee it'll work for you but although it feels like a long ten minutes when you're doing it, that's not actually much time in the grand scheme of things and that was only on the worst occasion - usually it booted up after far fewer attempts. I also seem to recall on the 'ten minute' occasion it actually booted once before attempt #30 but I was so into the routine at that point that I stupidly disconnected the battery immediately for the next attempt when I shouldn't have ;0)
Thanks nocturneblue, will give it a go tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
1,554 Posts
I think the noise that I could hear coming from the passenger compartment that told me when the ECU had booted up correctly was the alarm system making the right noise (bleep?), but I can't recall details. You can certainly try starting it after each connection attempt instead. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
cityrover
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Good news - Problem solved
First of all thanks for the replies.
The problem turned out to be the fob, the battery carrier were it is soldered to the PCB was cracked in one position,soldered it again and it worked.
What I have found out is that without the fob working, no one will ever be able to start my car.
Hope this helps someone in the future.
 

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
427 Posts
Thanks for the update. You should be able to use the EKA in this situation, I believe you tried this without success, I have read that a number of cars left the factory with the EKA 1 digit out, if you can find someone with a pscan you can read and reset the EKA.
 

·
Registered
mg_tf
Joined
·
1,554 Posts
Well spotted! Rereading your original post I finally realised you had said your alarm was working - when I had my ECU problems due to flat batteries I think my alarm was not coming on - hence the sound I could hear when I 'rebooted' the ECU successfully with a good battery connection was probably the alarm coming up and making a dashboard bleep noise. So, I should have spotted that your symptoms were slightly different to the ones I had. Glad you got it fixed anyway.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top